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all 77 comments

[–]supernav1 99 points100 points  (0 children)

I think the problem is the shirt. it looks too big. but the suit looks about right.

[–][deleted] 62 points63 points  (7 children)

The pant rise is too low. You don't want that triangle of shirt/tie showing.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 3 points4 points  (5 children)

can i tailor the pant to fix that, what should i say to the tailor

[–]mathruinedmylife 8 points9 points  (2 children)

rise is usually hard to fix. it’s not that big of a deal though. if you have a tie or maybe a belt to draw attention away, it’s a non issue. if it still bothers you, wear a darker shirt. Edit: is the rise too low? it looks ok... could be where the button on the jacket is falling. not sure though

[–]Cellifal 10 points11 points  (1 child)

He could also not have the pants pulled up enough. Lots of people wear suit pants like they wear jeans.

[–]MuffySpelunki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely think it's all a matter of pulling the pants up, putting on a belt, and then everything should fit nicely. I initially thought the crotch of the pants looked oddly low, which also made the hips look bowed out, for lack of a better word. Just pulling them up (provided there is enough forgiveness in the length) should fix any nit-picky issues we may be seeing.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No that can't be fixed. The rise is the distance from the crotch to the top of the waistband, and that can't be altered.

[–]StunLikeanAntelope 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you able to pull your pants up higher, like 2 inches. That is definitely the main problem I see in the pics. Pull them up as best you can. It will feel awkward at first bc we are all used to wearing mid-rise jeans, but it looks much better and will eventually feel better too in a suit.

A rise can't be altered, but the crotch can be let out a small amount to provide for more room if you need it.

[–]ElderKingpin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is the pant rise too low or is he just wearing it low

[–][deleted] 85 points86 points  (18 children)

Your shirt sleeves are either too long, or aren't cuffing your wrist close enough. I'm actually the same exact stats as you, with a different build and got the same cut and size. They didn't touch the jacket at all, just altered the trousers (brought in waist and hemmed). Fits great on me. I think for starters, you'll need to find a better fitting shirt or have that one altered. Try to add some pics without the jacket. Hard to tell how the trousers look with your suit jacket covering them.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 8 points9 points  (17 children)

Thanks Should I get MTM dress shirt? What I'm wearing is brooks brothers shirt smallest size (14.5 and 32) - so I'm not sure where I can get dress shirt any smaller

I live in NYC so I can go to black lapel or etc, price is steep but maybe it's time I get a well fitting dress shirt

[–]angreww 22 points23 points  (1 child)

Try Charles Tyrwhitt. They’ll fit better than B.B. in the body and are a little more contemporary in styling.

[–]shredderrrrrr 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately I've found there wrists to be huge. I always needs to have the button moved about an inch or two over.

[–]grizzlywhere 12 points13 points  (3 children)

You're in NYC? Go to Proper Cloth. They fit you for custom fit shirts, then set up an account online so you can pick out a pattern/material and buy more shirts later. I've been using them the past few years and have been really happy.

[–]loosesealbluth15 1 point2 points  (2 children)

How much do they run?

[–]grizzlywhere 0 points1 point  (1 child)

$85+. All the shirts I purchased from them are between $85-125 IIRC, but the nicer fabric can run you much more if you're so inclined.

My problem is that if a dress shirt at most stores fits my neck and shoulders then it is a boat around my gut, but if it fits my gut I can't bring my arms forward or ever button up my neck. So I'd rather pay $100 for a perfectly fitting shirt without having to leave my couch than spend an afternoon at Macy's on a $45 shirt I know won't fit somewhere.

[–]ScoopJr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely wish i had knew about Proper Cloth. 5’6 125-135. 15 neck. 42 chest. 31 waist. 28 length. Last time i got measured and clothes tailored.

[–][deleted] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'll be honest and say I usually cheap out on dress shirts. I only wear white ones so I just stocked up on a few Express 1MX extra slim fits in size small and they fit fine off the rack for me. That's what's most important to me since I'm not wearing dress shirts often. I know Express isn't top quality or anything to write home about, but I bought them when they went on sale.

