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Generally speaking, the better the print quality, the less post processing work you will need to do. If you have a fantastic print, you can probably get away with a few coats of primer and then painting it. If it looks like you made it with a 3D pen, you will probably spend a lot more time sanding it.

2 points · 1 day ago

I see the logic of where you're going, but I wouldn't immediately say it is not USPS's fault. Shipping logistics can be a nightmare.

I'd say if this becomes a repeating pattern, though, there's a better chance it is a fault of the company, not USPS.

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This IS a repeating pattern for Maker Geeks though, maybe not the exact scenario but in general. See the countless threads here with people waiting weeks, if not months (as was my case) for their orders. I personally didn't get a single response from them on any channel until I took to Twitter, where I was told my order from months prior would go out in 24 hours. Then... when someone followed up again on my behalf weeks later, they said I should contact them with a freaking winky face at the end...

There is absolutely no reason anyone should be buying from them at this point. They screw over far too many customers to justify their half decent deals.

I envy you people with Zbrush skills....

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I've tried Zbrush a few times, best I ever got was a blob with a smiley face and horns, and that was after hours of experimenting. How long it must take to learn to do stuff like this boggles my mind.

The D-Bot is probably the most well documented DIY CoreXY build and can be easily adapted to various sizes. I used my Maker Select to print all the parts for it in PETG, and built it with 300x300x400 dimensions.


In the past, I've usually just tinkered with the ABL sensor mounting to get the position as close as possible, but this isn't exactly optimal which you are talking fractions of a millimeter.

I've been messing with the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER and M851 commands in Marlin, but from what I can tell, neither of these do what I need. When I home/probe, I need the nozzle just a hair lower than where the sensor is being triggered, roughly about 0.05mm or so. I've tried setting this with M851 Z-0.05; but that doesn't seem to work.

I also tried the LCD Screen -> Control -> Motion -> Probe Z Offset as well. Adjusting this didn't seem to move anything in real-time, and running auto home afterwards didn't show any noticeable changes.

What is the correct way to fine tune the ABL sensor positioning via the settings? There has to be some way to give the probe an offset from where it actually triggers, allowing it to lower past that by a certain amount.


You need to enable it in the configuration_adv.h file. I don't know if it is fully supported by the TH3D firmware but the define is there.

Original Poster1 point · 3 days ago

That looks pretty darn epic. Thanks!

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You can't beat the build guide for the D-Bot, Spauda did a fantastic job documenting it. Parts list is a bit out of date with some broken links, but easy enough to find working ones elsewhere.

Have you actually confirmed that the X axis is level? Since the Ender-3 only has one lead screw (on the left side) and the right side is held in place with wheels, it can sometimes slouch down on that side and requires the eccentric nuts on the v-wheels to be tightened.

If you have a bubble leveler, just sit it on the x-axis beam and make sure it's pretty close. If it is heavily tipped one direction, you will want to tighten up those wheels, it's impossible to level the bed if the X axis isn't level.

Original Poster2 points · 3 days ago

This is a very good point, although I've already done this and I just can't get the bed levelled in each corner because there is always one levelling knob that is too loose or too tight to adjust anymore :/

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1 point · 3 days ago · edited 3 days ago

If all else fails, try starting from scratch on the leveling process. I do this once in a while and tighten all 4 corners down completely, then go around and loosen each the same amount (such as 4 turns or so) to bring them all up towards the nozzle together until it gets close. Once I am within range, I do my normal leveling pattern of Front Left, Back Right, Back Left, Front Right. Sometimes trying to get them all in line with each other just becomes a headache and it works better bringing all 4 corners up the same amount and then fine tuning the last couple millimeters.

I had the same problem until I switched to a PEI surface. PETG sticks almost too well to it. I found that scuffing the PEI with 200-grit sandpaper makes it a lot easier to use for both PETG and PLA. The bonus is that I no longer have to mess around with applying tape. I rarely even clean it.

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Going to second this... I use glass + PEI on every one of my printers and it is damned near perfect. Some of them have been in place for well over a year now and I don't recall having a single adhesion issue ever (unless I skipped leveling the bed or something else stupid). Takes absolutely no maintenance other than occasionally wiping them down with some rubbing alcohol to get the grease off.

