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T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
poldim 6 points

It seems like Festool is the best top of the line product.

What’s the harbor freight, ‘I use it once a year’ equivalent?

T13397 1 point

Menards offers a master force brand one at a deep discount over name brands

T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
badbern67 3 points

Enjoy the new toy... This is the framer, but I'm wondering if anybody cares to share their experience with the DeWalt cordless finisher. (Probably my next tool purchase).

T13397 1 point

My 18ga has some issues with setting nails completely. Probably one in 8 or so are proud, that being said, I still love it for the same reasons the other guy listed.

T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
SteamBoilerGuy 1 point

Anyone have an opinion on the Dewalt Tough System?

T13397 3 points

That’s my system, so far I like it. My only complaint is that the bottom box with wheels doesn’t fit under my bed cover without modifications. Other than that, they seem pretty solid. Not as nice as the Milwaukee stuff but not bad for a little cheaper

T13397 commented on a post in r/DIY
5
T13397 2 points

This isn’t popular opinion here, but I’ll offer my opinion. If the floor wasn’t gapped I’d be all for refinishing it. Filler will never look perfect, and if the floor is squeaky or anything, chances are the filler will crack out of the gaps. If you value you the old floor that much, refinish it, but know it’ll never be perfect. It’s a lot of work for a blemished end product.

T13397 commented on a post in r/DIY
_NicoRe_ 1 point

Thanks! Our walls have like a creamy colour. Will it be obvious that there was a hole when i fix it with this stuff and paint over it?

T13397 1 point

Do your walls have a texture to them?

ItsSomethingLikeThat 3 points

60 grit for plaster?? Holy crap, I use that for serious material removal on timber. At least 180 for plaster, ideally 240.

T13397 1 point

That’s typically around the grit that production drywall tapers use. Maybe 80 grit.

T13397 commented on a post in r/Carpentry
5
wastedhotdogs 2 points

I bought one of those red aluminum Milwaukee boxes as a backup while I had a replacement Tajima on the way from amazon. I was pissed to find that the milwaukee hook didn't have the usual taper for centering on a nail. The gears felt stripped right out of the box too, probably just a dud though.

T13397 1 point

They actually updated their new ones to have that taper on the hook now

T13397 commented on a post in r/HomeImprovement
ganjias2 1 point

Is there any drywall or paneling? Walls and cieling. 16inch on center (measure from the middle of one joist to the middle of the next) is normal, the standard insulation role is something like 14.5 inches so it fits exactly between the joists.

For a garage that you aren't trying to keep at 70 all winter it might not be cost effective to go with the more expensive insulation options, but loose fill and rolls of fiberglass or cellulose could be a good idea.

Check your local codes about exposing insulation to living space. You will probably want to put drywall (or other wall board) between the living space and the insulation in the walls and cieling. This will increase the overall cost of the project. (Without, it becomes a fire hazard, particularly if you are using paper backed insulation and a gas heater.)

T13397 1 point

Since op said it’s a pole barn chances are, the poles and joist are on 8’ spacing. There are rolls of insulation available at the width required since insulating pole barns is pretty common

Bromigo32 2 points

What's his skill set? Reno/restoration goes all year. I haven't been laid off more than a couple days in the past 6 years

T13397 2 points

Pretty much no “construction” skills outside of helping to lay sewage wastewater and water pipe. I plan of giving him my old set of hand tools, but I imagine whatever job he gets is gonna be pushing a broom, moving material, etc.

Bromigo32 1 point

Not sure what state y'all live in but he should look up some restoration companies. It'll be a little more than pushing a broom though. It's kind of the shittier side of construction but can pay really well and you learn all of the trades over time.

T13397 4 points

I think he’d be fine with the work. He works hard and I think he wants to learn so that shouldn’t be an issue. My only concern was people wouldn’t be interested in teaching a guy that’ll only be around a couple months.

I’ll have him give it a look

T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
T13397 1 point

Buying: the corded festool track saw has really been drawing my eye lately, hopefully a bench top planer (open to suggestions),

Replacing: 1 gallon trim compressor I gave away a couple years ago cause I’m dumb and thought I’d lug my huge one with me everywhere, and my Dewalt jobsite tablesaw. My current one has been in for service twice and is still giving me issues

Upgrading: my cordless tool storage. 10 batteries and 10 cordless tools strung out across several bags is finally getting to me.

