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Jeremy is in the thread saying he'd like to do this in Netbox. If NFLX open sources it with a compatible license he could end up shipping it with Netbox as is.

https://twitter.com/packetlife/status/1024039004239474690

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I'm mostly just curious to see how they're modeling circuits on the back end. Representing physical cable paths without shooting yourself in the foot is a lot harder than you might think at first.

FYI we're putting out NetBox v2.4 next week, and physical cable paths will be the primary focus of v2.5.

How's the upgrade path looking? Last one bricked the web server and we ended up migrating the DB across to a new server.

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Same as it's always been. There's not much to it: Upgrade Python packages, run database migrations, collect static files, and restart the service (most of which is handled automatically by upgrade.sh). Not sure how you'd manage to brick a server doing that.

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I'm finishing my basement, and I had to bust up a section of the slab to run new drain lines. I hired a contractor to repair the slab once I was finished, and they did a pretty sloppy job. The patched surface sits a little higher than the original concrete surrounding it along most edges. I started scraping away at the concrete which overflowed the repair area, but realized I was just forming a raised edge.

Most of the area (toward the back corner) will be covered by a tile floor. The rest will be covered with luxury vinyl tile. What's my best best bet for mitigating any issues with the flooring? Can I just grind down the narrow portion of the patch to get it flat enough for LVT? Should I put backer board down for the tile to ensure a level surface, or can I set the tile directly on the floor as is? Any advice is much appreciated!

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4 comments

angle grinder with a diamond blade and a dust shroud connected to a vacuum would get the worst of it. Then pour a self leveling compound to completely level the floor. Otherwise, depending on how bendable your vinyl tiles are you might be able to just stick them on once the big ridge is gone.

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Original Poster1 point · 19 days ago

Is there a minimum depth you need to pour with self-leveling cement? I want to avoid adding much height to the floor (to avoid having to reconfigure the stair treads) but also don't want it cracking.

I learned the hard way that you now need to watch out for vendor lock-in of water filters. My new GE fridge has an RFID reader and will stop dispensing water entirely if the filter is not GE-branded (or is older than six months). There's a hack to use a GE tag to make a generic filter work, it's just an unnecessary inconvenience.

I loved Longmire! It draws a lot of parallels to older Westerns and stuff, similar to Justified. Not quite as big of a cast, but it's pretty character driven as well. I'd highly recommend it

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Also, a lot of supporting actors who were in Justified make an appearance or two. Choo-choo is the only one I remember offhand.

I recently started finishing my basement and I don't know why I didn't think of doing this. Thanks!

How is it intended to be used? Seems unlikely that it would be within code, but I could be wrong. Typically if a stud is damaged or too short, you just replace the whole thing.

What about stairs? Raising the floor 1 5/8" will likely require reconfiguring the treads to stay within code.

I would run sistered 2x8s or 2x10s on hangers perpendicular between two of the joists, and hang the chair in the middle. That way you're splitting the load across both joists. Not certain that would be sufficient, though.

CAT5e or CAT6 will work fine so long as you can get the cable where you need it to go. The exterior wall might be tricky because you'll have to push/pull it past the fiberglass insulation inside the wall. It's easiest to run bulk cable and then terminate the ends once it's in place, but in a pinch you might be able to get by with a pre-terminated cable of sufficient length.

Someone else mentioned powerline networking, but if you have a coax (cable) outlet in the room, also look into getting a pair of MoCA bridges.

Not blinds, but you can get pull-down shades that mount between posts. Some of them look pretty nice.

I can finally start filling in the giant hole in my basement floor! I had to install new drain lines for a future bathroom and kitchenette. Took me two 24-hour jackhammer rentals to break up the slab. This was my first time doing any real work with PVC, but I'm proud to report that the lines held water for 12+ hours with no issue and I just passed my inspection this morning. Now to put all that dirt and gravel back in and figure out the concrete work.

Also, is there a correct way to remove a 4" ball from a test tee after an inspection so the water doesn't spray everywhere? Asking for a friend.

