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Odd name for a funeral home by ugotwirfed in WTF

[–]abnormal_human 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I grew up half a mile from that place...strange to see this here. That building is at the corner of Sheridan Dr and Hopkins Rd in Amherst NY.

We always chuckled about it. It's a family name..for better or worse.

CMV: All nighters are not productive and not worth the effort. by leftofcenterleft in changemyview

[–]abnormal_human 14 points15 points  (0 children)

If I have good momentum I keep going. Fucking up tomorrow is fine since that doesn't happen every day, and the amount of stuff that gets done when in "the zone" is significant. Tomorrow is going to be full of multitasking/interruptions anyways, and my ability to deal with that is not significantly impacted by being tired.

I'm not sure what influencers you are speaking of. As someone who has started/grown a business before, I can say that a lot of stuff that would be horrible advice to a student or employee is not bad advice to an entrepreneur with a significant ownership stake. In that situation, your personal time/energy is one of the most available resources in what is usually a very resource-constrained environment. Failing to use it is doing yourself a disservice.

I've been a long time lurker and built this piece. It's my first serious build in which I invested $$$ into material. Thanks for calling me on r/woodworking. Here's my opportunity to contribute to the sub. You all rock. Link to the build in comments. by -coolcoolcool- in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Great first project. It takes a lot of effort to get to this step and you should be proud.

Allow me to help you by tearing it apart constructively.

First--grain layout

The first thing I noticed when looking at the front was the grain in the edge-banding. You picked a beautiful piece for the vertical board with nice straight grain, but the others are kind of blobby. Next time, try cutting the banding so that all of the front surfaces are rift/quartered.

Then I looked at the left side and noticed that there was a really distinctive feature in the walnut that had been placed slightly off-center, with a slip-matched repeat of that feature truncated on the left side. From the looks of it, you had room to center that properly and either make it look symmetrical, or at least remove the truncated copy that betrays the fact that it is plywood.

Second--the edge banding.

There are no prizes for using thick edge banding. In fact, it probably makes the top of the case look worse, because it's really obvious that it is edge banded at 3/8" thickness. 1/16" max next time, and try to hide the edge<->plywood joint in the corner as you treat the edge.

Take a look at the T junction in the top/middle of the case--the edge banding from the top is covering part of the middle upright. It feels strange and breaks the "solid wood" illusion.

I recommend putting the edge banding on the plywood very early in the process--before you even cut the case miters or dadoes. From that point on, you can treat it like solid boards. It not only makes the edge banding process easier, it makes the final appearance a lot more believable as solid wood.

Finally, put edge banding on both the front and rear..it looks/feels more professional that way, even if the piece is going to go against a wall.

Third--the feet

I have never made a set of mid-century feet look right without several design iterations. Usually I design it in CAD 3-4 times (with a few days between each one to process it fresh), and then build it at least twice before I'm satisfied. Mockups are worth their weight in gold if the material is too expensive to waste with prototyping. The feet can really make/break a piece.

(1) It's very rare in mid-century furniture to have a leg that is tapered on the inside but straight up/down on the outside.

(2) The inside taper on the leg is too sharp.

(3) The apron is too wide, and the grain selection there is less than ideal. That is another location where straight grain would look great.

(5) The way the grain pattern plays out in the legs makes it unbelievable that they are made of "real" wood. Grain goes up and down in feet like this. And they should be made of solid material, not ply, even if the case is plywood.

(6) The legs are inset too far from the edge of the case.

Fourth--the joinery

Miters on a case this large need to be reinforced. I wouldn't try to do anything about this now..just use it and pray it doesn't fail. But next time, definitely put something in there, even if it's just splines cut after the fact.

Roubaix vs. Diverge by SexyRosaParks in cycling

[–]abnormal_human 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OP wants to go faster, but he's contemplating replacing his bike with something that is really similar to what he is already riding.

The main difference between endurance road bikes and gravel bikes is the tires + tire clearance, and that you might put someone in a more upright position when fitting them for gravel riding. The geometry is similar enough that OP would probably end up in the same position on both bikes if he went with each to a fitter and said "set me up for fast group rides".

His goal is to go faster--for the vast majority of us, it's easier to lose some weight, increase training to a volume that allows for steady progress, grow FTP over time, and work on flexibility so we can be comfortable in a more aerodynamic body position.

