Hey all, got a nice honing guide from LN to sharpen plane blades, but it looks like nearly all my chisels are slightly tapered from handle to point... Anyone got any good ideas on how to lock down the chisels in the LN guide, or should I just be freehand sharpening?
Ok, I'll be gushing a bit here, only because I generally pass on transitional planes, as they generally have lead a hard life, the soles have been jointed into oblivion, irons used up, and are rusted beyond reasonable rehab, without stripping and repainting. But, when I do find one in exceptional condition, I'll snap it up. This is one of those rare circumstances, remarkable not only for the condition of the plane, but its size.
So, for you woodie and transitional fans out there, what I've got is a Stanley #27 1/2, which is a #5 1/2 in the iron variety, in exceptional condition. All original, it kept its condition because I found it in the bottom of a tool chest where it likely sat for a long, long time. Triangle logo on the iron, that dates it to circa T11, 1917, so this is a century old piece. Japanning on the metal pieces is 95%+, no oft found cracks in the wooden body, this one is solid (you might want to joint the sole after you sharpen it), mechanically 100% and all original. Body is 15" long by 3" wide. It is exceptional, not only for its condition, but you simply don't find many #27 1/2s out there, period, much less looking like this one. The only apology is the chip to the tote horn. A real peach, and if you are in to wooden planes, this is as good as it gets, and in a 5 1/2 size as well. I've not found one like this ever in the 5 1/2 size. Not quite collector quality due to the tote chip, but really close. You can see additional pics in the Flickr album linked below. Yours for the very reasonable $60 plus shipping. Transitionals in this condition don't come up very often, and even less in this size. in the link to the Flickr album below.
Now, in that same toolbox, were a whole bunch of truly vintage gouges. Eight to be exact. 6 of them are clearly marked Buck Bros., the other two are marked, but I just can't make out the maker. All need attention to the grinding of edges, and appear to have been owned by "WF Rogers" since he stamped his name on many of them. This is a bulk deal blowout, $60 plus shipping, thats a bit over $7 per item, certain sizes would bring $20 or more if I reground them but I'm not into putting in the work, so this is a true bargain for someone looking for a set of user gouges. Pics in the flickr album.
As always, first PM with an unequivocal "I'll take it" gets priority, and please include your full shipping address in the PM so I can print up mailing labels and figure actual shipping. Payment by USPS money order please, I don't have paypal, that is an new trick and I'm an old dog.
Flickr Album link for more pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/9433588@N08/albums/72157667197381127 User tools priced reasonably, and in the case of the 27 1/2, exceptional and unique user tools..... Thanks for looking.
I am in the market for a clamp guide, but I am not sure which one would be good. I don't want to pay a ton for it. I saw wood river ones at woodcraft the other day, and almost bought one. Anyone had any experience with them? My other pick was a cheapo from Harbor Freight for like $15. I think the woodriver 50" is $50.
I'm in the UK and over the past year or so of woodworking I've picked up a few old hand planes. Despite my best efforts and YouTube watching, I only manage to use one (#4) at the moment. For example, I have a wooden steel sole plane that looks super mighty, but the blade and chip breaker protrude out the mouth way too much, though the 'track' for the screw seems perfectly normal.
Another metal #4 I have also protrudes way too much even with the adjuster at the minimum. The lateral adjuster on this one is also way too loose and I'm a bit worried about pinning it down.
Basically I can't understand what the problems are so I can't fix them! That s also why I have been reluctant to buy a hand plane brand new - I feel pretty unequipped to do any troubleshooting.
I have been watching lots of YouTube videos but I feel like if someone could take the time to have a look at one of my trouble planes with me I'd learn so much more. I don't know if spamming subreddits such as this with pics and questions would be the best idea :)
Weird request I know, but I don't know anyone who does woodwork so I'm a bit at a loss. I'd be super grateful for a woodworking pal/mentor.
Edit: Here's a short album with some of the problems I've described in 2 of my planes https://imgur.com/a/ngBcNu9 thanks for any help!
I've been wanting to begin learning how to hand cut dovetails for some time now, but I lack a proper saw to do so. Ideally, I would like to own a Veritas dovetail saw or something like that, but I don't currently have the funds for such a purchase. Perhaps the best choice is just to be patient and same my money, but I am also considering a few options that might get me going sooner, like the Zona razor saw that Christopher Schwarz has raved about in the past, or a Crown gents saw. The Crown saw is a little bigger and might handle wider variety of tasks, but I also understand that it might require a saw file and some touch-up work right out of the box, not a huge problem as I do have some experience with saw sharpening, but maybe not worth it.
I am sure this is one of those topics where there are hundreds of varying opinions, but I am curious if any of you have any guidance to offer on how to economically enter the world of dovetailing.
