I'm painting some of my bike parts with some Hammerite Rust to Metal spray. I'm pretty noobie to the DIY scene completely but I've got a question related to leaving items to dry. I don't really have anything to hang them up on, is this required? Are there any alternatives? If not then I'll build a drying rack but it just further delays it (But if it's required I'm more than happy to!). I can't really find anything online, I know I'm using the wrong query in google because it keeps sending me to canvas painting drying techniques! Lol
So I I'm working on a project in which I transform an old Girl's bedroom (fairy lights, pink walls) into a very minimalist black and white office, most of the planning has been done but I recently have realised a couple problems.
The desk will be composed of three components, 2 ikea Alex draws, 8 small solid cubes on top of the 2 draws (each corner) and then a laminate marble table top for the desk area, being held up by the 8 cubes and draws.
Problem 1: After searching around for solid raising cubes on the internet, I cannot find any that work, they need to be black, preferable not wood and no more than 10cm diameter. If anyone knows a way to get something like this, please let me know.
Problem 2: Once I have all the needed parts for the desk, how would I go about connecting the cubes, drawers and top together, would it be best to use nails, glue or something else.
Thanks for the help in advance
Recently got a concrete breaker, one of them ~£100 ones from China
It seems to be more powerful one you press or release the trigger, then when it's up to speed Like it does the 'breaking' movement when it's getting up to speed or slowing down, but once at speed it seems to just vibrate a little
Is this normal? Find I'm using it like a gun from a western, rapidly pulling the trigger
We have a pretty big, unconditioned attic that is all wasted space. The only thing up there is a furnace/air conditioner, which sits on a small platform accessible from the attic access panel.
The rest of the attic is simply ceiling joists, and loose insulation and insulated HVAC ducting.
Would it be a horrible idea to lay down some 3/4” subfloor-grade plywood, so at least the space could be somewhat usable for non-sensitive storage?
The attic space isn’t sealed, nor are the ceiling joists of the roof insulated/sheeted. I’d be laying the plywood directly on top of the insulation and joists. We would use it primarily for seasonal decoration storage or something.
Is this a bad idea? Is 3/4” subfloor overkill ($25/sheet) Could I use 1/2” osb or other cheaper plywood?
I’ve got little to no interest in finishing the space, I just would like to be able to walk around up there and move some stuff out of basement storage.
I have a 26 gallon air compressor max 150psi and I want to put it in the back corner of my garage with a hose reel mounted on the ceiling in the center and another quick connect in the front of the garage for easy access. I am planning on using ½ inch pvc with glued connections to route the air because it’s cheap and easy. I have already started mounting some of the pipe but after doing some reading there are very mixed opinions on pvc. I’m in Southern California so I’m not too worried about brittle failure from excessive cold but wanted to knowing anyone else has experience with a similar setup or any advice for the project.
Tldr; why does my saw burn the wood?
I have a craftsman 12 inch sliding compound miter saw. It's using the original 12" blade. I haven't used it very much. Maybe a few dozen deck boards and some 2x4. Whenever I do a long cut like in the picture, I get a cloud of smoke and burn marks on the wood, usually more at the beginning and less later.
(Sorry for being a noob) I also get burns if I set an angle either horizontally or vertically. I rarely get a burn on straight cuts.
Is it just a dull blade? Can I sharpen it or is it not worth sharpening? Can you recommend a new 12" blade? I'll pay for quality if it's worth it, ie lasts longer
Maybe I'm doing something wrong. It only burns on miter cuts, not straight cuts. I suspect the wood moved, but I've clamped it down in several places and have the same result. It also burns both sides. I go really slow at first to minimize the burn, but that doesn't help. On this cut I pulled the blade to full extension, plunged to limit and pushed backwards. The burning stopped after the blade made it to the bottom of the plywood.
I propped open the guard to show the blade better. I don't cut with the guard open...
Hey, I hope this is the right subreddit. I've lived in China for the past 2 years and had to fix a lot of broken stuff in my apartment, so DIY seemed fairly applicable. The problem is simple. I've got a gas stove (never had one before) and it appears to no longer be getting gas. All piping from the meter to the stove seems intact/unchanged and there's no reason gas shouldn't flow.
Initially I figured my gas card had run out of funds, so I topped it off (the shower, also gas-heated, is still working fine). Then I thought perhaps the stove has some kind of ECU for the gas flow (the igniter seemed weak, too) so I replaced the batteries in the meter AND in the stovetop. Still nothing.
I turn the knob, the igniter clicks, but nothing comes out. Do I have to prime the gas lines or something? Is there some handle or pump for that? Is it possible the stovetop knob is faulty and not opening the gas line correctly? Is there some super obvious solution that gas stove aficionados are laughing about right now that they'd like to share with me?
Lastly, there's a couple adjuster arms, I'm assuming for each burner. What do these do? https://imgur.com/a/SWKnhQt
Thanks in advance for any insight into the mysteries of this metallic mess.
A year after renovating my first place, like the sadist I am I'm doing it again.
However, I've never come across something like this. Edit: I did google this issue and everything was for textured wallpaper, not...cementy type stuff?
My front room used to be an outdoor balcony. However, removing some of the textured wall shows that it's some kind of cement sheeting? I thought it would be like textured wall paper however removing the top layers is showing wooden wall frame. Prior to opening it to take a look I had it checked for asbestos.
Do I need to chisel the lot off and put up plasterboard? I honestly couldn't bear to look at this hell daily...
I have a bunch of art but not a bunch of money to frame it. This DIY job isn't completely professional quality, but it got 99% there for a fraction of the price. I love it, and am going to frame the rest of my art using this method.
After a bit of water damage, I have to replace about a 10 x 8 section of carpet pad. We've already had emergency drying so the remaining pad is safe and dry. The old pad was glued down and a major pain in the ass to rip up, and I was wondering if taping is a better option for a fairly low traffic area - particularly with the majority of the area glued down already. Do I need double sided tape for the concrete to pad contact? Does anyone recommend getting away with NOT taping or gluing this section down and instead just duct taping the old pad seam to the new pad seam?
Greetings. Know this has been discussed a bit before to some degree. But I am trying to make this better without actually pinning the doors yet. First thing I've done is reverse the latch so it hooks from below not above. This way lift is more difficult with a crowbar.
I'm also using a dowel in the bottom track. But i'm finding there are no rails in the top of the door, which has about an inch of play. The door itself has a groove which has about 1 inch of play. Has anyone considered screwing an actual piece of metal molding in the frame of the door not the door itself? Seems like this would be a good way to prevent the door lifting out of the track. Am I off base here? Assuming the tolerance was good enough think it could be strong enough to withstand a crowbar trying to lift it out of the track?