If he's already at the limits of body weight, FTP, and the bike's geometry/fit parameters, maybe a slight change in equipment is the lowest-hanging fruit that he can access--but this is really pretty unlikely. Actually, if it were, he wouldn't be considering an endurance bike, he'd be shopping for something more aerodynamic.

My guess is, he could get 98% of the "upgrade" with new tires and a fit adjustment on his current bike, and can get plenty fast enough for the club rides he wants to go on by training/improving his body and making some minor setup adjustments to his current ride.

Actually, the 1 Percent Are Still The Problem by maxwellhill in politics

[–]abnormal_human 11 points12 points  (0 children)

They also:

Predominately live in areas with very high cost of living in all areas, so a lot of those apparently large income numbers are passing right through to higher taxes, housing costs, food costs, medical costs, transportation costs, etc.

Are concentrated in the populous states that are under-represented per capita in the federal government.

Do not have large enough numbers to control election outcomes like the bottom 90%, but also don't have enough wealth to put a thumb on the scale like the top 0.1%.

Mostly come from families that do not have significant familial wealth.

Work 50-80hrs a week, with a partner that does the same, depend on employer-provided health insurance, and have student loans and mortgages to worry about.

Roubaix vs. Diverge by SexyRosaParks in cycling

[–]abnormal_human 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you're already at your optimal weight, at 3W+/KG, riding 100+mi/wk, and have already had a professional bike fit and are at the geometry limits of this bike, put some 25-28mm slicks on the Diverge and move on. They're not that different.

I dropped it :( by skelterjohn in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Half tails are a little weird if you're not mitering them.

When headphones attack by ordith in headphones

[–]abnormal_human 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve done the exact same thing twice in about 10 years with my hd650s. It hurts way more than you would think. Enough that I remember where I was both times, even now years later.

Family fun, those driveway climbs were brutal on my niece. by pz4prty in bicycling

[–]abnormal_human 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd be pretty scared letting a kid down my driveway. It's not too long..maybe 75', but it's steep, and at the bottom, you're at the top of a hill at the end a dead-end street that descends about 400' at -10% avg grade. With switchbacks.

If I kick off at the top of my driveway, tuck, and coast, I'm pushing 35mph by the time I have to brake for the first switchback.

There's a little flat spot near the top where the neighborhood kids ride their bikes in circles.

My neighbor hurt himself trip-fall-running after his 5 year old when the kid accidentally pointed the bike down the hill once.

The kids look at me like an alien whenever they see me grinding up it in the zone where they're not allowed, or when they see me leave the house and speed down the hill at car speeds.

Mid project, lost my pencil for 217th time, finally snapped, drilled some holes in a piece of scrap. Voila, no more lost pencils. Threw in a pencils sharpener while at it. Took less than ten minutes, will forever have a pencil by iSphincter in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've been through this iteration. In the end the only thing that worked for me is: have one pencil, and treat it exactly like every other tool. The reason why you can handle only having one marking knife, or one 1/4" chisel, but not just 1 pencil is all mental.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done it with a combination plane a few times. Could also imagine doing it with chisels + a router plane and not having it be too bad.

Could you do it with just chisels? Sure..but it's gonna be slow and somewhat error prone.

Contest Announcement: Dovetail Challenge by Clock_Man in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ugh, I guess I'll have to participate in this one.

$2000 Mdf Spotted in Mall? by remludar in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crossbanding provides dimensional stability by limiting seasonal movement. Plywood isn't particularly suited for situations that require an un-warped unsupported panel, though. There are better choices for door cores--MDF, HDF, and particleboard are all better at staying flat.

Attempted conoid style table legs. what do you think? by WrongTotal in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those aren't conoid legs. They are 100% rectilinear. They are Nakishima inspired, but look like they need more work with the rasp before they are done.

[Serious] Older people of Reddit, how do you continue working 40+ hours a week for decades without going insane? by DrunkFrodo in AskReddit

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured out early that I wasn't going to be happy unless I was working for myself. So I worked my ass off and eventually got myself into a place where it was feasible to found something.

That was a while ago..I still work a ton, but I'm doing it for me. It's pretty great. I wouldn't work this hard for someone else.

Improve FTP? by MAC_Addy in Velo

[–]abnormal_human 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your FTP is probably underestimated. Your light weight is helping you out on the hills, esp if the guys are heavier than you.