If you can sew or know anybody that can sew, you can just ask them to take the button from the shirt cuff and move it so that the cuff hugs your wrist some more for a temporary/quick fix if everywhere else fits fine. Although, my personal taste would want smaller lapels than the ones that your shirt has.

[–]spartanblue6 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Are you wearing the Milano line? In my experience the tie bar slim fits fit a bit smaller than most so you may like that.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think mine is regent, this is the smallest size but as people said here i now realize its too big for me

[–]poncho_via 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My stats are almost identical to you, I'm just about 5lbs heavier and have a bit of a belly. Try the Nordstrom trim fit dress shirt. That's the best fitting shirt that I have found for me.

[–]IDubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should get Bespoke if you can afford it, that is why this MTM suit is off in a lot of ways. A MTM suit is a suit that is created as an “off the rack” size and then restructured to your body measurements. A bespoke suit is built from scratch to you body measurements. Is this suit full canvas?

[–]Throwandhetookmyback 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MTM shirts are a one way trip... I can't use a shirt off the rack without one or two alterations now.

[–]TransManNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Peter Manning in flatiron.

[–]RyVsWorld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to proper cloth for your shirts.

[–]DoctorQuinlan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm has pretty slim shirts form my experience. Fifteen bucks but obviously not great quality

[–]dflame45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get the slim fit. I have to get the Milano fit which is the slimmest BB for.

[–]Jackol4ntrn 9 points10 points  (2 children)

I'm about your body frame. Did 34 not work? Thats my suit size. But get it tailored, you can probably have the mid section taken in if 34 didn't fit properly. 34 might be a good fit on your shoulders and the tailor can open up the mid section if it's too tight.

Your shirt would also need to have proper sleeve length. If you don't have time to tailor, I would go with this untailored and just return it for a better fit later on. I think suit supply does customized tailoring if you can afford it.

[–]redneckgymrat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're that small, try a boys size. A 16 husky fits me almost as well as custom. The tailoring needed is minimal.

The trick is finding a high quality child's suit, but they do exist.

Men's proportions, for guys our size, can be problematic.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

34 felt too tight for me and uncomfortable :(

[–]brobits 6 points7 points  (0 children)

suitsupply has measured and tailored a shirt and suit on different occasions in store for me (chicago).

I agree bring the shirt sleeves up, the shirt might just have too much fabric.

i personally think the jacket is a little big, pants a little baggy, but if you're going for a more conservative cut in the suit, I think this works just fine.

if you are paying suitsupply prices--great on you, they have fantastic stuff--make sure you get something you love.

[–]ColdsnapBryan 35 points36 points  (0 children)

That shirt sucks. Collar is way too big for a modern suit and the sleeves are too long. Go to a thrift store and get a proper white shirt that fits you for $5.

[–]redneckgymrat 13 points14 points  (6 children)

Our stats are almost identical. Same height and within three pounds. But our shapes are a bit different.

The shoulders look...okay...for off the rack. The jacket looks a bit boxy. Two basic tips for short guys like us.

On someone our height, a jacket should end around the middle of the crotch. This one does. I could probably nitpick but I won't. The length of the jacket is, approximately, correct.

The fit should be body hugging. This helps lend a verticality that we require.

This jacket is very boxy and there is a slight pucker at the upper arm which gives me pause. It's not bad, as I said, for off the rack but it could look better. The pucker makes me think the shoulders could be too wide?

The body seems to not fit your shape. Lots of fabric. What IS your body shape, anyway? You said a bit of a belly but that's not much to go on. If you have even a slight vee or an hourglass shape, that can be enhanced with minor tailoring.

And I agree with the other guys. That dumpy shirt is ruining the whole effect. It looks sloppy and ill fitted.

