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Posted by
/r/DIY Overlord
5 days ago
Stickied postModerator of r/DIY

General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, how to get started on a project, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between. There ar


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Posted by
PM me penguin pics
1 day ago
Stickied post

Hello /r/DIY,

We are excited to announce that we will be having our next AMA in just about two and a half weeks.

Travis Larson will be joining us on July 10th at 11 AM EST.

For those who are unaware of who Travis is you can find out more about him here.

Please look for the official AMA thread on July 10th to ask your questions!


(p.s haven't forgotten about the survey results I'm just busy pls don't hate me I love you all thank you)


I'm making a dog bowl holder out of black metal piping. I have 4 legs with t pipes and a 4" double threaded pipe connecting the short distance between the 2 legs ends. However the 4" pipe piece that i'm trying to screw into the 2 T's, only screws into 1 t pipe, the other side doesn't seem to be threaded correctly or something. I have about 8 different double threaded pipe pieces and none of them work so it's not the individual piece. The double sided threading makes no sense if you can't actually use if for that purpose so I'm must be missing something. HELP?


Pics here:

I live in an apartment in NYC in Chinatown (you get what you pay for....) - my landlord definitely went the cheap route when installing the clothing rod in my closet as he did for everything else in my apartment -_-

I just noticed today that the wood beam the rod is attached to (see pics) is cracking and looks like it is about to snap. Does anyone know how I would go about fixing this or who I should contact to fix this (would it just be a handyman?). I don't want to get my landlord involved because every time I ask him to fix something he gets his handyman to come over and its always a shoddy job.

I am partly to blame - I have a LOT of clothes stuffed in my closet hanging off the rod.. i would say at least 60/70 things in there usually. I took mostly everything out of the closet once I saw the crack in the wood...would like to get the closet fixed and everything back in there asap !

Appreciate any and all advice! Thank you.


I built myself a nice little work table a while back, but am looking to make it a little more fun and add some lights around the edge, but I'm not sure what the best way to protect them after install. And since it's a work table, I'm bound to be dropping things on it, so I don't want something that will easily break or pop out.

I'm thinking of using a router to cut the channel for the lights, then after running the lighting through the channels, I'm not sure how to add a protective cover that's durable. Do I just fill the entire gap with epoxy then sand it to the same level as the table?
I plan to run the power from underneath, and up through a hole in the channel so the top of the workspace is completely flat.

Black is table edge, blue is where I want the lights to be.


And it appears I was unsuccessful. It's an old Sears Craftsman model, was in the house when we bought it and no remote was passed on to us. It dates from some time in the mimd 80s I believe. I tried researching online and my research led me to a Liftmaster 61LMC remomte. The model number of the overhead opener is 139.186006. I matched up the dip switches on both and the remote does nothing. You can see some images here of the opener and remote:

Anyone have any idea what I might be doing wrong? Is the remote completely wrong for that model, or is there a set dip switch setting built in to the machine that has been lost? Is there something else you need to do before duplicating the dip switches? There doesn't seem to be a learn button on the unit. Tried getting information online from Sears or Craftsman but they were no use at all. Thanks in advance for any help.


I’m looking at building a 4 metre by 8 metre patio in our garden. Some places I have researched say to compact base layer then to compact sand on top, some say not to compact sand.

My approach is going to be: Pull up weeds/ other crap, dig half foot down and then lay 10 inches of base material, compact and leave for a 24hrs then lay sand and lightly compact with boards. Following day I will add patio layer with concrete.

Does this sound like a proper approach to those who have any knowledge in this area?


Our downstairs neighbour used to smoke and it would come up into our unit via, what we thought, was the bathroom extractor fan. We asked him to smoke outside, which he graciously does now, but we've still got the issue. Hold tight, long post coming up!

Here's what I've done so far:

Silicon sealed every little nook and cranny I could find. All the baseboards are sealed top and bottom as well as any seams.

Same goes for the door frame.

Same goes for the light switch and plug.

I sprayed Killz inside the housing for the extractor fan, down into the pipe as much as I could and all over where the fan is located.

I replaced the fan motor and heavily cleaned the whole fan assembly.

I ripped out the old baseboards and put new ones in, painted with Killz then painted normal paint over the top.

Repainted the walls and ceiling.

Things I've not done:

Replace the bathroom cabinet/sink combo Replace the toilet. Replace the surface.

After all this I still have the gross smoky smell. It's worse when it's hot (heatwave at the moment) and definitley worse when I close the door, then turn the fan on.

I'm thinking it's negative pressure caused by the fan and it's pulling it in from somewhere but I can't think where. Could it just have soaked into the drywall and it's somehow just pulling the smell out of that?


Hi guys. We have an old attic bedroom that rarely ever gets used. However we are expecting some visitirs this summer, and the house won't have enough rooms for all of them.

I was thinking of remodeling the old bedroom a bit, just to make it a bit friendlier and more cosy. Right now it has a wall that's basically exposed OSB boards. It's hard to find any information on this online...but is it possible to put wallpaper over an OSB board?