Original Poster3 points · 4 days ago

Just finished patting and weathering the wings. Now to create a stencil for the A get that done. Do a final weathering of the whole helmet. After that I'm going to add some foam to make the strap and ear protection.

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Looks phenomenal, very nice job!

Original Poster1 point · 4 days ago

My girlfriend has been addicted to Perler bead artwork over the last several weeks and started requesting various 3D prints to display them. I wasn't sold on the idea at first but came out looking very neat, especially the painted warp tubes.

Any chance you're willing to share the files or link to a tutorial on the subject? I literally just got my ultimaker today! :)

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Original Poster1 point · 4 days ago

There isn't much to write about from my end, I just did the printing as she requested. As for the files, the little pot design was from here. The warp tube I made in Tinkercad while looking at an existing design for inspiration (just to get some experience with it), but here are a couple on Thingiverse link 1 - link 2.

I don't have an artistic bone in my body so she came up with the bead designs and painted the tubes. If you are interested in doing Perler bead art though, I am sure she could chime in! It's mostly just arranging an assortment of bead colors on a peg board, then ironing them with a sheet of wax paper on top to bond them together.

Congrats on the Ultimaker! Those are awesome machines!

I'm copying and pasting this from another thread because it's a super inexpensive but really effective way to solve the Ender 3 bed issues:

Are you in the US?

Go to Home Depot/Lowe's and get some glass cut for it. Ask for 9.25 inches by 9.25 inches and get a few pieces cut. Shouldn't be more than $5 or $6. I did that and now use a thin layer of Elmer's Glue Stick on my bed, zero leveling or adhesion issues.

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It may vary by location but worth noting that none of the Home Depot stores will cut glass in my location, seems to be wood only. I got a threaded rod cut at Lowe's so they seem more open to different materials, but the guy just went and grabbed a hacksaw and cut it next to the register.

I normally use Borosilicate glass, but when funds were tight, I had better luck at a small glass shop. They charged me $8 for a 300x300x4mm piece w/ chamfered corners which was definitely a fair price.

$65 for a 3x3" mold making box? I have to reiterate the response you had when posting this to /r/ResinCasting and point out this just isn't very practical for the price. Sure, it may take a few minutes to glue some corrugated cardboard walls together, but only costs a couple dollars.

With that said, everything in your kit looks like it would be extremely simple to just 3D print... I am all for the entrepreneurial spirit but taking in to account the price and delivery time, most of us could put something together in Tinkercad that would do the same thing.

Original Poster1 point · 5 days ago

Yes I have to agree regarding the statement portion. I'm just a noob when it comes to 3d printing and am completely clueless when it comes to troubleshooting prints. Regarding the questions that all of you have been brought up:

  1. I am still using the stock frame, reinforced on the z-axis with printed brackets.
  2. I thought that 80mm/s and higher was the standard print speed for anets and other prusa printers as I never saw anyone state otherwise.
  3. The so called benefits I am referring to are the decreased weight of the x-axis carriage which is why I went to Bowden in the first place.
  4. My retraction is set at 6.5mm/s with a speed of 25mm/s. These are the stock settings that I have not changed due to my unfamiliarity with them.
  5. I blamed the Bowden system as I was not sure what else could be at fault. It is a dumb accusation but I know little regarding these printers as my research regarding their calibration has been anything but successful. Other than simple answers such as bed leveling and flow rate.

Sorry for seeming like a complete dumbass with this post but I kind of am.

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80 mm/s is pretty high regardless. Your acceleration and jerk settings won't actually let the machine reach that but even so, your speeds are set about 2x what I would recommend for a machine with a janky acrylic frame.

I would start with 40 mm/s while you fine tune your slicer profile settings. Once you have everything dialed in, you can start bumping speeds to find the sweet spot, but definitely don't start out that fast. That is like building a car and taking it up to 150 MPH on the first run to see how it handles.

I run most of my machines at 60 mm/s as that tends to be fast enough with good print results, but you can of course push that higher in many cases. That stock A8 frame is going to hold you back though, where I would eventually consider swapping out to the AM8 if you really want to push the speeds.

