So my Mom is 63, divorced and has never worked. Instead she took care of their parents (my grandparents) until they died and inherited a $1M in stocks, mostly Kraft and Phillip Morris. A few years ago she has some crippling health problems and at the same time she discovered her long time financial advisor had been stealing five figures worth of money from her. After she got better she was relieved to be done with everything she settled out of court for less than he took. Now she is terrifying of financial advisors.
The biggest problem is that the stocks she has in Phillip Morris have a $0 cash basis. And before everyone jumps in and says we can research this and get the actual basis it has been decades, and multitudes of people of who have attempted to find the cash basis and nothing. It’s $0. PM makes up the bulk of her stocks but I’m not sure exactly how much.
She never worked outside of being a caretaker so she has no social security or any type of retirement account. She is, as we understand, eligible for her ex spouse who has died. She will be 65 next year. She is selling her house in PA and expects to receive $80-$100k in net proceeds which she is going to use to build an addition or finish our basement to the property I own in Maine.
Basically I’m of the uneducated opinion that she needs to diversify her portfolio into something much safer than the individual company stocks of 4 or 5 different companies. The problem is the capital tax gains are crippling. She has no debt other than a $200 car payment but her health insurance is $1500/mo as she has been ineligible for assistance because of her stock holdings.
How can she protect what nest egg she has left? Does taking her ex’s social security now impact her drawing? Will she be Medicaid eligible with her stock holdings? I want to help her make sure she has enough money for the next 35 years as her family is extremely long lived. My spouse and I do well but we are behind on our retirement without worrying about supporting hers.
Thanks in advance!
Hey guys so recently I have been accepted and have the privilege to serve in the military(Air Force) I’ve taken my ASVAB and my physical, the last thing I have to do is take a specialized test for the career I’m going for which is in late June but I won’t know my ship out date till after. During this month things have come pretty fast my car was nearing the end of its lease and it didn’t make sense for me to keep it as I may be leaving soon their was a lot of drivin and miles do the payment came out to $2047. Now because I had to give my car up, I was gonna have no mode of transportation to my current job, so I turned in my 14 day resignation.
My last paycheck was able to cover the cost of my car and a few other bills I have. My mom is moving and so I’m able to crash with her until my ship out date. However I do have student and CC loans. $210 SL 1, $130 SL 3, $80 CC. I’m wondering if anybody knows a home job I can do on a computer just so I can have some extra income. I’m hoping I won’t have to wait to long before I leave. Just looking for side income.
Trying to get better about tracking my spending because I often use things like PayPal which don’t immediately come out of my bank account.
I stay very busy and need something that is as little as possible. Recommendations?
Not sure if this is the right spot situation as follows:
Background info, renting an Apartment in New Jersey, contacted a realtor in NJ, Not sure if posting the company causes legal trouble, will state if needed. I never signed anything with her and saw apartments.
So we found an apartment we like, we got brought the rental application process and everything gets settled in, we pay security, first months rent, sign the lease. We have to pay a fee to the listing agent and realtor, total of 1 months rent. And she said the fee is split between the two agents, okay, so two checks equaling the 1 months rent. Two weeks into renting the apartment. She sends us an online document to sign, it’s an disclosure agreement about the realtor company, which I believe we were supposed to sign before we looked at apartments. It basically says that singing it agrees to paying the realtor. The realtor agent seemed new.
Do I have to sign this, what happens if I don’t, what does it mean?
If more info is needed just ask
I have about 36k in Canadian dollars currently sitting in a high interest savings account with the online Canadian bank, EQ bank. The rate of interest generated from the bank is 2.3%. This option has worked for me because periodically I transfer money from the EQ bank to my regular account. Over the next year, I plan to use about 13k of the 36 and would like the money to be mostly accessible if an emergency arises. I want to make sure, however, that this is the best option to get the most interest on my money, also considering my preference to have the money accessible. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could be doing differently?
Just wondering if a person with an understanding of basic accounting is capable of doing their own taxes? Of course specialists understand the loopholes but besides that, is it possible? Thanks.
