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6 points · 2 hours ago

I do not know that that is complete crap. I do think anyone working a full time job should be able to afford, at minimum, to support themselves in a studio with basic necessities. This is not so revolutionary an idea, it's literally what a minimum wage should aim to support, a single person in a single person living unit. This is reasonable, the only thing standing in the way of this, is shifting that money to the top of the organizations that employ minimum wage people to feed share holders more and more of the pie every year while the rest of us pick up most of the tab of supplementing walmart employees wages with food stamps. Walmart should be paying enough for people to not require them. There's enough money in this country to give everyone a good standard of living and also have enough free capital for people to compete over.

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The issue is "basic necessities" - is a cell phone included? What about internet access, how about AC? Better yet - do you need to live in Orlando - can you move out to Apopka or Eustis where housing is cheaper.

The other issue is "shifting money to the top" - so we should punish people that run successful business? Why should Walmart have to pay more - that would raise their prices and affect their bottom line, meaning they are at risk of losing profit and having to downsize.

The main thing is people can support themselves, just not at the level they WANT. Needs are covered, Wants are not. The problem is almost everyone has confused the two. Needs: shelter, clean water, food, clothing. Wants: 'nice home' near everything or with tons of space, other drinks like coffee/beer/soda, diverse food options including fresh and out of season options, name brand clothing - as well as stuff like AC, cell phones, computers, cars, vacations, etc.

People can absolute survive off of minimum wage if they had to (Even without additional help like food stamps) - but people don't want to live that life, so they spend more then complain about debt and how the system is against them.

4 points · 1 hour ago

AC and internet access and phones are necessities, try finding a job without one. Entertainment and security are needs, not wants, yes a minimum wage should support living a comfortable life.

It's not a matter of punishing success it's a matter of having a system of taxation that doesn't allow a multinational like walmart to drive all competition in an area out of business then become one of the only local employers of unskilled labor, and pay starvation wages that necessitate their employees getting food stamps. You can tax shit higher, business isn't going to stop, if walmart packs up because taxes make it unprofitable, someone will happily jump in to fill the void. Their model only works because the lack of protections and assurances for workers. OK you want me to move out of orlando to ocoee or ocala or something well, the only jobs that exist there are these minimum wage jobs that no one can support themselves with, let alone go to school to better their prospects.

I would applaud any loss of walmart jobs because they're parasitic on the taxpayer. They drive out competing jobs and replace them with jobs that require taxpayers to supplement their employees wages with food stamps and madicaid so they don't die. Working multiple jobs usually isn't an option either due to these companies entitlement to their employees lives, and usually require open availability, then don't give enough hours for anyone to be full time and entitled to health insurance. This really isn't that complicated a game, or anything new, we're just finally reaching a breaking point.

And yes, this is the central issue, is that the life people can live at minimum wage with no supplemental income is undesirable, inhumane even, the point is that it should not be undesirable or inhumane, it should be secure enough for sustainment.

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I would applaud any loss of walmart jobs

When was the last time you shopped at any of these stores: Walmart, Amazon, Target? They all act the same (hell Amazon is starting to act worse than Walmart). Do you talk with your dollars?

What if we stretch that to any company that has over 50% of their workforce earning less than the $34k/yr or $16.67/hr that the article has stated as needed to live in Orlando. Do you use any company or service that doesn't pay at least half of their workforce what you have identified as the livable wage?

Lets jsut look at food. Places that likely don't pay over the livable wage to at least 50% of the work force: all supermarkets even Publix, fast food, sit down restaurants, casual restaurants like Chipotle, delivery services. How do you eat if you are only trying to support companies that pay at least half of their workforce a living wage? Only way I can see is likely 5-star level restaurants, which isn't really affordable on any budget.

Again - why should someone making $17k/yr be expected to be comfortable, have all the luxuries of modern life, and live alone? How is expecting someone who can't afford those things to live with less (like roommates god forbid) unreasonable?

I agree the minimum wage is low, but at the same time, paying more isn't going to fix the issue. Teaching people to control their spending and live on what they make is the answer, but that means people don't get what they want, so they don't listen.

And I personally don't see living in a 3 bd apartment with roommates, without cable, cooking at home, bring my lunch to work, and other cost saving things like a proper AC setting (65 in winter, 78 in summer) as "inhumane". Hell, I lived on worse than that in college (4bd apartment) and it wasn't inhumane. but once you graduate it now is since you are working?

I found that color is a big factor. People get 'afraid' of anything darker than bud light. So I'd look at staying as light as possible until they get that color means next to nothing.

