That is probably glue or some other substance that prevented the oil from penetrating. Try lightly sanding the area and reapplying the blo.
How did you calculate the radius for the rockers?
The rockers have a 44" radius on the bottom side. This is calculated based on this website which was a HUGE help. One thing that surprised me through the whole process is how high up the front of the seat pan ends up relative to the back of the seat pan. Calculating center of gravity spatially in the side profile of the chair was a huge bother and even in the end an estimation - I'd take off about a half inch from the front legs if I were to make this chair again.
I used the same website when I designed a rocker.
How do you like the angle of the armrests relative to the seat. I'm just finishing another version with cantilevered arms and I have them more or less parallel to the seat.
How did you determine the radius for the rockers?
I can recognize you from the thumbnail, alway look forward to seeing your work.
This is amazing, one of he most impressive paintings I've seen on reddit. Props to pops OP.
Thanks man, this is the sort of comment that makes it worth the time and effort!
I plan to put some of my other work up here over the weekend. I did this one to a pretty tight deadline so I haven't got many progress shots at all.
If you can't wait there's quite a few more images on my Instagram including the prototype for the lift mechanism and formers for the curves etc.
Beautiful work man, will have to give this a try.
Armrests look scarily thin. Very nice design.
Yeah the armrests are the weak point in the design. I have mocked up a different armrest that is about 1/4" thicker in the middle and also has a halflap on the inside in addition to the through tenon and that seemed much sturdier and removed most of the flex. I am working on another version now where I split the armrest down the middle after rough shaping and routed corresponding grooves on either side to accept a piece of steel bar which when assembled I can't flex at all so I will probably end up with something that is perhaps a bit thicker and much less likely to fail.
Yeah I'd like to see some more build photos too. Where did you get the cord and tacks or nails you used to do the seat?
I am working on a bench version so I will try to document the build more thoroughly.
I used a looped warp method for the warp strands and also a double side rail, so I didn't need any traditional L-nails or tacks, but when I do more traditional cord weaving I get them from HH Perkins in North Haven, CT HH Perkins.
I've done this a few times and never had a problem. Take the lightest passes you can, I have never rotated the handle more than 1/8 turn between passes.
Don't stand behind it.
If you can get away with just sanding it, that would be the way to go.
He is right. All jointers (even properly set) will cut at a slight taper. The taper gets worse with more passes. If jointers didn't cut tapers, then we wouldn't need planers.
Are you sure about this? I have never noticed this effect, granted I have never looked for it. I don't see how it would happen.
Say for example the blade height at the highest point during it's rotation is 1/64 above the infeed table, and the outfeed table is set to the same height as the blade in that position, and the tables are coplanar and you have proper technique. Which part of the board is removing more or less than that 1/64 of an inch if the board is already squared?
Does anyone have a method for finishing ash that keeps the wood as white as possible? Blond/platinum shellac?
Also, and good tips for darkening kiln dried walnut sapwood?
All things possible with a laser. Or water jet...
probably a dovetail cutter on a mill
It's still a lot of work
One thing I picked up on is a Japanese technique for top shelves with space under them that are at or close to eye level. There can be a perceived parallax , so they actually concave the underside ever so slightly to remove any perception of a bow. It does make the top appear "flatter"
Since seeing that I am overly focused (probably a bad thing) on perception compared to reality. In reality the top is dead flat (and your shelves are the same length). But perception may disagree.
Also for some reason I wasn't subscribed to your channel. Fixed that. Do you do Instagram?
the stlyobate floor of the parthenon is curved to produce the same effect, it is an arc with a 3.5 mile radius.
Nailed it. The weave looks flawless, now how are your hands?
Check out Nick's video on his 89 gauge upgrade in case your looking to do the same by pulling another from the jy.
Interesting. Is it legal to just change an odometer like that?
Not sure about the States but presume it's similar to Canada where its 'Odometer Fraud' if you purposely roll it back and sell it claiming to have the low mileage (Motor Vehicle Dealers Act and the Consumer Protection Act). It's usually enforced at a dealership level who are supposed to ensure their selling correct mileage. What I'm not sure about is the grey area where you throw in a rebuild or even brand new engine if your allowed to roll back or not to track mileage for it. In the long run though if you personally change the odometer and let the next buyer know I think you would be alright, otherwise you are breaking the law.
That makes sense, I wonder if there is a way to replace the cluster and have the odometer rolled back to the current milage.
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I used to work in an olive oil shop. There are so many brands of shit that the supermarkets try to sell you and pass off as "Extra virgin olive oil" when in reality they are not even virgin, they are at this point rancid and stale.
Some things you can look for when buying
check the harvest date on the bottle. This is the single most important thing you can do, if the bottle doesn't have a date, they probably don't want you to know it, don't buy it. More recent = more flavor, healthier, better. A properly stored EVOO will be best in it's first year from harvest.
you don't want to see the oil. light and heat degrade the polyphenols in olive oil, the bottles themselves should be dark in color. The plastic see-through bottles are degraded before you'll ever open them.
the place of harvest is not as important as they want you to think quality olives don't just come from Greece. They come from Australia, California, Tunisia, Spain, South America, South Africa, from everywhere. The less they try to shove the fact that it's "from greece" down your throat the higher chance it's got other better qualities to show off.
The regulations on olive oil are all fucked up, and they are allowed to label their products really however they want to. In effect of this, many "food groups" have standards that they give out to olive oils, look for these seals of approval, there's quite a few different ones.