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I'm installing drainage for a basement bathroom, and the shower pan drain is situated almost on top of the 4" main waste line. Can I use two 45-degree bends between the drain the P trap to offset the trap a few inches to the side? It'll still be well within 24" of vertical distance between the drain and the trap.

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I would definitely try to get the washer and dryer out of the bathroom. What is separating the shower from the W/D hookups right now? If you can knock out that wall you may be able to avoid a lot of plumbing work. You could just extend the current shower alcove and put the linnen closet on the other side.

Noise will travel through just about anything to some degree. The drain tube will carry noise fairly well. Remember when you were 32 6 years old and would talk through a paper towel tube? Same thing.

You might be able to install some form of barrier outside to prevent noise from entering the drain pipe. A tiny wall of bricks surrounding the outlet might help, provided you don't impede the flow of water out of the drain.

32

We moved into a new construction home recently and the builder left us only a small amount of the original Sherwin-Williams paint. My wife went to pick up an extra gallon of the color used throughout most of our house from the Sherwin-Williams store, but the salesperson there told her that because it's a new construction house it was probably painted with "factory mix," and that the retail paint would probably differ. She couldn't elaborate on how it would differ, just that it wouldn't look the same. She said the factory mix is only available in five-gallon quantities.

Has anyone experienced this? I would think that the same brand, color, and finish (flat) would be consistent. Is this marketing code for "your builder used a lower-quality paint?"

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They have all different products, some of which they only sell to Pros. There are grades of all of their paints. What is the exact type of paint on the can. Pro-mar? Tell us the line and we can tell you.

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Original Poster3 points · 1 month ago

Unfortunately the remnant paint has been repackaged in smaller generic containers with handwritten labels. The only original containers I have are five-gallon buckets of "SuperPaint," but those are exterior paints. I'll see what I can find out from the builder.

Do you want full cabinets on both sides of the fridge? You could gain some counter space by forgoing those and just wrapping the fridge with side panels. That might open up enough space for the stove against the rear wall.

Well sure. But when you have 30 guns, you're a collector, not (necessarily) a prepper.

You can be both a gun collector and prepper, or a hardcore prepper only who solely owns guns as emergency tools in case of need.

What confuses me is how you suspect that a large portion of preppers just want to live out an apocalyptic fantasy, but then bring up people with 30 guns as an example. I just think you're missing how certain parts of preparing for emergencies, specifically collecting and shooting guns, can be very enjoyable and can become a hobby aside from actually improving preparedness.

Yes, I've met the 3 percenter preppers arming themselves against an "inevitable government program to disarm and enslave Americans," but there's reasonable 3 percenters too -- that want to be ready for the next revolt without actually trying to cause it. Frankly, preparing for disasters is something that inherently attracts people with paranoid personalities or even mental problems, so it will always be easy to find crazies, but I think it's a mistake to assume that letting a gun collection get a bit out of hand is related to apocalyptic fantasies.

There's just so many different guns with different features, use cases and price points, it's hard to buy guns and shoot them regularly to build skills and not have a wish list.

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But when you have 30 guns, you're a collector, not (necessarily) a prepper.

Right. The key here is whether someone has 30 different guns (i.e. a collection) or 30 of the same gun.

Should be pretty easy to just patch and paint the drywall, then install whatever holder you like. Screw some short 1x4 material inside the wall on either side of the hole, then screw a new piece of drywall the size of the hole to them. Spackle, sand, paint and you're done. The option is to go with a recessed holder, which I assume is what was there before.

Original Poster27 points · 1 month ago

Also, we close on Wednesday. I did not see a single box?

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65 points · 1 month ago · edited 1 month ago

This is probably a much more pressing concern than the countertop. If you're under contract to close on Wednesday the house should be empty and almost ready for a final walkthrough by now.

When you say "tenants," are these literally tenants leasing part of the house? If so, their lease probably protects them from having to move out until it terminates. I would raise these concerns with your/the seller's agent immediately.

