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Wallpaper is around 40 years old, it was peeling off it's own backing.
I finally pulled it down, but as you can see the brown (majority) of the backing is still very well glued to the wall. I've peeled off the loose areas where the glue never held (white areas near bottom for example).
I'm thinking about just painting over the top of this, is that the best way forward or should I do something else first?
My 2013 LG TV spectacularly popped one night without warning.
Changing the plug fuse didn't help (UK plug)
As it's just a few years out of warranty I decided to have a go at repairing it instead of just buying another, especially as the screen is perfectly fine.
Opening it up, there is no sign of damage, no scorch marks anywhere.
So multimeter out, tests the PSU including the soldered 5A fuse (1200W in UK mains). The fuse was blown but nothing else negative found.
So I've soldered a temporary 3A (closest match I had on hand) in place and it runs perfectly.
So what's the issue I hear you ask? I'm concerned what would cause a 5A/1200W fuse to blow on a TV that normally consumes ~200W from the plug.
Should I risk a fuse change, hope for the best or replace the PSU with a referb to be on the safe side? https://imgur.com/7OTT9oi.jpg
A couple of bulbs in my bathroom have gone. The bathroom was just installed a year ago so this is the first time I have had to change any of the bulbs - but I can't work out how to do it?
I have linked to a couple of photos of the bulbs below. Nothing seems to twist or turn on them. I thought I may have to pull the whole fitting down to change them - but that doesn't seem possible here as the lights have some sort of sealant around the edge (shown in the pics) - presumably to stop water or steam getting in and frying the bulb. Any ideas?
I have a broken door to my spice cabinet! The door hinges broke right off of the door itself. http://imgur.com/gallery/N4x7QtA I tried stuffing it back on at first but that (obviously) didn't work. So I bought some E6000 and tried applying it back on. But I just opened it gently and it fell off. I don't know what to do so I hope I can have some help! If you want anymore details please ask! (I want to fix it! :'( )
I was wanting to know if it's possible to get a chess board repaired. This chess set has a lot of sentimental value as it was a family member's. However, he has passed away and I would like to see if it's even possible to repair. I believe he purchased this in Mexico many years and I think it is a onyx material.
I have a Whirlpool el88trrws03 (about 6 years old). It is a freezerless upright refrigerator. It stopped cooling the other day. Sits around 65-70F. On visual inspection I found ice build up on the inlet of the evaporator coil in this area (picture no of actual fridge, but yellow circle is where the build up was. I will upload with current picture later.). I have checked most everything that I can thing of and was hoping for some more advice or suggestions before I scrap it and buy a new fridge.
What I've done. I cleaned the condenser coils (they were dirty). Both condenser and evaporator fans are running. The compressor is running and I checked both the starting relay and the overload, they appear to be good. I ohmed across the compressor motor and looked normal. The thermostat is working. The defrost coil reads about 30 ohms across it. The defrost timer is working. However, when I manually advance the defrost timer the coil does not heat up. This could be cause by the fridge being too warm. Not sure if the ice build up would make the evaporator coil cold enough to actuate the defrost thermostat.
What I have left to do. I'm going to pull the defrost thermostat tomorrow and check if it works by throwing it in my freezer. After that I'm on to a new fridge as I would then expect a bad compressor or lack of refrigerant (both things I don't want to get involved in changing).
Any have an ideas/suggestions? Is getting frost in that location indicative of anything? Clogged evaporator? Low refrigerant? Anything else I can check that I haven't? Thanks in advance for your time.
I have a 2 door garage. One of the buttons that is attached to the wall in the garage that opens/closes the door does not work. Both buttons appear to be the same, both still have the light on so it seems they are both getting power just one does not perform the function of opening/closing the door it is assigned to. Any ideas on the fix for this issue?
I'll be installing laminate 'wood' snap-together flooring in a basement room. The previous flooring was carpeting. The baseboards were installed after the carpet so there's a gap underneath those where I'll slide the new flooring and underlayment. However the frame of the door goes pretty much all the way down to the concrete floor. There's a small gap but not enough to fit the new flooring.
What's the best way to install the flooring right around the door frame? Carefully cut the flooring to fit the door frame like a puzzle? Try to cut off the bottom 1/2" (or so) of the door frame to slide the flooring under it like I'll be doing for the baseboards? Some other solution?
Never installed this type of flooring before and have minimal carpentry skills.
Is it blocked, broken, burning, busted, clogged, cracked, creaking, crippled, crushed, damaged, dead, defective, dented, dirty, disassembled, dysfunctional, faulty, failing, frayed, grinding, haywire, jammed, jerry-rigged, in pieces, incomplete, leaking, lodged, loose, malfunctioning, out of order, ripped, run down, ruptured, rusted, scratched, separated, severed, shattered, shredded, smashed, smoking, sparking, split, stalling, stuck, torn, warped, wonky? We're Here to Help.