Hey everyone. While there are plenty of amazing before/after photos and projects on here, I wanted to add my own amateur project since I love coming on here and reading everyone's different experiences and seeing different projects. Here's my material list along with my experience. Pics, kind of


  • 126 basic red pavers (~$130)

  • 2 yards of crush and run (~$100 with delivery; no one I know has a truck/trailer)

  • 1 yard of sand (~$50)

  • Weed blocker (~$35)

  • Tamper (~$25)

  • Edging (~$35)

Since we moved into the house, I've been wanting to redo part of the back "patio". It was just a cleared ground in a circular shape with rocks covering it and brick kind of outlining it. It looked like shit.

After doing a little research, I decided to add a 9x14 paver patio section to our concrete patio to clean it up and make it more inviting. I wanted to do it as right as possible (emphasis on as possible) that way it'd be something to look forward to for years to come.

I started out by marking out the area with stakes and measuring how far I would need to dig to make it level. This varied from almost 7 inches to over a foot at the elevated portions which sucked. I dug the whole area out over the course of two days; this would've gone faster except the area was littered with roots from a bush. Fuck roots. Also, it rained a good amount during this process.

After tamping the bottom and laying weed blocker, it was time to add the base layer which I made 4 inches deep. I would recommend renting a compactor; I used a hand tamper which wasn't effective, slow, and definitely tiring. While compacted decently enough, it wasn't as level as I would've liked, but I didn't want to put the extra time and effort to make it more level. I hoped this wouldn't completely come back to bite me.

After adding another layer of weed blocker, I added about an inch of sand. I say about because remember how my base wasn't perfectly level? Well, this reflected when leveling the sand and made using a screed rail ineffective. I pushed forward with maximum effort (no joke) and instead leveled small sections of sand at a time until I finished the whole area (note, a compactor would've been nice here too).

As I was doing the above, I was adding pavers and doing more fine-tuned leveling since I'm a sucker for ineffective ways of doing things. After it passed my minimum acceptance standards, I brushed sand into the cracks (this is still an ongoing process) and hoped it was worth the effort.

While I still have to clean up the edges, I've spent about 24 hours working on this and did the bulk of the work in a weekend. Considering how much money I think I saved in the end, I feel it was worth it (hopefully). Side note, it drains really well which was my biggest worry about it not being a perfect grade.

Thanks for reading!


I live in an attached house and share a driveway with neighbors that we are not on the best terms with. The driveway is cracked, old and poorly pitched but if neighbors won't agree to it being redone my only option is to try to stop water from the interior. Whenever it rains the wall on the driveway side leaks water, there are tiny cracks all along it and that side of the basement gets a puddle/damp that takes several days to dry out again. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix or at least reduce leaks? Thanks in advance!


I have a 134 square-meter sheet metal wall (Not galvanized) in my home that I want to obtain a specific "untouched natual matt finish" look for

Please see pic.

Last guy who started working left these two square samples. One is darker, both look untouched and uncoated bare metal, but it is not galvanized and prone to rust! Anyway he's not in reach now so...

Applications I can already eliminate based on research had been done but did not output desired result:

Buffing, Laquer, Paint, Oxid stain.

Whats your thoughts?


Help request! I screwed up installing this mosaic tile backsplash and didn’t leave room for a border tile because I thought I could simply caulk it, but I really don’t like the way it looks. At the time I didn’t know about the edge pieces that could go on it either so I didn’t include those. My question - how should I clean up the edges of this tile? Do I just need to get the edging and force it behind the tile? Or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance!


So, we had a “once in 10 year rain storm”. I have about 1/2” of water in the basement. I think it is coming through the cracks in the floor and around where the foundation meets the wall.

It seems to have slowed or stopped. But returns when it is shopvac’d.

What is the easiest was to get rid of the water once the pressure subsides. And how do I know when that is?



I have two ceiling fans in my house and would like to change the switches. The old switches for the lights are at least 20 years old so not made for LEDs. Both fans are controlled at seperate locations and that is fine. The switches are in a two-gang junction box, so one seperate switch for fan and another seperate switch for the lights.

  1. Can a standard dimmer switch be used as long as the watts rating is high enough? This switch only controls the lights not the fan motor. The lights being used are four dimmable LEDs per fan unit.

  2. Will a fan speed control switch work with an older 3 speed fan motor? If not will a standard wall switch work or is there a special switch for ceiling fans? These fans are in a room addition with high ceilings so it would be nice to be able to control the fan speed from the wall.


Hi r/diy! So I'm building my mancave and at the end of the hallway into the room there is about a 1.5" drop in the concrete. It looks like they were poured at different times; I'm not really sure what the purpose is.

I have a few ideas -

  1. Leave as is, it's a trip hazard but its in a door.
  2. Build a wooden platform out to where the room widens (about 30" from the door jam) but this is also a trip hazard that is not in the doorway.
  3. bash out the concrete and re-pour it with a ramp (1.5" over 30" span is hardly noticeable). This is probably the best route to go, but also is the biggest pain in the ass.

I'm looking for any other input or suggestions for this floor. Thanks in advance!

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