That said - pilsner is a good option. Cream Ale works as well. A very sessionable Pale can fit the bill as well.

Doing what exactly?

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anything. you are making less than $10k - which means you aren't a full time employee. Get a job, any job. Just apply, get job, work job, get income.

It's simple. Put in some effort - you know more than you did into this comment.

It really depends on the job. I cannot work most positions from a head injury or if they do a background check.

It takes a lot of effort to even focus on typing.

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then do something like stocking shelves or unloading trucks. Neither of those require typing.

Hell, manual labor would work. Even washing cars. tons of jobs - just try.

23.9k points · 5 hours ago

Similar, but I don't know where else to put it because it just makes me laugh. My aunt is a nurse in the maternity ward. She had a couple come in where they were both very black. Lady has baby and it is white AF. Like, totally pale, no trace of any pigment. They put the baby on her mom and the mom starts yelling about how this isn't her baby and they stole her baby (in all fairness, you can be very confused during/after delivery, it wasn't stupidity), just sobbing and freaking out and the father is just sitting there and looks very confused becasue even he's realizing that even if she did cheat, there is no way the baby would be THAT white. The doctor and nurses are trying to assure her that this is her baby and the skin usually darkens later.

Come to find out, when he called his mom, she pointed out that they have a second cousin who is albino and maybe baby got that gene. Turns out that's what happened- baby was albino.

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I just pushed this baby out - it aint mine!

Would it be awkward to get dna tested if you are the mom?

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well the dad was cheating, so why shouldn't she get it checked?

I don’t really want/need a third credit card. I’d also rather not have another inquiry rn. Hoping that I can upgrade one of them, and that it will retain the age of my previous card.

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asking for the upgrade is likely going to hit your credit anyways. You can call and ask about it, but it will likely be a new hard pull.

As for the age staying with it - I've seen it go both ways, so again asking CapOne is likely the best way to find out what they tend to do.

Just called them, they let me upgrade w/ out creating an inquiry or hurting the age of it. The only thing that changes is the card/rewards type.

And thanks for the help, much appreciated.

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nice, good job.

you will be charged on both - the toll lane has no way to tell that it is the same car, so it will charge each pass.

As for the better option - in terms of ease of use - they are exactly the same, both give a discount for use (cheaper than the listed cash price), both use the same technology and are accepting in NC and GA (and likely more places in the future).

Main difference I've seen is if you hit a lot of tolls (20+ tolls/month) then you can start getting a greater discount if you have EPass. See here: https://www.cfxway.com/e-pass/e-pass-discounts/

Partner and I are approaching marriage. I ran into a couple posts about people choosing not to get legally married for awhile because of the negative tax implications. Is there a reputable calculator out there that can help us accurately calculate tax changes we should expect? And would any negative tax repercussions be avoided if taxes were filed separately instead of jointly, even if we are still legally married? Thanks in advance!

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in the past there was a "marriage penalty" when you had 2 equal incomes in a marriage. Basically the marriage amount was less than twice the single amount (say single was $75k the marriage amount would be something like $135k rather than $150k) meaning you pay higher taxes than if you were 2 single people. However, the latest round of tax changes has removed it.

If you look at the tax brackets - the marriage amounts are twice that of the single amounts - so there isn't a 'marriage tax' anymore.

The issue with 2 "married filing separately" returns is there are certain tax deductions that you will not qualify for when filing like that. So not saying that it is or isn't worth it, but there is more effort involved.

Personally - I've checked both methods (joint vs 2 separate returns) and have ended up on the joint return since I've been married.

I was recommended to rack from my plastic primary to a secondary after 5 days. My fermentation seems to still be going strong from the bubbles at least. Will there be any sort of issue with this? I plan to leave it in the glass secondary for 10-14 days

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racking it tends to cause a bit more fermination as it mixes stuff up a bit, but no real issues unless you are planning to bulk age it for a long (like month+) period.

I personally do this exact thing every time I'm making a normal beer.

replacement keggerator. My current keggerator gave up after a few years of hard service and I've been looking for a new one. However everything I see is for a brand new system - but I already have the tower, CO2 and all the hoses - so is there a replacement system somewhere that I can't find? Looking for something that can fit 2 cornies, and opens to the front.

Anyone know of a "just fridge" keggerator, or even a good fridge ti buy then DIY?

Thanks

I just sold an item on eBay for a friend of mine, which involved taking photos, listing the item, shipping it, and going to the ATM. He agreed to pay me a cut for my services. The grand total after shipping and fees was $360. Before I meet him, how much should I be prepared to ask for? Would 20% be reasonable? Thanks.