Thank you so much! I am INCREDIBLY bad with budgeting; I tried my hardest and I still feel so stressed. I'm 25/F, and I have an option between a two-year full-time program (couldn’t work, or barely at all) with a stipend, OR a three-year part-time program (I could work) with no stipend. (Both in SoCal.) I have 17k saved.
Option 1: If I did the stipend, I would have 9k off the bat to live on per year, and tuition would be clear. That gives me 35k initially to live on for two years. That’s 17k per year.
I probably wouldn’t have to take out loans. Extra money I could make through a combination of benefits and working part time (which would be very hard as a full time student.) But this would just be for two years.
Option 2: With the three-year program, I would have to pay tuition myself (25k total), but I would be able to work - full time at least for the first year, but most likely part time for the next two years. Say I make 25k the first year, (conservative but social work is valued low in our society) and then 12k for the next two years. Minus taxes (maybe around 7k), that gives me 59 total to start with, minus tuition (25k), leaves me 34k for three years. That’s 11k per year.
With a poverty budget of 1k a month (12k a year), it’s (barely) doable - I’d have to find a way to make an extra 1k a year. But it would be three years. I would be pretty poor and may have to take out small loans, and I already have 16k from undergrad (I will be deferring while I’m in grad school, and still.)
(Variables that could increase: If I make more than 12 an hour, if I work more than 20 hours a week for the last two years.)
Obviously the stipend looks better, BUT it comes with a requirement to be a CPS worker for two years after graduation, which...is not my ideal job (I want to be a therapist.) The 3-year program is also in a city I’ve already lived in, love, and have friends.
I know that either way I'm going to be super poor for a while. I've made my peace with that so I can do the work that's important to me! (Working with mentally ill populations.)
The numbers are estimates, but does anything look way off? Any advice for me on what I should do? I feel a bit overwhelmed considering I'll be living with the effects of this decision for a long time.
Hey everyone, I'm currently a student, however, I start a full time job at the end of the summer pending graduation. My problem is, I still need a couple of classes this summer to graduate and have a couple of other costly upcoming events I'll need to pay for. Ultimately, I'm probably going to need $7k-$8k to cover the expenses and do not qualify for financial aid.
What options are available?
I'm considering a credit card but I'm uncertain of the qualifications as well as the limit of the cards.
Any help would be seriously greatly appreciated.
Hi all, long story short I amassed about 10k in credit card debt while in undergrad for personal expenses and for law school admissions prep. I'm attending law school this fall and was wondering if I could get a private loan with only a cosigner to refinance the credit card debt and start paying it after law school when I get a full time job. Please help! Really want to get rid of this credit card debt.
I am a medical student who has been denied from entry level credit cards because I don't have income. I am currently on a secure credit card with $300 max. I have read that people report their student loan amount as their income and get approved. Will the feds find out about this/will I get in trouble? If not, should I get southwest credit card or Chase sapphire preferred? I have many upcoming flights and would like to grub on dem points, thanks for the insight!
As I enter my senior year, I am beginning to seriously consider my college options and financial situations associated with each of them. Throughout my schooling, I have always been a high achiever that strived to be the best student I could be. Luckily, that has payed off as I have stats and activities that could perhaps justify admission into an elite college. I’ve always been a strong supporter of graduating debt free and have always been set on my state school, but after doing some of the net price calculators for some private schools, it turns out they are more affordable than I thought.
Here are my two options:
* Attend my state school and graduate with $0 in debt
* Attend a prestigious university (think Yale, Duke, Georgetown, etc.) and graduate with most likely 20-30k in debt
Most of the private schools estimate a yearly contribution of 25k from my family. I’m thinking I can get about 5k a year from work, 3-5k a year from scholarship, and 10k a year from my family (the same amount they would pay for state school). If it worked out like this I would graduate with about 24k in debt. So is the debt I would take on to attend a better school justified?
So I took a gap year between undergrad and med school. I took a job and a 401k with it. I just ended this job and have about $2k in the 401k from the year. Should I cash it out to help with med school or is this a dumb idea? Didn’t know if this was a common thing or stupid to ask.