***EDIT*** - Thank you all so much for the excellent insight that has been shared. At this point, I don't plan on buying either of the above mentioned gent's saws. I will instead be saving my money for something nicer. I am not sure exactly what that will be at this point.
Sorry for the slightly weird question: I'm a Canadian immigrant in Sweden, and I'm hoping someone here knows where I might source hand tools in Sweden.
Maybe it's easier if I ask this way: how do you say Lee Valley på svenska? :D
I should clarify, I'm happy to get great suggestions from anywhere in Europe, but at this early stage I'd really like to go to a physical store where I can have an in-person look. I'm in southern Sweden.
I bought the set of carcass saws (I’m keeping the XCut) to hold me over until I received my dovetail saw from Florip Toolworks. It was purchased in the middle of February this year and only used a handful of times.
Ideally I would like to trade for a larger tenon saw of some sort 3.5”+ cut depth 9-12 tpi Rip. I can do +/- cash but wouldn’t want to add too much. If this sits for awhile I would sell for $70 shipped CONUS. I will add photos tonight but it looks like new.
Lee Valley Description:
These saws carry forward the same design principles we used to develop our innovative dovetail saws, adopting selected traits of traditional carcass saws and rendering them using innovative materials and modern manufacturing methods. Typically used to cut joints in drawer runners, dividers, and stretchers (the framework or carcass of a piece), they are well balanced, maneuverable, and scaled for smaller work than a tenon saw.
Available in rip and crosscut versions. The 12 tpi rip saw has a 10° rake angle and an included angle of 60° for efficient cutting parallel to the grain.
The 14 tpi crosscut saw has a rake angle of 15°, an included angle of 60°, and teeth filed with alternating 15° bevels so they sever wood fibers rather than tear them. The teeth on each have relatively minimal set, at only 0.003” per side.
Each saw has a molded spine that incorporates stainless-steel powder for weight, glass fiber for stiffness, and an advanced polymer binder. An over-molded blade and stainless-steel handle-mounting bolt create a solid blade/spine/mount assembly. A single brass fastener secures the hardwood handle. The open-grip handle, made larger than those of classic carcass saws, permits a comfortable, secure grip. The high-carbon steel blade, 11” long and 0.02” thick, has a cut depth of about 2-3/8”. Each saw is 16-3/8” long overall and weighs just under a pound. Offered individually or as a pair.
I'm seeing this WEN one for $20 but I'm guessing it's not going to be the same quality as a $100 one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-Rotary-Tool-Kit-with-Flex-Shaft-2305/203604481
Then there's the Dremel 8220 Series - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-8220-Series-12-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Variable-Speed-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-Kit-32-Piece-8220-1-28/203830527
I can't figure out which one is best, 4000 or 8000 or in what ways are the Dremel worth 5x the cost of the WEN. I just worry about the battery after 50 charges will it not last as long? So maybe I need a corded one to have power consistency and not have it run out of power on me.
Or the $38 Tacklife with accessories and extension tool - https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-RTD35ACL-Multi-functional-Accessories-Attachments/dp/B01N6RH433/ )
This is a really nice chest. Seven drawer Kennedy 520, a classic. I saw it and could not leave it on the flea market table. Very little use; felt in drawers is original, in great shape, no rust or damage; drawers move like they should, Grey crinkle color, they changed to brown over the years, I think this one dates from the 50's, amazing shape and very gentle use by the original owner. Simply outstanding. I'll stop gushing, it has the label - no zip code on the address so its truly vintage, the still sealed divider kit, two keys, doesn't get much better than this. New, they still make them, are hundreds. Shipping will be expensive, figure $60 or so, depends on where you are. Very reasonably priced given the condition at $125 plus shipping. I have another that's not quite as nice, but figured I'd offer it as I really don't need it for myself. These go for north of what I'm asking on ebay and nowhere near the condition of this one. Pics can be found here in a Flickr Album:
This box is "as found", I've done nothing to it. Like I said, its pretty heavy, so shipping will be an issue, but I figured I'd offer it up for those so inclined to have a quality box, even though packing it up properly will be a PITA, but I will pack it tight so it will arrive safely. A great piece. As always, first PM with an unequivocal "I'll take it" gets priority, and please include your full shipping address so I can figure postage and print up mailing labels. And remember, I don't have paypal, so payment by USPS money order please.
I can't say enough about this box, its really nice. Thanks for looking.
Hey all, I'm thinking of making a pair of backsaws but I'm not sure what steel to use. 1095 spring steel seems ideal but I can't seem to find it at my local hardware stores. Ordering it requires getting way more than I need for far too much money. I can get 1008 shim stock just fine. Will this work or does 1008 lack the hardness to hold an edge and elasticity to not just bend and deform?
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