I want to power THESE LED light bars using a Lipo battery. The light says it needs 10-30v.
The battery I want to use is THIS ONE which is listed at 11.1v. This seems to mean it's safe, but will it be bright enough?
I could buy two batteries and connect them in series to get up to 22v.
I need bright enough to be seen during the day from 300-ish yards and only stay on 2-3 seconds. I could build a hood to shield it from the sun, but brightness is key.
Any advice on this?
Thanks for your time.
Hello all. I'm looking to make a 12 volt battery pack using 8 AA batteries. I want to control the voltage from the pack to adjust L.E.D light brightness.
I'm looking for info on what I would need to make this as safe as possible. Would wiring the pack directly to a potentiometer be bad at all? And what resistance would I need for this?
I want to build a kind of Dowsing Rod, that would be able to point you towards a tracker, one of a few withtin the vicinity, and it would point you to the one you choose via a dial on it. It wouldn’t need be long range, as it would be meant for finding everyday items like remotes and phones. How could I go about this?
So I bought a used LucidSound LS40, worked for about a day before it started acting weird and would not work. Went to the website and my problems( not functioning, but LED would turn on when the power button was pressed) were due to an old firmware problem. I attempted to update the firmware, but non of my computers would recognize the device, I used multiple usb ports and cables.
So now after following the websites advice to drain the battery completely and recharge to full power( I assume in attempt to restart the onboard computer, to allow me to update the firmware) it does not seem to be charging. So as a mechanical engineer my first instinct was to crack it open and hopefully find some wiring bracket that I can undo and reattach to manually remove the power source and reset the device. But there is not a bracket, only soldered wires and im not too confident in my soldering skills. So before I remove and re solder the wires, I would like to ask for some advice from someone who may be more knowledgeable about electronics.
Here are two pics, one of the main circuit board and one of the battery: https://imgur.com/gallery/1XgsVPw
I appreciate any help to hopefully fix this device in a attempt not to spend any more money.
I was looking at these projects (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2267261 & http://goedhartvoordieren.nl/?page=r/diyelectronics/comments/79gc1q/modifying_nanoleaf_aurora_pcb_linkers/ )
for using creating a wired link between Nanoleaf panels. And i saw a teardown of a nanoleaf panel which made me think that the 4 pins on the linker are just RGB+, which got me wondering if it's possible to run an RGB LED light strip between the Nanoleaf panels to connect them.
I'm hoping to use LEDs and Nanoleafs for the interior of a dome at a Burning Man Regional gathering in october and the current linkers aren't conducive to lining a geodesic dome.
I'm pretty mechanical, but electric stuff beyond wiring is a bit beyond me.
Does anyone know what it would take to power a 12v jump pack/air compressor from an 18v power source? I always have Milwaukee M18 batteries with me, you can buy sleds on eBay to connect em to stuff, and I could even run two if need be. Was just curious about the 18v to 12v change over as I'd imagine the extra voltage would burn stuff up. Is there an easy way to step down the voltage?
At the moment I have a wireless game controller that uses Bluetooth to connect to a device. However, my current motherboard does not have a Bluetooth module on it so could anyone please give me a guide on how to make my own Bluetooth module for a PC.
Hello. I've got a small (3mm side square) element with two contacts on the bottom which needs to be kept cool. The maximum heat dissipation should be about 0.6W, and there's about 6mm² of surface area available for conduction. The elements' thermal resistance is 11K/W, and the absolute max junction temp is 125C, although I'd feel much better with it around 80C, 60C if possible. From basic heat dissipation math, I know I need a heat sink with no more than (Jc - Je) / 0.6W, which should be about 60K/W.
I was planning to use 22 AWG wire (0.644mm diameter) to connect it, soldered on (possibly two side-by-side if there's room). The wire I think should have a thermal resistivity of about 4K/W, and will be placed on thermally conductive adhesive over a very large aluminum heat sink. There'd be about 3mm between elements of just plain (stripped) wire, probably with a little bit soldered on that would stand up into the air and another to lay flat onto the adhesive. Elements are in groups of three.
From these basic calculations, it seems like that should be enough dissipation but I'm worried that this simple calculation isn't taking the whole situation into account. Does anyone have any advice? Does this seem like enough dissipation? Would a lower AWG be better or maybe more wires of a higher AWG? Am I totally off on my estimates here? The elements are temperature-sensitive so that's why I'm worried.
I have a project that I would like to do revolving around making a DSI clone with a raspberry pi 3. The one thing that I want to do that seemingly nobody has done, is make one with two screens, like an actual DSI. I understand that the Raspberry pi only has support for a single display output, and that this idea probably sounds idiotic. However I feel like it should be possible to use something to force two displays to be treated like a singlr display that spans them both. If you have any idea where I could look to do more research on it please let me know, as I ca't find any mention of this online.
Is there an adapter that appears as a usb keyboard that will allow a bluetooth keyboard to connect to it? I'm trying to connect a bluetooth keyboard to something that i don't want having bluetooth. If not i'll just build something out of an esp32 and an arduino leonardo.
I have a question about reusing this laptop battery
I would like to use it to power a 12 volt monitor (also salvaged from the same laptop)
I've seen tons of info on 18650 batteries but nothing on these. Should I treat them as similar batteries? And how should I set up the circuit? Also is their any chance of reusing the board its built with?