As for the trousers, that depends on what you want. The legs, particularly the thighs, seem very baggy and droopy. But not loose enough to look intentional. They just look...tolerable. Simple tapering may fix that. How are the waist and the hips? I always have fit issue at the hips.

Can you sew? Or are you dependent on a tailor?

The rise on the pants is too low. I love a low rise pair of trousers as it makes my torso look to be in better proportion, personally, but you mustn't end up with that visible triangle at your belly button. Your pants can go higher or your button can go lower, but they shouldn't leave a peek-a-boo gap down there.

And, you also asked a second question...finding matching trousers for another jacket.

No. Just no. The answer is no.

Even within the same brand it is common for different dye lots to be, slightly, mismatched. The probability that you'd find a perfect match to produce a proper "suit" is, basically, nonexistent. It would actually make more sense to go with something entirely divergent, intentionally, even though it would be "improper."

Hope this helps!

[–]jameskoo87[S] 2 points3 points  (5 children)

thanks yes it helps

I tried on Napoli but i felt this one fitted my body better. Not sure where I can go to find much better fitting suit with this budget for off the rack. Maybe in the future I will try MTM or even bespoke if my budget allows... but thats for laters

I will see if i can tailor the trouser and get better fitting dress shirt

[–]TzunSu 0 points1 point  (4 children)

I don't think you can, except for trying a LOT of suits, but have you considered going to a tailor for adjustments? You have to realise that people are talking about ideal fit, and they are "hobbyists", so they will notice even small things. This looks eminently saveable!

[–]redneckgymrat 2 points3 points  (3 children)

I'm trying to word this as kindly as I can, my goal is not to sound negative.

It's a suit. A nice suit. You look nice enough in your nice suit, and you have no reason to question that in general terms. You'll probably be dressed better than 90% of the guys in attendance.

But you asked for critical feedback and the flaws in this suit, on you, are not trivial. They are not hobbyist level minutia, they are fundamental. So I want you to understand, clearly. I'm going to be more...straightforward.

In my response I mentioned that it "fits," as in going around you. It does! The salesman was right. But it's not a flattering fit.

So, starting at the top, the puckering in the upper sleeve implies that the shoulders are slightly too wide. They stick out past your actual shoulders, just a bit, don't they? Not a lot...but enough to impact the fit.

In the back view, it looks like there is a lot of wrinkly excess fabric wadded up between your shoulders. That also implies the jacket is on the large side.

You said the next size down was too small, so you're stuck with this fit. Which means you need to get rid of a lot of extra fabric. This is done primarily by adjusting the center seam.

People, real people who aren't fashion models or some idealized dressmakers form, are all shaped different. So clothing, suits included, are made from a lot of different patterns that all fit different. The key is finding one that actually fits you, as you are, without requiring extensive modifications. Tailoring should be a tweak, not a total redesign.

I would prefer to see you in a jacket that actually mirrors the shape of your body, better, but since that's not an option you'll have to rely on a tailor.

For guys as short and petite as us, the details REALLY matter. To start with, it needs to fit tighter. Earlier I used the phrase body hugging. I have a slightly hourglass waist, you said you have a slight belly. But either way, it needs to be shaped to your body...YOUR body. I don't mean tight, I mean body conscious. Show off your best assets. As the old song said, accentuate the positive and deemphasize the negative.

The jacket length is actually pretty good. That's tough for us. But the peekaboo gap at your crotch is doing you no favors. If you can pull up your pants, do it. If not, choose a shirt or tie that will minimize the color contrast.

Tapering the pants is a given. They also don't fit your shape, but that's an easy fix. Of the alterations needed to take this suit from okay to stylin, that's the most trivial one.

The shirt IS an issue, a major one, but it's not the biggest issue. Given the time restraints you need to prioritize.

[–]TzunSu 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Did you respond to the wrong guy?