Original Poster1 point · 5 days ago

That am8 frame is definitely on my bucket list for printer upgrades. I'll turn down the speed to your recommendation and give the retraction distance an addtional 1-2mm to see how it does. Are there any other slicer settings that I should prioritize other than the common ones? (Speed, flow, fan speeds, etc. ). I'm also using Cura if that helps any.

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3 points · 5 days ago · edited 5 days ago

Retraction distance of 6.5mm is well within the range for bowden, I would leave that alone for now and just start with a speed decrease. By printing at 30-40 mm/s, you will be able to see what, if any other problems are present and fix those.

You may however need to bump retraction speed a bit, I use 60 mm on my bowden machines but start with 40 mm/s and go from there. You don't want to go too high on retraction values as that can cause a clog, but start with values in the mid range and then tweak as needed.

Edit Changed 'noefrn' to 'bowden' lol

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Not everything should be printed and given the price of buying them online, I would strongly suggest just purchasing the dampers. You only need 2 for the Ender-3 (X and Y, don't put it on E) and that is no more than 10 bucks in total.

I feel like Tony Stark would know better.

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Infinity Wars 2 - The Burning of Stark Tower

Find 2 of something that is the same height, glue sticks for example will work. Set them here and use both hands to rotate the Z motor couplers and lower the X axis until it touches the top of both. My best guess would be that your X axis is not aligned and this will make it near impossible to level the bed. When I first got my Maker Select, I had zero idea why it was so hard to level the bed. Took me a few days the first time to realize my X axis was completely misaligned.

Original Poster12 points · 7 days ago · edited 7 days ago

Seems they replaced the acrylic frame with ABS plastic, redesigned the hotend, gave it a 24V electrical system, PSU cover/rocker switch and a few other changes.

Visually it actually looks quite a bit better in my opinion, but other than the 24V electrical system, it looks like there are likely still some of the same safety problems. The heated bed electrical connector looks to be the same flawed design, the heater block seems to still be using the same set screw and so on. It will be interesting to see the specs and more individual component details but Anet isn't exactly known for releasing quality products so temper expectations.

I think the things we needed to know were changed weren't. The heated bed connector and adding thermal runway. I had the printer for a long while before using it for parts but I ran into both problems with it.

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Original Poster3 points · 7 days ago

Exactly. They have done a great job of modernizing the look and updating the easy selling points, but failed to address even the most basic of known safety issues (other than exposed PSU terminals and probably no longer needing a MOSFET). It honestly won't surprise me if this ships with the exact same outdated firmware on the board.

Why not just use binder clips? I am always up for a printable solution, but metal clips are the most common choice to hold glass in place for a reason. Granted, you lose a bit of printable space at the edges but printed supports are most likely going to warp.

Original Poster1 point · 8 days ago

I’m actually going that way - I’m out at the moment and will look for some bigger clips (the ones with the Ender are tiny). But I think I’m also always looking to print solutions to my problems!

Related question: does the glass just sit on the Buildtek plate or do I remove that first and put the glass on the naked bed itself?

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You can just place the glass directly over the BuildTak. It used to be fairly common to scrape it off before putting the glass in place, but it isn't really necessary and most people just clip the glass directly over it now.

When I was painting one of my masks, I kept getting those spiderwebs all over it. Not sure if I was spraying the coat too thick or if it was the underneath layer, but they were all over it. As far as I know, the only way to fix it is to sand it down far enough to remove the defects.

This question pops up from time to time and having done a fair amount of 3D Printing jobs, I ended up writing an article on it a couple months back. You can check it out here if interested, where I covered 3 different methods of doing so.

To summarize however, you need to think outside of the box. I've done printing jobs for various websites that sell board game terrain and can't keep up with the demand (usually a continual stream of work which is nice) to holiday type stuff around mother's/father's day, Christmas, etc.

I will say, trying to compete in large markets is almost never worth it. Etsy is a great opportunity if you have some unique (not being sold there already) but for things like planters, trinkets, etc. it is already saturated. People are selling printed designs from Thingiverse at a loss, just trying to get some sales. Instead, look at local markets because there is infinitely more possibility there. Even for someone like me with no design skills, I was able to create some simplistic keychains, guitar picks and other items for local bands that they could use as merchandise or give out for free.

