Can wood be cured of termites, and still used for a project? I've got this piece here, and it's quite long, but I've found a couple grooves cut into it like this > https://i.redd.it/3q7fyua33pg11.jpg
And I figure this must be termites. Still, I sprayed it off good, cut it to size and stuck it in the garage in hopes that I might be able to still use rather than just throw it away.
You are a brave man. I burn any wood that might have termites in it before it can get anywhere near my shop or home furnishings.
Have given that a thought already.
From a technical point of view it should not be impossible to make a miniature chainsaw. It would be great for the first rough work.
From a practical view, there's no need to make a tool that small when there are many tools that exist that will do the job. A chainsaw is a rough harvesting tool. No one needs a miniature version, as they are not harvesting tiny trees.
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It's called a vice. There are a ton of different designs.
I just picked up two boards earlier this week. $9.48 a bf for 5/4 (15 inches wide!) and 10.60 for 6/4.
Long enough to make another cutting board. I would toss any end grain board that went through the dishwasher.
it goes brown
Actually, I would love tips on how to clamp it down because that would be useful. If you look at my photo, you’ll see the saw covers the track, so there’s not really any place to clamp it if I’m planning on cutting all the way through. But I’m all for suggestions!
Step 1) hold track in place
Step 2) hold scrap piece snug against left edge of track
Step 3) clamp scrap piece to the board.
👍🏾 the internet works! Looks like youve got it.
I always try to have the clampy business facing down when I do stuff like this (less things to get tangled with during a cut, especially if you are using a corded tool). Good luck with the rest of the build!
Drum sander/planer/jack plane. Don't have space for the size jointer I would need.
Milling your own wood becomes a cost savings at a certain volume. It's just cheaper to buy less milled wood at a certain point.
Think about it like making chicken for dinner. If you make chicken once a month, you might buy chicken breast already cut off the bird for $3 a pound. But if you cook chicken four nights a week, it is worth it to spend $10 on a cutting board, $30 on butchering knives, and $10 on freezer bags so you can buy whole chickens for .50 a pound and butcher them yourself.
Whether the equipment cost is worth it depends on the volume you are going to do.
Yes. Wood bring dry does not change the effects of seasonal wood movement.
1) make stuff. Then make more stuff. Then make more stuff. Doesn't matter what. make stuff till you run out of space. Then sell/give away some stuff and make some more stuff. No one ever got better at making things by not making things.
2) I did a week long class (nakishima chair) after I knew the basics and wanted to do a project to push my skills and learn new techniques.
3) make stuff. Then make more stuff. Then make more stuff. My first project was a plywood shoe bench that was Brad nailed together. Then a pocket holed coffee table. Then an Ana White couch. Then 5 chaotic cutting boards. Then 25 boxes. Then more. Always more.
Youtube/forums/the internet make technique and tool issues really easy to reaearch. Pick a project and go. And don't take a ton of time trying to get your first project perfect. Making something and immediately making it again will always yield a better result.
How are the ends attached?
Do you mean as a flat surface for scary sharp or are you talking about rubbing your blades that need to be sharpened on a random piece of stone?
Depends on your tolerance for cheap results? How cheap a look does your wife want?
I guess my main concern would be the sharpied autographs being smeared or damaged.
The warning with finishing everything is test it out, so get a poster of similar paper, scribble some stuff with a sharpie and make a test piece for whatever method you decide to try.
Are you trying to flatten or smooth? Those are two different tasks.
I sand epoxy to 1000, then arm r seal, then polish with 2k polishing pads. Wipe it down with mineral spirits if you want a preview of what it will look like with finish on it.
With lines that fine, you may way to paint. Stain will bleed between lines and not look clean.
I'm also looking at either a thicknesser or planer/ thicknesser (UK too) and was set until I read this: http://www.recordpower.co.uk/magazine/page/buyers-guides/cat/planing--thicknessing/article/planer-thicknesser-buyers-guide/id/177
Suggests a thicknesser cannot be used to dimension timber, which to me limits its use.
Maybe I'm over thinking it.
It can face joint with a joining jig, but yes, you cannot dimension lumber with just a thicknesses and no other jigs/tools.
What type of stain?
I may have an opportunity to buy a Ridgid R4513 for only $100 (used obviously). I had planned on waiting til I moved to buy a hybrid or cabinet style saw but in the meantime I don't have a table saw. Is it possible to do woodworking on this thing? Like always I've seen both sides of the coin online - some people say it's only good for carpentry and others say with careful setup it can be used. Safety is also a concern for me, the lack of stability would make me a little nervous but I could tie some sandbags to the base or something.
Depends what you want to make. It's fine for smaller projects, but the portable saws struggle with precision on bigger/longer/thicker pieces of wood.
I got into hand-tool woodworking watching Paul Sellers over YouTube, and have slowly started incorporating power tools into my arsenal due to lack of time after work. To speed things up, I'm looking at getting a table saw, and the Rigid R4512 comes recommended by two cabinet makers I know over Facebook. I'm wondering if it has any downsides that anyone knows about? Anything to watch out for?
Ability to accept a commercially available zero clearance insert and being heavy as hell are both pros for a table saw.
Can anyone help me identify this wood? https://i.imgur.com/5UPjctV.jpg
Another picture here (the one on the right): https://i.imgur.com/lgl88oB.jpg
Dollars worth of scrap wood for an easy win project. Two things a lot of people are looking for in a project when they start woodworking.
Resin pour and small budget are generally not things that go in the same project. I ran the calculations for a 5' x 10" x 2" pour and it is 664 ounces. My resin cost is about .85 an ounce (but I'm buying resin 30L at a time to keep the price down). Plus another $100 or so for the mold and lining.
Grab a piece of scrap and cut straight lines with the handsaw until you can actually cut straight lines. It might take you 10. It might take you 100.
The bandsaw is the easiest way. Table saw jig is not too hard, but takes a big kerf. If you want to do it with the tools you have, this is a great opportunity to improve your skills.
A friend is new to woodworking and she is looking into making baby toys . Anyone know a blog or subreddit that really digs jnto stuff like:
What's the best wood to use?
What's a safe sealant or finish for a toy that'll be in a baby's mouth?
Typical dos and don't ?
Thanks already in advance!
Closed grained hardwood. The domestics (walnut maple cherry) are perfect.
I'm going to be making a "couch coaster" this weekend - basically a flat surface that goes on the arm of our sofa to put drinks, remotes, etc. I'd like to have a waterfall type effect so that I can match the grain perfectly. What's the best way to join two thin (1/2 inch) boards with a 45 degree mitre joint? So far keys/splines seem to be the best option, but I'm a little concerned that may be out of my skill level.
No one was born knowing how to do splined meters. Whatever method you use, you are going to have to learn something new.
Dovetails would also work.
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