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depends on the actual profit of the item. If the item cost the friend $300 and you ask for 20%, that means the friend is actually losing $12 on the transaction.

So I would look at the profit and then ask for something like 40-50% of that depending on the amount of time you put into it. If this was an hour then maybe only $20, but if it was half a day - then more would make sense.

He bought it a while ago, and actually paid around the same for it, so the profit was somewhat minimal. He was just trying to liquidate it, it seems.

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in that case its more are you trying to help a friend or make a profit. This is kind of a personal question, as you know the friend and there situation - but I'd likely just charge a bit for my time over asking for a % of something they are barely breaking even on.

There's a game I like to play. Go to Wikipedia. Think of anything, a person, a thing, or an idea. Then click "random article".

The goal is to find the page for the thing you thought of only using links on other pages starting with the random article.

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6 degrees of Kevin Bacon - click random article and you have 6 clicks to get back to Kevin Bacon. No "back" allowed.

Also a good option for friends - start at the same random article then you have 2 minutes to get to kevin bacon - lowest number of clicks wins. Backs are allowed here as the goal is to beat your friend with a closer link.

I think you are taking the wrong approach. Just don't be a brown nose. you are just looking to stir the pot and make it a difficult work environment for those left once you are gone.

you can do stuff like questioning a bad idea or eye rolls at terrible jokes (really bad fake laughs work too). but telling people off will do nothing positive. If someone is a dick - call them out on it, but don't be a bigger dick back. If someone is shit to be around - then don't be around them.

but the make more independent decisions - well that is just you taking the initiative. Not deferring to sr managers - well you don't want to waste their time with a low level issue, so you made the choice. Honestly - you should be doing this even if you aren't FI, this is a sign of a good employee.

working at gym (sure you have to wipe down machines, but the only real manual labor is reracking weights). did this in college and it was fun, lots of down time, laid back atmosphere.

Working in a smoothie/ice cream shop. Never did this, but seems like an easier food service type job, but tends to be inside and not around boiling oil or stoves making it really hot.

Barista - I don't see why people shit on this job. It's making coffee or coffee flavored ice drinks. Sure it's not savings the world, but what else that pays minimum wage is?

Seasonal work - like working on a Christmas tree lot or fireworks stand. I just always wanted to do this. not sure about the work all weekends though. but I would try it for one season at least.

Theme parks - they always need front line employees, lots of flexible scheduling, and free admission on your days off. Downside of likely retail or standing in the sun all day.

Other things I've thought of but not sure yet:

Work in a Bakery. I like cooking, but hate working in restaurants. This seems like it might be fun.

kid league football/soccer/basketball coach - might be a bit weird once I don't have kids on the team or in even in the league though. Plus parents are awful, worst that most customers. Also my wife says I'm too mean to kids - so not sure if the kid level is right (and high school tends to require more scouting/planning time, so likely going to be pushing into my relaxation time).

animal shelter - don't sure how much I could take cleaning up shit all day, but it is fun to have lots of doggos.

It depends. I put 10% down on my house and I have PMI. Between making payments, improvements, and the market improving; I'm in a position where I should own over 20% in equity if I got an appraisal. However I contacted my loan company and they require the appraisal to net 25% equity to remove PMI and I'm not there yet. Re-financing, you may still be able to get rid of PMI with an 80% equity loan. Whether that still saves you money by extending your loan term or getting a different interest rate, that's another story.

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even if they extend your loan term - you can still pay the old amount and likely pay it off at the same time or sooner (depending on the interest rate). just because your minimum payment went down (since now a lower balance is stretched over more years) doesn't mean you can't keep paying the old amount.

13 points · 4 days ago · edited 4 days ago

I also have the option to take those extra $511.60 payments and put it into the market and make twice that amount on returns without having to refinance.

It's all just risk tolerance.

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or if you lose your job, wreck your car and your dog gets sick I nthe same day - you have $512/month less that you are required to pay until you can get your shit back together.

Gonna be moving in with the girlfriend soon. How much did you guys budget for full furnishings? Each room?

And couches...full price is expensive and I know thrifting is the move, it just seems kind of gross?

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main thing is think of the total life of the furniture and your nearish term future - i.e how long at this house before having to move everything?

If you find getting a used couch off craigs list is 'gross', then what about getting something like a $500 couch that can be replaced or sold in a couple years. Still a lot, but better than a $2,000 couch that might not even fit the next place you move - plus the costs of moving it.

