General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread
This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, how to get started on a project, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between. There ar
A new thread gets created every Sunday.
So I replaced my doorbell bell yesterday, and there is a hole in the wall behind it (obviously) where the wires run through. That hole had cold air coming out of it as the A/C was on. The HVAC unit is in the attic and it has flexible ducts to each register in the ceiling. I don't really want to cool an entire interior wall, any idea on how to trace the leak? The ducts themselves don't run through the walls, so I am a bit confused. Thx
My plumber recommends method 1 below every six months to keep sediment from accumulating in my new gas water heater tank. Others say this only stirs up sediment because the tank fills from the bottom. What maintenance procedure is better, and why?
Method 1 1. Put gas valve in vacation mode. 2. Attach hose to drain valve and place other end in drain or outside. 3. Open drain valve and allow to drain (my plumber said until I get cold water, but others say until outflow is clear, which could be just a few gallons). 4. Close drain valve, remove hose and turn gas valve back to desired temperature range.
Method 2 1. Turn the gas valve to vacation mode. 2. Run faucets until water flows cool or allow time for tank to cool (to prevent contraction when refilling). 3. Close the cold water inlet valve. 4. Attach hose to drain valve and place other end in drain or outside. 5. Open pressure relief valve and all hot water faucets. 6. Open drain valve until tank has drained. 7. Close pressure relief valve. 8. Open cold water inlet valve. 9. Close drain valve. 10. Once hissing noise has stopped and clear water is flowing from faucets close the faucets. 11. Turn gas valve back to desired heat range.
I'm currently living in student accommodation, so drilling holes is out of the question. However, i'm wanting to take some fabric to make a canopy style ceiling to spruce the place up a bit.
My plan is to take some command strips, attach them to the ceiling with a relatively strong magnet and use that to fasten the fabric to the roof. I've found command strips that that claim to be able to hold upwards of 7kg/15lbs.
So my questions are: Is this likely to work? and, what kind of fabric would be the best to use.
That is basically what I want candles to look like (or some version of that, but basically something cute + rotund + smooth). Do you think this is an attainable feat? Sorry if this is the wrong subreddit - I couldn't find anything about candles being prohibited (lol).
I have thought about 3d printing some sort of "blob" cast and then just carving out some more blobs after it's hardened but not sure if anyone else would have more insight or if I should just give up entirely and buy the "blob" candles pre-made which are 25USD each (I cry)
I read to my young niece and nephew. I'd love to put together a collection of stories we read together, so they'll have it when they're older. Sort of like a personalized storybook. The catch is: we are constantly adding new stories on top of their favorites so the book has to be somehow "edit-able". The best I could think of is a binder with rings but that doesn't seem very appealing. I want to go for a nice old storybook look. They tend to like short stories more than novels at this point, so right now I find short stories online and print them out. Any ideas would be great.
Sorry about the bad quality pic.
I dropped something on to the corner of a tile, causing it to chip. Since it is a rental, i can't replace the tile myself. How to deal with the sharp edges caused by this and repair the damage as much as possible?
Good afternoon all, I've been a lurker for quite some time and finally got up the motivation to build my son a club house. I had the intention of adding a little storage area at the bottom next to a 4'x5' sandbox, but my wife requested today that it be able to have it support the weight of a child or two.
Currently I purchased PT 1x6 6' fence pickets to cover it and I was going to use a simple hinge. Is there a way to add some support to that section pictured below to allow it to still be used as storage and support weight?
(As an intro, I live in Ontario, Canada, in case that affects answers.)
We're remodeling our second floor washroom, and this is related to the bathrub area. I ripped down all the tiles, drywall, insulation, and vapor barrier. I had some concerns with possible mold, but I also figured it makes sense to just replace the insulation.
The problem I'm facing is that when I ripped down the ceiling of the bathtub, there was two types of insulation, the blown in version (at the attic space), and below that there was the yellow fiberglass blanket(?) insulation. This was all black at the bottom.
Essentially, there's a bulkhead that came down at the bathtub area, and I assume that was why I had two types of insulation. I'd like to remove that bulk head, and just build straight to the ceiling.
My question is, what's the best way to do this? Do I just demo the bulkhead, drywall the ceiling, and then go up into the attic crawl space and add insulation above the bathtub that way?
Any kind of tips or ideas appreciated. Pic for reference attached.