Currently live in Greece. The olive oil produced in Crete and Kalamata is far superior to any other olive oil I have tasted. That said, the olive oil from Crete and Kalamata rarely leaves Greece is significant quantities, so the olive oil you buy outside of Greece that says "from Greece" is the Greek olive oil the Greeks won't use.
I figured that was the case, I didn't mean to imply that Greece didn't make amazing oil also, which reading back it sounds that way hah. I hope one day I'll get to try the good stuff!
You'll love it. I live on a small island near Turkey and know a French woman with an orchard of about 50 trees, all with these really small olives. She only produces maybe 20 liters a season, but tasting it a few days after it is pressed, well it is hard to compare that anything you buy in a bottle.
they look like monk strap boots
You might want to look into a small bandsaw, less noise and dust, and a fairly minimal footprint. They are well suited for straight cuts, just need a plane to clean the edge up.
This might be caused by moisture that was trapped in the wood when the finish was applied, or the finish itself might have gone bad, which I think can happen if it old or is stored at high or low temperatures.
I would wait it out for a while and see if it runs its course. Worst case, you might have to sand it down and then reapply a finish to the wood.
Looks like a nice keyboard, what language/alphabet?
the high & low temperatures could have well been an issue (also during transport).
In case I'd have to sand it down, would you recommend some kind of varnish or just oil?
The alphabet is Japanese. (I'm still in the process of learning, though I thought some Japanese legends might help me / force me to learn faster ;P )
thanks for the inputs :)
I would probably go with a varnish for the extra durability, that said you will probably have to refinish it every once in a while anyway to touch up with the typical keyboard wear patterns.
A bandsaw is ideal for what you are looking to do, just make sure you have a way to clean up the saw marks after the cut.
No, you don't need them, but depending upon your goals they will likely be a worthwhile investment.
Those old Stanley planes were professional planes, they were designed to hold up and meet the requirements of daily use over a lifetime of work. It is my experience that almost any plane, from the pre-war Stanley, to custom high end planes, to cheap modern models, to harbor freight specials are capable of nearly comparable performance at any given instance of planing. An experienced woodworker can go to home depot and buy a plane and spend time fine tuning it and take a shaving that would rival his best plane, but they can't make it hold up the same way a better built, higher quality plane will, that has to do with the quality of the tool more so than the skill of the craftsman. It is about understanding a tools limitations with respect to its intended purpose.
Maybe this is a flawed example but it might be helpful. A modern lunchbox planer will give me more or less the same finished result on any one given board as an industrial planer. But a lunchbox planer isn't designed or marketed for running 500 board feet day after day for decades. There is a reason, width capacity aside, that industrial shops don't have fleets of lunchbox planers, they are less work over time with respect to their cost. If space and money were no consideration, hobbyists would buy industrial planers for the same reason. Space and cost are much closer for hand planes, especially with the used market. When you buy one of those old planes you are really purchasing the industrial version of a plane. Given that you can find them for not much more, and sometimes for less, than newer planes, it makes sense to do so. You are buying a better tool. Nobody wants to do more work for the same result.
Occasionally there are videos of someone tuning up a cheap plane and showing off the shavings, but they never show you the shaving after a day or week of even moderate use. So if you only occasionally use the tool and you aren't looking for the highest quality results, or maybe you are not comfortable refurbishing an old plane, they might be worth considering as long as you are aware of the plane's limitations. Even then I would advise against it though, because those old planes hold their value. You can but a $50 pre-war plane and as long as you don't drop it and crack it or otherwise destroy it, you can probably resell it at a later point for more or less the same price. I mean, even if you drop it, you can always sell the parts individually and make back some of your investment. That is why I sometimes look at old quality tools as more or less free, only with deposits and modest opportunity costs. This is why I would recommend buying quality used tools to beginners. They are almost always better quality for comparable prices and you don't suffer that initial depreciation the moment you open the box. If you buy an old Unisaw today and then in two years decide woodworking sucks, you can get your money back, you might even be able to make money. I bought an old Craftsman table saw on craigslist for $110, one of the faux cabinet saws with the table mounted trunnions. I'm pretty sure if the top cracked today I could still sell the wings and the motor for more than I paid for it.
Also, for the most part, I would think the examples of furniture that survive intact and complete from those eras were likely made by the some of the best craftsmen and artisans of that time, who had access to the best tools of the time. Find me an example of surviving Renaissance era furniture of quality made with primitive tools and I will be impressed.
If you are okay with the hand tool process and order of operations, consider a bandsaw. I am primarily a handtool users, but I do rip and resaw mostly on a bandsaw. The cut is nearly identical to a handsaw in quality and (lack of) accuracy. It's just far less effort - especially in thicker hardwoods where you'd devote an entire day just to ripping.
As I mentioned before the largest risk - kickback - is eliminated with a bandsaw. It's still a very dangerous tool, but I find it much more forgiving and tolerant than a tablesaw (when given the same level of respect).
I have been using my bandsaw for ripping more frequently. I'm in the process of planning a new workshop setup and have seriously considered forgoing a table saw altogether.
If your table saw disappeared tomorrow what do you think would be the biggest inconveniences?
Miters. I use my miter sled often. However it would just force me to finally build a good miter jack/donkey's ear (which I should really do anyway).
Other than that, I don't use my tablesaw.
Yeah, I'm thinking if I made a few well built jigs I could more or less do without the table saw entirely and go big on a bandsaw.
Almost all benchtop jointer are crap unless you are making very small projects. Much better to get a low angle jack plane in that price range.
I hear this repeated a lot. I have only used one on a few occasions, and have never owned one, but my experience was that if it is used within its limitations it worked just as well as any other jointer. It felt a bit under powered so I just took light cuts.
In what ways were almost all of them crap?