[–]redneckgymrat 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Threading. It's for /u/jameskoo87 anyway. The original poster.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thanks

looks like you replied to the other guy but yeah i read your comment and appreciate the feedback

first thing i will do this week is to taper down the pants and see if i can fix the low rise (someone said its not possible, but ill just ask the tailor)

next i will hem the sleeve length of the dress shirt - or maybe even consider MTM but i only have a week left for my friends wedding

I dont have to wear suit for work and wear only on special occasions. Perhaps I will try the bespoke option and invest in much better fitting suit - but i would like to save this since i have already made a purchase ($500+) - i wish i prepared this sooner so that i didnt have to get this in a rush

[–]Beer_Chef_Drinky 13 points14 points  (1 child)

It's the shirt.

[–]jameskoo87[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Will check for better fitting shirt

[–]shredderrrrrr 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I feel like the pants are sitting too low, which is throwing off the proportions.

[–]Phoenix132138 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have them pin the suit to what they suggest for tailoring. When I asked them to, I only had to make minor changes from there.

From what I see though:

Take in the jacket sides, right up until it starts to show where your sides actually are.

Hem the jacket half an inch, small enough change not to impact proportions but super critical for short men.

Bring up the crotch of the pants, highly, highly needed.

Hem the pants to no/slight/half break.

Have them taper the pants to what they suggest based on jacket changes above.

It's almost exactly what I had to ask from them and I think it fits your bill well as well.

[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[deleted]

    [–]TransManNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Suit supply doesn't make 34 short and this is a 36 short. A 34 regular is 3/4 of an inch longer than this jacket.

    [–]iNeroSurge 2 points3 points  (5 children)

    Suit pants can be saved. Just some hemming and slight tapering can give it some drape. Suit jacket itself is a mess. The back has zero drape at all and does not fit your body. Sleeves look like a wrinkly ballsack.

    Pattern does not fit your body at all. Its astounding how people on this forum can accept such a fit. If you want to post classic menswear next time, just go to style forum. People have a sharper eye there and know better.

    [–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    thanks for the honest feedback

    do you know where i can find some pictures of people who have very well fitting suits so i can learn proper fitting? Googling pictures doesnt really help and suitsupply models only list very tall models over 6ft

    Maybe its not possible to achieve good fit for short guys? I looked at broc in modest men and it seems his suit fit is pretty good, would you consider his fit is okay?

    Thanks

    [–]iNeroSurge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Maybe its not possible to achieve good fit for short guys

    RTW is very tough for shorter guys. MTM will definitely fit better if you don't mind paying more. I cant find pictures of well fitted suits at the back but I bet if you browse bespoke suit threads (on SF) you can see some fittings. Really good fitted suits rarely have any pulling and have an immense amount of drape. You don't see any creases from the suit fitting poorly at all.

    broc in modest men and it seems his suit fit is pretty good, would you consider his fit is okay?

    No idea who he is, but some pictures would be great

    [–]redneckgymrat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Height has nothing to do with it. It is proportion. It just happens that most men's sizes, even very small ones, are proportioned for guys much taller than us.

    In my own response I mentioned the jacket terminating at the middle of the crotch. And a body hugging fit, that includes tapering at the waist and a lack of excess fabric.

    Without context, a way to tell a person's height, a well fitted and proportioned suit looks no different on a tall or a short man.

    This is one of the reasons I so often buy children's clothes. Even where the sizes overlap, the proportions work better for us because children are shorter.

    [–]TransManNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    But the U shape on the back of the thighs indicate a poor fit in the seat area. Possibly pants being worn too low?

    [–]timothynguyen 0 points1 point  (4 children)

    Hello,

    Okay so i assumed you tried on the 34R but the pants were too tight to let out? This is prob the best off the rack fit that you can get from a Lazio. I would have personally recommended that you shortened the sleeves from the shoulder. It's a $75 cost at suitsupply but its really worth it considering how long the sleeves are here. They look like they need to be about 2cm or so shorter.