WoodcraftKevin 2 points

I personally wouldn't buy a benchtop planer that wasn't the Dewalt 734 or 735.

T13397 1 point

I think it’s gonna be the 734 for me. I’ve had my eye on it for a while now.

T13397 commented on a post in r/DIY
T13397 1 point

I own a Bosch glm 30. I use it mostly for estimating. It lets me measure long or tall stretches easily and quickly, however that being said, I’ve found it’s certainly accurate enough for trim work. It’s handy for measuring between inside corners, long stretches of crown, and awkward spots. The glm claims accuracy to 1/16 and I always cut a little fat of that just to ensure I don’t short my measurement.

T13397 commented on a post in r/HomeImprovement
T13397 3 points

As much as I’d like to inspire DIY attitude, this is a big one for a newbie to start. Tearing down the wall is easy, determining if the wall is structural is (generally) not too difficult given some teaching. But moving plumbing to add a new tub can get pretty complex depending on the situation you have.

More information would help determine just how difficult it’ll be, but my suggestion would be to maybe save for this one, and work your way up to it, learning on other smaller projects in your home.

canis_latte 1 point

Thats what we're definitely going..this won't be done for several years even, but I just want to start..understanding it, I suppose? Thanks!

T13397 1 point

Well given the proper “know how” and some practice, it’s not a unreasonable project for a home owner. I would learn as much as you can about plumbing and electricity between now and when you want to start. Those two trades are the biggest road blocks for people. Also understanding the basic structure of a home can help with identifying load bearing points and determining what members are okay to cut or drill through and what is not.

T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
5
Akmantainman 3 points

Find a Red Wing store near you and talk to the sales guy, he'll use his machine to get some info on your foot and make a solid recommendation. I've got flat feet and never had a shoe fit right, I went with his recommendation and inserts and my feet have never hurt even after spending 15+ hours on them at a time. The King toes are my favorite style, well worth the price IMO.

T13397 1 point

Second on the king toes. I’m wearing my second pair right now, gonna pick up my third this weekend.

T13397 commented on a post in r/DIY
2
T13397 2 points

Is the deck free standing? Is the beam set under all the joist?

You don't need joist hangers if you're not attaching to a structure and hanging joists off a ledger or if you don't have a flush beam. If you have a ledger or a flush beam, they are required and should be added to the old structure and included in your new one.

Also use nails or structural screws for load bearing connections.

T13397 commented on a post in r/Tools
T13397 3 points

Score and snap is the cheapest method.

Next would be putting cement board blades into your regular saws. The blades are pricy and it can be rough on your saws.

Easiest/most expensive is buying a cement board saw. My boss had one rigid makes, I don't know if they still do, but it's pretty nice. Again, blades are expensive.

Mister_Critter 1 point

Good to know. I don't think ill be doing enough of it to justify a saw but the blades in a regular saw might be the ticket. What do you think about a stone cutting mason disc in a grinder? I dont have the grinder on site today but i could bring one tomorrow if I needed to.

T13397 1 point

I'm sure it'd work, I personally think it'd be hard to cut straight. I'd rather put the hardie blade in a worm drive and go to town.

T13397 commented on a post in r/HomeImprovement
PBBMGB 0 points

Why? Because it is not marketable and it costs builders money. Before building my first home myself I was amazed how amazingly stupid and cheap some builders tend to be. One guy told me there were no negotiations in price because he had to put lightbulbs in the hose......LOL. When I was building the house the price difference between single and double pane windows was $10 a window or in my house $300. The market homes were all single pane. At the time (1989) the average price I was looking for was $110,000. What is $300? If the code didn't require it builders won't do it....

T13397 3 points

To be honest, because (most) people don't care. You obviously know what you're looking at and understand it, but an overwhelming share of US home buyers look for cosmetic shit (open floor plan, clean modern look, whatever other terms turn people on when looking for houses). R value, siding choice, window types (or brands) are all stuff they don't care to understand.

So yeah, builders save that 300 bucks because they won't see any return on spending it. If a customer (like you) comes in and knows their shit, they were never gonna buy a house from them anyways.

Edit: I'm not saying it's right, just that I get it. As someone who works in a construction company, it's hard to get people to spend money on things they don't understand or care for, even if it is a higher value.

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About t13397

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    October 19, 2014

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