Personally we bought used almost everything. New mid-tier bed from a "Bob's Discount Mattresses" type store. But the rest was used - mostly from family, friends or craigslist. I knew we were going to keep moving until we settled down longer term and I didn't want to have to move my $2,000 investment couch.

Lastly - don't think you have to furnish every room when you move in. Get a bed, a table and something to sit on. The rest can be filled in when you find good deals.

2 points · 4 days ago

Yeah, that's the part I get.

The part I don't get is how to evaluate whether it's beneficial to do or not, specifically if I end up getting a new job within the purchasing timeframe (aka before I can cash out).

Sorry if that wasn't clear!

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I left a job 'mid period' before - while all places could vary - basically I just lost the ability to add more to the account, but it still vested/bought at the same time as everyone else. Worst case is they cash you out at the time you leave. It's your money, so they can't keep it. Most they can do is hold it hostage until the normal buy date.

Eh 98% of Americans don’t give a shit about that sport

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But most of the world does. And they will be travelling. And we will have both the theme park tourists and the soccer ones. And you think I4 is bad now

Has anyone on here ever used a professional resume writing service? Does anyone have any specific, recent suggestions?

I know some people think these services are worthless, but I have been trying for over a year to break into a new industry and get myself out of the feedback loop of being perpetually stuck, underemployed, in dead-end laboratory work with no hope for escape or a reasonable salary. I'm at desperation levels of stress.

I tried the LinkedIn search where you get 5 quotes back, but all I got back were terrible form letters that read like cheesy spam emails and very expensive. Replace the words "penis enlargement" with "resume" in any spam email and you'll have a good idea of what I'm talking about.

Maybe I just answered my own question....

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you get your resume checked out on /r/resumes? Or if there is a sub for your profession. a lot of times just another set of eyes on a resume can help clean it up greatly.

Next is are you applying to the proper jobs. If you have 10yrs xp but are looking to switch industries, maybe you should be looking for a lvl 2 or 3 job rather than the level 4 your xp says you should be at.

Lastly - are you tailoring your resumes to the industry or job? Especially when trying to move industries you need a strong cover letter to show how your 'unconventional work history' is actually a huge bonus for the company.

Thanks so much for your suggestions! I have not tried r/resumes! I will give them a look after I get home today.

As far as switching industries, I have been looking at entry level jobs. There are not "levels" in lab sciences except for arbitrary "levels" that HR imposes to keep people from getting raises (everyone is still doing the same stuff).

I have spent an unreasonable amount of time trying to fine tune my resumes for each specific type of job. All of this effort is going unnoticed and has done nothing but waste my time. I do not know how to write a strong cover letter, apparently. I do have a couple of paragraphs that I re-use each time, but I spend at least two paragraphs making it obvious that I read the job description and have researched the company. I don't think anyone is reading it.

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it might be that you are looking too low. When I was hiring for entry level, someone with 10 yrs XP is a red flag. Maybe go up a level or two (again, we are looking at the HR levels).

Also - the people at /r/resumes can help with cover letters as well. Mine is about 80% the same (or 1 of the 3 base letters) with a paragraph talking about the actual job. It takes a lot to write a good one - but something you can do is read 15-20 of them (honestly read a ton so you are sick of them, much like a hiring manager) and the see what parts you start skimming and what parts you read. Personally, I ignore the first "I found the job on Monster!" paragraph and jump to the middle to where the applicant talks about how they are a good fit. I also ignore the end (contact me here or here or here). I like having that for the future, but don't really read it. But then again someone else might feel completely different.

Also - 1 page, short paragraphs (like no more than 6-7typed lines), crisp and clean writing. decent amount of white space, professional looking (no misspelling, proper header, format, sign line, etc). When I'm hiring I'm looking for reasons to trash a resume on the first pass - don't give those reasons.

Moderator of r/personalfinance, speaking officially1 point · 7 days ago

"AskReddit-style" posts, polls, and surveys aren't allowed on this subreddit so this post has been removed (rule 1).

2 points · 7 days ago

Generally speaking if a recession were to occur and you have available cash laying around, what are some things to invest in that would grow afterwards during a recovery or to buy before the recession hits? Bonds? Index funds (because they'd be 'on sale')? Just brainstorming.