    Ideally you should be doing "design your own suit" or full made to measure. DYOS allows you to mix and match sizes as well as make a few adjustments at the factory like length and waist circumference. it does take 4 weeks but its only $639 vs the $999 that MTM starts at.

    I'm curious which sales rep sold it to you.

    [–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    Hi

    No one really forced me but I just selected this style based on my research.. with my budget i was looking at napoli or lazio, and lazio fitted me better. It is too late since i purchased the suit and hemmed the pants, so i guess i will try to tailor the pants and wear it for now.

    For future reference, do you recommend other styles or should i go with MTM option

    [–]timothynguyen 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    Because you are pear shaped, I recommend you do either the Design Your Own Suit or the full MTM. Your shoulders prob fit better into a size 34 but your midriff a 36. It is a little more expensive but its super worth it if you arent a regular off the rack fit.

    [–]IDubbs 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    At the end of the day a suit is never going to be perfect in lol “Full MTM”. MTM is a restructured to your measurements, RTW suit. You need a real bespoke suit to achieve the proper look, there are some Fantastic Bespoke shops in NY, Toronto, Honk Kong, and London.

    [–]timothynguyen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    True bespoke is a huge price difference though. It's pretty tough to recommend it someone who is currently spending $500 on a suit.

    Youre correct about made to measure not achieving a "perfect" fit but lets be honest, most people don't need or even want that if it's not in their budget. I used the phrase "full mtm" because suitsupply has two different lines of custom garments outside of collection.

    [–]always_legendary 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Overall it's not too bad, but I think it's still not fit enough. Your sleeves are a bit loose, and so are the pants. You can also ask the tailor to help with the waist, since a little fitter always makes your legs seem longer. In addition, a bright-color tie would be nice.

    [–]MedicalCat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Your shirt is too long, and that collar is probably winged too long for your size/shape too. You would probably be more suited to something with a shorter wing or a wider wing. I like Gieves and Hawkes, or TM Lewin. TM Lewin can be had for quite cheap and comes in a variety of fits so you don't need to do that much tailoring. It would also solve the sleeve length problem as it would come in multiple lengths. TM lewin has 14" collars

    With regards to the suit jacket I think you could take a bit away from the chest in the armpit area from the back. That would slim the profile a bit and reduce bagginess. If you want to take it a bit further, you can get your tailor to adjust the pitch of your sleeve (where you rotate the shoulder on the jacket a bit and put it back), as it looks like your shoulders are slightly further back than what the suit was made for. You could also narrow the sleeves a tad on the bicep, as it looks slightly baggy, however, a better sleeve pitch would also reduce the wrinkling. This suit looks quite american in cut, as in it is a bit boxy and the button stance is a little lower. I would usually go for an english cut which has a slimmer, higher cut with a better drape.

    Trousers could be tapered a bit for a more modern look, but the length looks alright. I don't think the trouser rise is that much of a problem, as modern suits all have low rise.

    Don't wear the black suit jacket. Suits are made from the same fabric and when you have obviously unintentionally mixed them up, it looks like a bit of a faux pas.

    [–]raikmond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Unrelated to the suit, but I think you have a slouching posture. Pull your shoulders up and back a little bit.

    [–]ManlyHairyNurse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Shirt is definitely too big. That colar looks dated.

    The mid section of the suit is noticeably too large, sleeves are slightly too long and could be rotated. Coat is a bit long too.

    Pants are worn too low and could be slightly more adjusted in the calves area.

    Tip: blacktieguide.com's fit guide is my personnal bible.

    [–]IDubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    The rise is a problem, and maybe the U-Rise as well. There are a number of problems with the pants, including the fact by the way it drops that you may have a bit of diaper butt at the back and it needs to be taken in, also if you don’t have large calves there may still need to be some small tapering through the leg (hard to see a lot through this photo). The jacket needs to be addressed, the 1st button is too high for your height and the fact you have forward leaning sloped shoulders. Is this full canvas?

    [–]owarren 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    That shirt looks a little old fashioned to me. The collar is too big.