My 82 year old grandfather believed one of those pop ups saying his computer was infected and eventually agreed to give his credit card to someone for nearly $1600 for technical support. He told me about it about 2 days later so the first thing I did was help him dispute the charge.
The rep at Chase required me to tell them exactly why it was being disputed, saying it was a scam was not good enough. Eventually I settled on "Non-Receipt of Services or Merchandise." Now he has received the forms for this dispute and I'm not sure how to finalize this. A couple of the questions or information being asked for:
Will simply saying that a false or misleading internet ad tricked my grandfather into believing he needed their services be enough for the dispute? Will I need to provide much more information here?
Thanks for any help. Also just an FYI - I'm in IT so I have thoroughly removed all the junk they installed on his computer.
So I had a part time job at college where they didn't have a nearby Wells Fargo (bank I use currently) so I opened a PNC account to deposit money as there were many of those in the area. I have less than $100 combined in those PNC's checking/savings accounts now and I no longer deposit money there/haven't used it in about a year if not more. Could this affect my credit in anyway and should I call and close the accounts?
Edit: deleted a word
I just got an emergency savings built up, and want to start paying down my debts. I'm still new to all the details of how the interest works in my bigger loans (car/house etc...)
My question is, does the interest payment change after paying off big chunks of a loan? Here is an example I came up with to try to explain the question:
With this hypothetical car loan: $7,200 over 36 months at 5% interest, meaning my monthly payment is $210.
If I want to pay it off in 5 months, is there a difference between the two following scenarios:
Scenario 1: Pay $1,450 per month for 5 months for a total of $7,250 paid.
Scenario 2: Pay $210 ($1,050 total) and set aside $1,240 ($6,200 total) per month for five months, then pay off the loan for a total of $7,250 paid.
In scenario 1, would the interest payment change from $10 after paying the first large chunk, resulting in a lower total amount paid? Or is it going to be $10 for the life of the loan? Please let me know if I can clarify anything, or if I made improper assumptions in my example. The core of my question is whether or not it would make a difference to pay extra monthly, vs saving that and waiting until I have enough to pay the entire loan off all at once.
Hi /r/personalfinance. Long time reader, first time poster. I’m using a throwaway because too many friends know my usual handle. Sorry in advance for the novel and thanks very much to anyone who bears with me.
TL;DR: I have a shitty manager and just found out that Manager collects $150,000+ for doing nothing (because Manager published all of our pay rates and asked me to review the file). I currently make about half of that. Corporate leadership acknowledged that I have been doing Manager's job for years and told me that Manager will be transferred at the end of the year and I will be promoted. They don’t know that I know the salary. I’m overwhelmed and don’t know how much to ask for or to even let on that I know how much they have been paying my manager. What’s the best way to go about this?
I’ve worked for a company in a job I enjoy for the better part of a decade. I am one of two supervisors who functions under one manager. Manager was never a good manager, but has steadily declined in work performance and attitude over the years. Over time, Supervisor 2 and I have taken over all of Manager’s responsibilities. Meanwhile, Manager contributes nothing productive and does all kinds of bad shit ranging from 3-hour "work" days to making employees cry.
Part of the reason Manager got away with this for so long is because Manager’s manager was located in a different office and didn’t give two shits about checking in on Manager or our department. However, corporate leadership recently had a few long-awaited shake ups due to retirements. Both HR and new leadership have now acknowledged that Manager is a total asshat and began asking Supervisor 2 and I some pointed questions about Manager’s work (think Office Space: “what would you say Manager does here?”). Supervisor 2 and I were more than happy to oblige and spilled the beans on everything that has been going on for years now.
Corporate leadership acknowledged to us that Manager is not fit to be a manager and cannot be left in that position. They also told us that it’s clear to them that Supervisor 2 and I do all of the managerial work and should become dual managers, effectively eliminating the position above us.
Because Manager has no black marks on the HR record (a symptom of previously having a manager in a different office) and several friends in high places within the company, corporate leadership doesn’t feel comfortable with just giving Manager the boot. They’ve told us the plan is to reassign Manager to a different department, make sure Manager is no longer a manager, and promote Supervisor 2 and me to be co-managers of the department, effectively just how we run it now.