I'm confused. The live wire warning just indicates that there's electrical running nearby (within a foot or two). Electrical is typically horizontally run close to the floor so it makes that it would be seen lower and not higher. This has no bearing on where the studs are placed though. Does the stud finder indicate the presence of a stud where you want to mount the shelf?

Some thoughts from a former 3C2 (back when it was a thing):

  1. Take every opportunity to build your professional network. As I'm sure you know, military contracting is very much a good ol' boys (and gals) club. For better or worse, who you know will easily put you ahead of what you know 9 times out of 10 in that industry.

  2. Start a detailed journal now documenting every project you work on. When you prepare to separate, this will make it much easier to write your resume.

  3. Volunteer to own every project you can. Coming from a military background, it's trivial to attach yourself to an impressive-sounding project while contributing very little. When interviewing, you want to be able to describe to prospective employers how you led a project, not just contributed to it.

Original Poster11 points · 1 month ago

Jeremy Stretch like from the website packetlife? Dude, your articles are the greatest! so nice and clear all the time.

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Thanks! I kinda let the site languish though...

4 points · 1 month ago

This site is my lifeline. I share it with so many people. Please let us know if you need help keep it running!

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Not help so much, but if someone could figure out how to add another three hours to each day that would be super.

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Im right there with you on Netbox issue 20. I am really really keen to see something happen there but its been open for a couple of years now and not much has happened so im not holding my breath.

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It'll be a focus of v2.5.

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Location: North Carolina

A few months ago I bought a new GE refrigerator, and just recently I decided to change out the original water filter as the rate of flow had decreased significantly. I looked up the filter model number (RPWFE) on Amazon and found a lot of generic RPWF (no "E") filters which look identical to mine but specifically say "does not work with RPWFE". After a little digging, I found out that GE has installed an RFID reader in the fridge next to where the water filter is installed. If it does not detect a GE-brand filter, the water/ice dispenser refuses to function. It's essentially a form a DRM for refrigerators.

The GE filters retail for $50 each. Third-party filters (which would be fully compatible if not for lacking the RFID chip) go for around $12.

That the manufacturer restricts the use of third-party filters is not advertised and was not disclosed to me prior to purchase. (Had it been, I obviously wouldn't have bought the fridge.) It's now past the return deadline so the store won't take it back, and GE of course has been no help.

I realize this probably seems a little petty, but the surprise requirement for $50 filters adds $500 to the cost of ownership over five years. Do I have any recourse against GE here? Or is this just another life lesson that you can't take anything at all for granted these days?

Edit: I should point out that the off-brand RPWF filters are proven to be physically compatible with the fridge. There's a workaround where you can take the RFID chip off a bypass filter and tape it to the reader inside the fridge. It will dispense wtaer happily through the RPWF filter so long as it detects the chip.

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12 points · 1 month ago

That the manufacturer restricts the use of third-party filters is not advertised and was not disclosed to me prior to purchase.

Neither a manufacturer nor a retailer normally must make that kind of disclosure. Did anyone tell you that third-party filters would work?

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Original Poster-1 points · 1 month ago

Nope, didn't think it was something I needed to ask. Lesson learned for next time, I guess.

Litigating this issue would cost more than $500, with an uncertain (at best) outcome.

Presumably the filter required for the refrigerator was identified on the specification sheet. You undoubtedly had the expectation that the refrigerator would work with a third party filter. But GE did not do anything to give you that expectation, and GE undoubtedly has an argument about the RFID functionality protecting you from substandard filters or a filter in use past the usable life of that filter.

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Original Poster-3 points · 1 month ago

Yeah, I figured this was probably the case. Just really sucks having to vet everything about an appliance that used to just be a box that was cold inside. I'm sure they'd sell you a separate license to cool organic food if they could figure out how.

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36 points · 2 months ago

Wow, first Ikea and now this. I wonder if there's not more to the story.

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I think Wegman's is planning to build a store nearby on Davis Drive.

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