    That said, I prefer a cutaway collar or semi cutaway.

    http://www.ctshirts.com/uk/about-our-collars/

    [–]palcon_funcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    In addition to comments about your shirt, I think your jacket is a little too long and your pants rise is too low which i think is making you look a little disproportioned (longer torso and shorter legs). In a perfect world I would probably also hem the pants a little more so you have less break (but that's my personal preference) and tailor the pants so it fits more closely to your legs (pretty baggy ATM)

    [–]Nodeal_reddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    The suit looks good, but the sleeves are too loose or long. Use a tighter button if there are two. The sleeve should just touch where the meaty part of your thumb and wrist come together.

    [–]djtls 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Hey dude,

    Congrats on the purchase. Here is what you need to look into:

    • Pants are an easy fix: they are a tad too long, and in need of tapering. Once you get that done, they will probably look great. Once tapered, you want to be able to just just pinch a piece of fabric in between your thumb and index fingerprint. Right now, there is slightly too much break on the shoe and too much wiggle room in the leg.

    • For the jacket, there is a lot going on: as some have mentionned, the shirt isn't an ideal fit, which is making your sleeves look too short. Also, you might want to try changing the sleeve pitch as well as tapering them. You will also want to taper the jacket starting under your shoulder blades to about your belly button height in the back. With a proper fitting shirt (no need to get a MTM, just try a bunch on) you will be able to better gauge the sleeve length.

    You should have an impeccable suit after that!

    [–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Thanks, I will definitely get the pants tailored and shirts fixed

    [–]crazeman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Did you buy this online or from a Suit Supply store? YMMV but the sales/reps at Suit Supply I've worked with are very knowledgeable and pretty honest about which style or size looks best on me.

    [–]justinmeister 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I think it's a size too big.

    [–]RevivedMisanthropy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Get your shirtsleeves hemmed too, so they break at the wrist. Suit is not fitting you so well. It may be the cut of the suit. As long as it fits well around the chest and shoulders, other alterations to the jacket, such as hemming the sleeves and taking in the sides / back, should fix it. Pants can be a slightly tapered. Realistically this can all be done within a week, but you may want to bring it to an outside tailor if you're not happy with Suit Supply's results. Do a Yelp search for an expert and have it tailored correctly.

    [–]JimmyBiggums 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Maybe a smaller shirt, and get higher rise pants. They can be found on josabank. I'm an inch taller than you, and 230 pounds. High rise pants are a must for us short guys, it makes your legs look longer. Other than that your looking baddass Brutha.

    [–]ttotheodd 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    I'm roughly the same size as you and I usually go with a 38S, though the jacket length and shoulders seem fine on you. I prefer a more narrowed midsection to avoid looking boxy (for reference I have a J Crew Factory suit and the jacket is more gathered here and looks great). As others have said your shirt is too long in the sleeves, usually you want them to end right around the bony part of your wrist. Your shirt sleeves make the sleeves of the jacket seem too short although they're probably fine. Your pants are ok, maybe a little more tailoring in the seat wouldn't hurt but honestly if you just change shirts you'll help it out a lot. Good luck!

    [–]jameskoo87[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    thanks! Do you wear 38S in suitsupply? Wasnt it too boxy for you?

    [–]ttotheodd 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    No prob! I've never tried suitsupply so I'm not sure, I'm going off of the J Crew suit and another from Macys

    [–]amusing_a_musing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I’m about the same size and I️ generally wear 38s in J Crew and Banana Republic. I️ just got a 38s in Suitsupply and love the drape/ fit of it. The length of the jacket seems just right.

    [–]TheCaliKid89 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    It’s not absolutely terrible, but it is bad. If you need something in a pinch it might just have to do. I’d recommend you get yourself a properly tailored suit sometime soon though.

    [–]IDubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Cali is right, if you can try getting Bespoke next time, and a full canvas suit with a heavier fabric.

    [–]AExp21 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Send it all back