I am going to need to begin negotiating a salary for this new position over the next few months as this transition starts to occur. I have been really unsure what to ask for in terms of salary since I have effectively been doing the job without the technical title at my current rate of pay for several years. I worry that the corporate leadership might try to give me some token ($2k) raise and the new manager title and call it good because why would they pay me more for a job I’ve already been willing to do at this rate?
Then things changed a little.
Last week, Manager made a rate table for a contract bid publishing every person in our department’s pay, including Manager’s own. It actually didn’t even need to be made, but Manager is an idiot. Manager asked Supervisor 2 and me to review the bid and also allowed one of our lowest level employees to see the table as well. (Manager gives 0 fucks what that does to morale.) I discovered that Manager makes $153,000 base annually. That is presumably what the company believes a manager of my department deserves to make. I make less than half of that.
In light of this new information, I now feel that I should try to negotiate a much higher rate than I otherwise would have. I think $120,000 for both Supervisor 2 and me would be reasonable, but I’m looking for a gut check (and don’t worry, I know that I need to negotiate independently of Supervisor 2). I arrived at that number because I would technically be a new manager and because I understand the excess “manager money” would be split between Supervisor 2 and me.
Am I crazy for thinking that my company would give me $120,000 when I currently do the job for over $40,000 less? Or should I ask them for more than $120,000 in light of how much Manager makes?
Do I ask for $120,000 and then bring a print out of Manager’s rate table if they try to laugh me out the door? Is it unprofessional for me to even bring it up? Corporate leadership has no idea I know what Manager makes, and I honestly would have guessed a lot less.
I have no idea what I’m doing. Any advice on these negotiations would be much appreciated. :(
ETA: I should mention that my role is fairly critical to my company and they have no one on staff capable of backfilling for me. Even Supervisor 2 handles a different branch of our department, so wouldn't be able to take over my role. It is a niche position that would be difficult to find qualified candidates for quickly, so if I left, it would hurt them for an extended period of time. I think that this relative value is understood because corporate leadership has continually reached out to me to make sure I'm happy and not planning to leave before they correct the situation. This gives me a little hope for my relative negotiating power.
I only recently started caring about my credit and haven't had a problem getting cards. Have a credit score of 730-760, got approved for an AMEX 20k limit and Chase 10k limit 3 months ago. Plus my other 2 cards I have had for 10 years all in perfect standing with 0-1% utilization.
So I have had a debt from 2008 but last reported in 2013 (details here). I want to get rid of it so when future me goes to buy a house it doesn't become a problem also I am tired of seeing it on my report.
Now how do I go about it without it dropping my score? They don't do pay for deletes from the numerous forums and posts on reddit I have seen so that is out of the question.
If you are a fellow churner, I am wanting to double dip csp/csr next year if that helps.
I just graduated from college in May and am living back home. Career search has been slow, so I've recently acquired a part-time job in the meantime that will start in 6 days. 10.35/hr @ ~25 hours a week.
The last day of my lease is also in 6 days. I have an appointment tomorrow to go over my options on how to proceed and am worried I won't qualify for financing since I haven't started working yet. The job is 35 minutes from my home and no one will be able to drive me if I can't work something out. What are my best options?
Other information: Credit score is ~690, last verifiable job ended in October of last year (had money saved and quit to focus on final two semesters).
Pretty straightforward question. Chances are looking good that the soon-to-be-wife and I will be moving from NJ to AZ in the last quarter of next year. Hypothetical question: let's say I'm working at Wells Fargo, and I'm making $43k a year. If I request and am granted a transfer within the company when we go to AZ (meaning, I'm still with Wells in the same position), does that mean that $43k salary would follow me? Or would it get "adjusted" for the AZ equivalent?
I ask this, because I'm currently working in a bank that is only based in NJ and a few branches in PA. Clearly, I will not be working for this company when I move. So the thought that I have was to look at getting hired for a national bank (just an example, Wells Fargo), and when it's getting closer to moving-time, see about getting transferred to AZ but still staying within the company. I know they don't HAVE to grant me that transfer, but I guess I'm just saying "I'd hope it works out that way."