EditL seems reddit didn't upload the images or something, link to images: https://imgur.com/a/UCuUaaC
I'm having specific issues creating a bevel on two sides of the same face of wood as shown here: https://youtu.be/WLLX3ySLHVM?list=LLazXxq8RvTFp2RPd3OycYWA&t=29
I'm using a table saw and one edge is not a problem. When I flip it over to do the other side there isn't a lot of wood left on the table and I find my cuts coming out uneven if they come out at all. I imagine I'll need some sort of jig but I can't figure it out.
I've entertained the idea of keeping everything 90 degrees but then I run into the issue of the faces of the minecraft tiles not quite matching up well enough. They would be protruding. I know I could use solid wood but then I would lose out on a cool aspect of each 'block' being its own.
I'm not hellbent on doing it the way I described above, any tips/help are welcome. Thanks!
I've been looking for a cheap way to add shade to my back yard patio. I've recently come across shade sails and figured this might be the cheapest option. I've noticed that all the installation options I've come across so far would require me to place two poles cemented into the ground to attach two corners of the sail to. However, I was wondering if I could use two poles that extend from the house out an angle that the outer two corners of the sail could attach to. Essentially the same way some retractable trailer awnings are supported.
Has anyone tried mounting a shade sail using this approach?
Are there any drawbacks to mounting the shade sail this way?
So this is the floor as is. And I have a couple of questions.
The Hardie board being cut into sections like that, will that be an issue?
Do I need any sort of mud/SLC underneath the Hardie (between that and the subfloor) or should it go Hardie then SLC then tile?
I am in need of a projector stand that is at least 7 feet tall, and is capable of holding at least of 55 lbs. I think my best bet is to build one myself, but I am fairly new to DIY and was hoping for some advice/tips.
I have looked online, but the only projector stands I can find can not hold that much weight.
The projector is an Eiki LC-X6, approx 9.9 x 20.4 x 23.9 inches, and weighs about 55 lbs.
My situation is this: I run the projector for a band when they play shows (the projector belongs to them, I just manage it for them). In the past, we stacked some tables we found backstage and used that as a stand, but I was NOT comfortable with that scenario (I really don't want a 55 lbs projector falling on anyone- especially me!! lol)
So we need a much better stand- BUT, the stand can NOT be permanent, because we need to be able to load everything in before the set, and then back out at the end of the night. and should be easy to transport (or at least be able to break down enough that I can get it back into my car).
I have found some tutorials on YouTube from a guy that makes aquarium stands- is the basic aquarium stand plan something I could apply to this scenario? Or would it be too tall and topple over?
Thanks for your help! (I hope I didn't break any rules in my post)
I just finished installing my vinyl planks on a plywood subfloor and it worked great. I have linoleum flooring in the majority of the remaining floor area. I did a test and my adhesive did not work well on the linoleum. I did sand the floor first before applying as recommended by the flooring store. The adhesive was very wet still.
What is my best course of action? Do I need to remove the linoleum? Do I need to thin set something on my linoleum? Or is there an adhesive that will work?
So I decided to get a neweer mic arm for my desk but my desk is 5 inches. I have very little experience in diy and I was wondering what I could do to be able to put the mic arm on my desk.
Hello, very much a noob home-improvement DIYer here.
The partner is trying to hang some shelves on what he figured was plasterboard, so purchased those GripIt plasterboard fixings. But when drilling into into the wall, he went much deeper than expected, almost 3cm. Given that the fixings are NOT that deep, we're wondering how best to repair this to maybe be able to use the same hole drilled; or if it should just be filled in and use a different type of fixing elsewhere.
Also, is this actually plasterboard or something else? And if we do have to fill it in and start over elsewhere, what to use?
Image (hope the link works): https://i.imgur.com/TcR5NCl.png
I live in a relatively old home where none of the outlets are grounded and thus are all two pronged outlets. I'm working on installing 6 recessed ceiling lights and wanted to make sure I was thinking about things correctly. The outlet I was planning on wiring the lights to is connected to a light switch and I wanted to keep it that way. Is it okay for me to wire all of the recessed lights together without having a ground? Should I wire the lights directly to the switch instead of the outlet? Any other advice would be appreciated.
I picked up a cheap shadowbox frame from a yard sale. It's the perfect size to hold a handstitched quilt my great-great grandmother made. I then realized that the glass in the frame was held down with an adhesive. The glass easily slid out. I've been trying to remove the adhesive with Goof Off, but it hasn't removed it all. Any suggestions on how to remove the adhesive or a good way to cover it so it won't melt/leak?