Sooner today as I was walking home I found an old "boombox" laying in the garbage, so I took it home, cleaned it and it seems to be working pretty well. The only thing is that I would like to use it with a rechargeable battery pack, rather than with old batteries. It normally uses 6 1,5V batteries (R20 un Europe, D-CEL in the US) and can also be used with a basic 220V power chord...
As you may have noticed by now I don't know anything about electronics and I'm already feeling kind of dumb for asking this here, I'm just wondering if it is worth spending money and time to use it with a battery pack.
Here are a few pictures of the beast, if it can be of any help:
Thanks for your help !
I want to try getting into diy electronics and i thought this would be a good first project. Im still learning the terminology but i feel confident and safe enough to attempt this.
This is for a diy rc im making.
All i can find about the motor is its rated for 14.4v and 190w.
To control this speed controller i am using a throttle servo from a nitro rc car.
Can some one help me with a parts list and a simple diagram to get me started?
Im not advanced enough to get into pwm or something of that nature.
Basically what i am trying to do in a nutshell is have an off position when the servo is neutral and use some sort of wiper on the servo arm to control the motor forward only.
For power i will be using nimh batteries.
I would like to get my son some sort of kit for him to build. He has taught himself a bit about soldering (successfully soldering wires back onto a small circuit board of a remote control tank and getting it working again, as an example). He likes robots, tanks, remote control, building things and the like. Not as interested in programming, but that's my thing so I'm not opposed to something that involves a raspberry or arduino.
I've looked on Amazon and found some interesting things, but nothing that involves soldering. Things that are kits and involve soldering seem to only be "learn to solder" kits that look boring, to be honest. Kits that actually look fun always advertise "no soldering required".
Can anyone suggest any good kits (or something with really good instructions, as this is the crux of the matter - I have no experience myself and so I feel we need detailed instructions in whatever I get)?
been building myself a solution to keep my fishtank cool in the warm summer months, got myself an ESP, some fans and a temp sensor, and now started creating a fully featured controller from that point.
Check out the current state and let me know what you think :)
I was asked to design a circuit with a relay that can keep lights on for 15 minutes (for example) and then turn them off for 3 minutes and then repeat. I was given the Phidgets 1017_1 to use as a relay, but I have no experience with. One channel can handle 60W at max. I also have a large 150W light that I can use.
The problem I am experiencing is that I don't know the setup the client uses. The lights are around a karting track. I assume the lights are LEDs, but I'm not sure. So chances are high that the total power of the LEDs is higher than 60W. (So lights on during race and off between races.)
I don't know what to do if the total power is higher than 60W. I was thinking of placing the relay between the DC-power supply and the LEDs. But I would need to split the LEDs into parts that are all 60W max. And I would need a lot of cabling for that on a karting track.
Do I need another relay that has a higher power limit?
For the timer, I would use an Arduino I guess.
Am I missing something? Is my reasoning bad?
Hey guys I am trying to help out a local charity that needs incubators. I was wondering if you guys know of a cheap and reliable temperature controller. It needs to be 110v rated, and can turn a fan on, heat source on or all off based on the temp? Any help would be appreciated.
Here's my situation: I have an AC unit that leaks because it doesn't stop when its drain pan overfills. I don't know how to fix the unit, and I don't want to pay for the company to fix it. Instead, I had the idea to drain the unit into a larger reservoir, then use a float switch inside the reservoir to turn off the unit when the reservoir fills. Here's a diagram: https://imgur.com/a/oNW1kCt
The catch: I have never worked with electronics and have no idea how to do this.
So - I have some questions:
- Is there a float switch that exists that is small enough to fit inside a small reservoir?
- How could I connect such a float in between the AC unit and its wall socket, so that the float switch can disable power to the AC unit?
Also, I don't really know the right terminology to talk about this stuff, so apologies for that :P
Hi everyone, Will my Arduino Uno break if I use two Joystick Modules and an HC-05 Bluetooth Module from the same 5V input pin? I've tried using multiple Joystick Modules and they work but I'm not sure whether this is sustainable or if it'll eventually break. Thanks in advanced. :D
Edit: The unit will be powered by USB however, via a switch, I'll use an Li-ion chargeable battery along with the Bluetooth Module for wireless capability.
I made an account just to consult the DIY oracles about my struggle. Here's the situation: if left to her own devices, my cat will come into my bedroom at 5am every day and do everything in her power to wake me up. I've started shutting her out of the bedroom just before bed because sleep deprivation is an actual form of torture, but I really miss seeing her right when I wake up (I'm a sap). My question is... is there any way to outfit my bedroom door so that it opens at a certain time every morning without me waking up to let her in? I can't cut a hole for a pet door since I'm a renter rather than a homeowner, but I can attach something to the wall/knob. I'm thinking if I tape down the latch, I just need something to keep the door closed that's programmed to retract at a certain time in the AM. When googling "timed door opener" all I found was chicken coops. I'm attaching pics of my cat to sweeten the pot. Her name is Spooky.
I have a working LED matrix running off of a raspi, but I can only load static files to it. Coding is not my strong suit, but I want to get the ESPN bottom line api to scroll on the LED but I have no idea how to accomplish this.
Hi, I'm trying to build a guitar pedal I have some parts and I tried some schemes from the internet and they work. But I would like to learn how to create desired effect. Is there anywhere I could learn about electronics and how they affect the sound?