Once we've moved I'd be shifting my educational focus to something entirely different, so I'd just stay in banking to keep an income while I'm working on a certification in AZ.
Thank you for all input!
Today I tried to open a Zelle account through my mobile banking app. When I input my gmail and received the verification code, the app told me my gmail was already registered with chase bank and asked me if I wanted to switch it over to their bank. I declined because I wanted to figure out who opened up the chase/ zelle account in the first place because I have never had a chase bank account. I contacted zelle who told me they could only see that my gmail was registered through chase. I called chase who told me they couldn't find my gmail or social security number within their system. I just ran a credit check and couldn't find a chase account on my credit history. Is there anything I should do next and can I switch "my" gmail's zelle account to my current bank account?
I have a 401(k) profit sharing plan from my job. I have been contributing appro $400 per month since 2015 and I get the statement once a yr. my questions are if my employer retires or sold his practice or I change career, will I get the full vested amount? statement of 2017
I currently make about 115K/year in a lead software role. I had a good technical interview last week, followed by an HR type of meeting this week with an internal recruiter.
MAN it was hard to not give a number when asked about salary, but I punted to the recruiter and she said the typical figure is 115K, or exactly what I’m making now.
I responded that I needed to talk with the next more technical interviewer to see the full scope of this role, and basically stuttered and botched the execution of trying to delay a final answer to her question, but somehow she accepted it and we moved on.
So now I’ve had 2 decent interviews. They spoke first about salary and it’s the same I make now. In my area (Midwest US) I think 115/K is low average but I’m not sure what to do next when I’m asked again. I’d love to be in the 150s or 160s but I don’t know if that’s realistic.
I could say something like “I make 115 now, and was hoping to make a 25% jump in the next step in my career” or something like that.
It’s hard to tell using Glassdoor what software team leads should make in my area. West coasters make 300K and an employer here would laugh at that, I think.
I’ll take any advice you have. Thanks again for the help this far. Can’t I believe I held strong earlier when asked about salary. You all rock.
I am 28 years old, with no debt. I have 2 children, and a wife. $50k in emergency fund. We have invested zero. It just sits in a checking account.
We have our own business, which allows for a nice salary/life. However, we want to begin planning for our future retirement/children's college/their futures, if they ever need money.
I understand from my reading of the side that I should start a Solo 401K plan, but thats about as far as I got.
What else should I be regularly be contributing to? I hear so many of my friends talk about all the stocks, IRA's, 401k's, that they have. I feel kind of stupid with just a savings account.
I'm currently studying Korean, and I'm about to enter my junior year of college, pursuing my bachelors in graphic design. I've been thinking about whether I should save for a trip to Korea in 6 months for winter break, or if I should instead put that money into paying off my student loans while in college to chip away at my student debt, and then try to get a job in Korea.
I've thought about living there constantly; I've been infatuated with the culture since I was little, and it's part of my childhood. But I've never even been there, and I feel like I should get a taste of it first before planning on just up and moving there. However, I don't know if by 6 months I'll be comfortable enough to speak by myself, or if I'll even have saved up enough money just with a part-time job. And I feel like maybe I can chip away at my student debt instead of using that money for a trip.
I don't even know if trying to get a graphic design job after college in Korea as a foreigner is that plausible. The one thing I DO know is that you can teach English and they sometimes pay for your housing, plane ticket, etc. I've read a lot about how people can pay off their student debt in as little as a year or two with this option, with the combined low-cost living, and the salary. This sounds like something I'd like to do; I'd finish college, and then go to Korea to teach English. As for my graphic design degree...idk where that would come into play. I do know teaching English there would enable me to learn the language better, see if I even like living there, and pay off my student debt.
I guess my questions are this; should I visit Korea in 6 months during winter break for vacation, or wait until after college to just get a full-time job there? Should I not worry about paying my debt yet and just wait after college, and travel instead?
I come from a pretty poor family with a lot of debt, and want to make the right choices unlike them, but also want to pursue my dreams. I know I'm asking quite a few different questions in here. My brain is just a little bit scrambled with everything, haha.
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