There is plenty of opportunity though and if you recognize where it is, you can capitalize on it. My girlfriend is doing bead art right now and selling her designs at a local art market. I have started designing/printing really basic stuff to help her pieces, such as small flower pots, warp tubes and all sorts of things that anyone could whip up in Tinkercad with 30 minutes of practice.

Original Poster1 point · 9 days ago

Got a boot loader installed on my Ender 3. When I try to compile/download the Marlin 1.1.9 Ender-3 ABL Enabled referenced above, I get the compile error “ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h. U8glib.h: No such file or directory”. Is the U8glib.h file really required?

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I planned to do 3 guides, one for bootloader, one for flashing marlin and one for auto bed leveling, but skipped the Marlin one while deciding what exactly to cover there (videos usually tend to software based tutorials better).

With that said, you do need the u8glib library installed. Go to Arduino IDE -> Sketch -> Include Libraries and look for "u8glib" at the bottom of the list. If it isn't there, you can use "Library Manager" and search for it by name, or just install it manually using the files on Github.

Original Poster2 points · 8 days ago

I’m not yet done with my ABL project, but thanks a bunch for the FW you provided to begin with and thanks for the help with the missing file. Too bad I didn’t think to print a sensor bracket before I tore the printer apart, or I’d be done.

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No problem! Honestly I did the same exact thing. My plan was to mount the ABL sensor to the stock x-carriage cover but it sat too high off the build plate. I'm in a room of 3D printers but only the Ender-3 and the Maker Select are functional, so I was lucky I was able to do the sensor mount on the MS without having to reassemble the Ender-3.

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I joined my first ever Fantasy Football league on this sub years ago, knew relatively nothing about fantasy or football but had a blast playing it... I think I even won if I remember correctly. I ran 2 leagues myself the next year (one for this sub, one for family and friends) and even got to meet up with some of the other locals at the end, was an absolute blast. After we had some bad experiences in other people's mismanaged leagues this past year, a couple people asked if I would run it again. For anyone interested, here are the details...

  • Name: 904 Blitz
  • Site: ESPN
  • Buy-in: $25
  • Scoring: 0.5 PPR
  • Draft: 8/28/2018 @ 9PM EST
  • Payments/Payouts: LeagueSafe
  • Spots Open: 7


  • 1st Place Prize: $150 + Trophy
  • 2nd Place Prize: $75 + Trophy
  • 3rd Place Prize: $25 (Buy-in back) + Trophy

If you are interested in joining, just let me know or shoot me a PM. We already have 1 person that has never played before and will be helping him along the way, so if you are inexperienced but want to try it out, we will be happy to help along the way. It also makes it a lot more fun to watch all the NFL games each week!


I could be down

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Original Poster1 point · 9 days ago

Just shoot me a PM if you have any questions or want the info to join. You can just provide me with your e-mail and I can send an invite, we are at 6/10 people right now.

Is the draft in person? Or just online?

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Original Poster1 point · 11 days ago

The draft will be held online via the ESPN site, although if anyone was interested, we could definitely meet up somewhere local and do it. It would still be conducted over mobile devices (i.e. phone/laptop) but we could have some food/drinks while we do it.

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You can't really go wrong ordering from Creality directly, and they have it on their Ebay store for $219.99 and I believe they sell it on Aliexpress and Amazon as well. I bought mine from a reseller (Comgrow) on Amazon when it first launched but it's a bit more expensive there, I would rather just pay the extra for the added safety net they have for online purchases.

As far as the latest revisions, Creality would again be your best bet, resellers may have older inventory in stock that hasn't sold yet. You could contact them ahead of time to ask though.

I pretty much just covered both of these exact topics in the last 2 weeks, and posted my article on how to setup Auto Bed Leveling on the Ender-3 on this sub as well.

For flashing the bootloader, here is my guide on how to burn a bootloader on Melzi Boards (like the Ender-3). Here is my guide for setting up auto bed leveling on the Ender-3 with regular old $2-3 sensors.

I'm still polishing up the 2nd one a bit based on questions and feedback, but it should be enough to make the process MUCH easier than all of the various videos out there. I spent well over a week on the install and guide, making it as simple to repeat for others as possible.

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September 20, 2014
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Three-Year Club

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