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time in > timing.

that said, your question doesn't make sense - if you were to know when a recession is going to hit (you know, the one the TV heads have been saying is just around the corner for 7 years) then you want to buy at the bottom of the recession, not "before the recession hits".

but generally - if you think the stock is a good price/value now, then if the price dropped 10% then it would only better a better value. When looking long term (10+ yrs) the market will recover and that is when you will really gain some solid wealth

just want to say that this day was the first time I guessed my orders correctly. I feel that is a sign.

For freelance work, ,can someone just tell me a flat percent rate I should be setting aside for taxes? I'll likely make around $30,000 freelance maybe more. I've been setting aside 30% of all my paychecks. Is that right? Not enough?

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15.7% + marginal tax rate.

So 25% plus 15.7% for federal? Plus state taxes?

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yup. The 15.3% is "self employment tax" - note that for normal W2 employees it is usually employee pays 7.7% (Medicare, Social security, etc) and the company pays the other 7.7%. As a self employed person you get to pay both parts.

My Dad would like to stay in equities he is just trying to out my Mom at ease due to her irrationality. Happy wife happy life as they say. Life expectancy is probably mid 90s as they both have mother's still alive that age in perfectly fine health. As far as their health issues go both are in good health though Mom has had cancer previously (decade ago). Their costs, which worry me, are 160k a year (their estimates). I honestly don't have a clue what the hell they are spending so much on though I do know they travel a ton and I a luxurious way.

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what could help is to get them to either set up a mock budget or figure out what they spent last year.

But $2.1M and $160k/yr don't mesh. They are closer to $80k/yr at their current numbers, and that is assuming they stay in equities.

sometimes getting numbers on paper will help. it might make your mom see that there is a solid plan in place even after dad dies. It might make them see that they spend a ton on travel and to keep it up it means another 5yrs of working before they can retire, or dropping the travel budget a bit to retire now. Or it could be that they don't actually spend $160k and just "feels like that much".

It's much easier to move forward with numbers on paper.

As for how to approach the situation - assuming you can't be open and honest about money with them - ask to see the numbers from the FA by saying something like you want to see what the retirement budget looks like so you can better plan if you are on track or not. Basically try to treat them like a good example as a way to see their numbers. Might be the FA did some crazy stupid math - if he is trying to get them into an annuity I'm thinking he's more salesman than FA.

In all my tax advantage retirement accounts I put all my money into ETF index funds and mutual funds. For taxable accounts do you guys stick with the index funds or get a little creative and buy individual stocks?

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why would the tax treatment matter on the amount of risk you are willing to take? Individual stocks are by their nature riskier than index funds. If you feel that the index route is worth it in your retirement accounts, why would your normal account be different?

Original Poster8 points · 10 days ago

Eh, I'm not in NYC and my grades aren't the greatest so I'll probably never work at the prestigious law firms, so $150,000 is probably more than I'll ever make unless I go out on my own, which everyone says is extremely stressful.

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as others have said - I don't think grades matter as much now. They help with the first job, but not the 2nd. Your experience, case record, ability to bring in clients/cases, etc is what will land you the next job.

Not saying that you should or shouldn't give up the one you have, but I don't see the grades as that big of a hurdle anymore.

Mens semi florida finishes

4x100: 1

110m hurdles: 2

Wtf is with this 400m hurdle qualifying skipping our guy?!

4x400: 3

We'll have 4x100, 4x400, high jump, triple jump (2 guys), 110m hurdles to pull from tomorrow

FSU has a disturbing number of finalists. Fuck that

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Wtf is with this 400m hurdle qualifying skipping our guy?!

Top 2 in each heat get auto qualified (Q), so that is 6 lanes. Then it is the next 2 fastest times overall to get qualified (q).

Our guy hit 3rd in his heat, so didn't get the Q, and his time wasn't fast enough to get the q either.

Comment deleted11 days ago

link only post yes - but a self post that includes the link and a write up on what you got from the article is allowed. And if you are posting an article, don't you think a minimal write up is something that should be expected?

Can't you just continue to push into a later TDF though? I 3-fund my taxable account and TDF my Roth IRA and 401k and my plan was to just push into the 2070 fund after a few years and then continue to push it back to stay aggressive as the years pass. Curious if there's a fatal flaw to that strategy.

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why take the time and effort to change what year you are invested into - and just turn it into a 3Fund once you have enough?

The reason you are moving from 2060 to 2065 to 2070... is to keep the AA closer to what you want - so why not take out the middleman then? I can understand it if you only have a bit in the account and can't properly diversify (especially in an IRA with fund minimums). but I'm assuming after a few years the issue won't be with the account balance. So if you care enough to move from 2060 to 2065 due to its AA, why not just move to a 3fund and have complete control?

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