I've gained/lost some weight while riding over the years. 20-30lbs makes a huge diff on the hills. Easier to lose the pounds than add the FTP.

When you ask the guy at Home Depot to cut a board so you can fit it in your car by ekballo in woodworking

[–]abnormal_human 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For good walnut pricing, shop on hudsonvalley.craigslist, drive an hour or two north, and buy in minor bulk--200-400bf is usually enough to make it worth the trip and everyone's while. Lots of Walnut in the Catskills.

I've gotten some of the best material that I've ever worked with up there for $5-7/bf, and haven't shopped for Walnut at the lumber yard in years. Many of those boards couldn't have been purchased at a commercial lumber yard at any price.

Chord DAVE by bunnydogwalking in headphones

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FFT will almost certainly be very noisy.

I get where this intuition comes from, but it's not correct. If you were actually doing this, the FFT's would be very long (longer than the filter), and would provide ample precision in the frequency domain, and you'd use 64bit FP.

The FFT libraries available today are very, very fast. Doing FFT convolution--1M taps at 705.6k fits inside of 1 core of a current intel CPU easily if you use a good library that fully leverages the CPU like fftw or ipp.

Getting this to run in reasonable time without the tricks you can use in custom hardware sounds like a nightmare though.

Well..Chord doesn't use custom hardware--they use FPGA. The main thing that FPGA gives you over a CPU is incredibly precise timing guarantees about when steps happen. Important for real-time one-sample-at-a-time processing of an S/PDIF stream, but irrelevant (and inefficient) to do it that way on a GP CPU.

Doing 1m taps * 705.6k, even with the polyphase optimizations would be tough in direct form on a single CPU core. On a multi-core CPU with a good parallelization strategy it would be fine, though. And on a GPU, even fine-r. I know of a commercial product--HQPlayer--that runs filters like this on CPUs/GPUs, and their "xtr" filters (which are more or less similar to/inspired by chord's) run under these circumstances.

Riding on wide shoulder at stop lights. by Bigdumidiot in cycling

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it were me, I'd try really to avoid any road with a speed limit of 60mph because you know people will be driving faster than that and something tells me that roadway isn't really intended for pedestrian traffic.

Guessing you don't ride out in the country much? In a lot of places, as soon as you get away from town/village centers, the speed limit is going to revert to 55-60. It's pretty common to ride on the shoulder or share the lane on these roads. So long as the traffic volume is sparse, it's usually totally fine, as roads designed for these speeds generally offer decent visibility of what's up ahead.

The best practices for handling yourself in these areas are different from the city..but I feel a lot safer dealing with 1 car every 5-10mins @ 70mph than 20 cars/min @ 25mph.

Chord DAVE by bunnydogwalking in headphones

[–]abnormal_human 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I agree that well implemented upsampling like that on the Blu2 can be audible. I also have regular access to all of these products, and experience designing sample rate conversion filters for audiophile applications, so I have a solid engineering perspective on how this all works under the hood, too.

The interconnect between Blu2 and DAVE is 705.6kHz. All the Blu2 is doing is upscaling--it just happens to use an interpolator with a really long tap-length that is marketed well. Chord/Rob Watts do not have a monopoly on really long FIR filters.

The DAVE can accept 705.6kHz over USB. If you fed it the same bits from the same extra-long FIR filter running in software, it would sound the same (+/- whatever analog-domain junk the DAVE fails to reject from the USB port).

We don't have the coefficients, of course--so if you really like those filter coefficients and nothing else will do, the only choice is to buy a Blu2. But it's important to keep a clear head about it--if there's magic in the Blu2, it's in the coefficients, not in some special access that the Blu2 has for bringing extra value out of DAVE (regardless of what the marketing says).

Long FIR filters aren't black magic. Most people don't do them because of compute costs and diminishing returns, not because they don't want to. Doing it in FPGA well requires some cleverness (and Rob has done a good job at that), but doing it in software is a lot more straightforward. You can spend as much time as you want tweaking with the filter design parameters in MATLAB and keep edging it closer to your design goals. Make it sound like whatever you want it to sound like. It's fun, for sure. Harder is finding something that pleases a lot of people..

/u/truestoryijustmadeup casually mentions that a $50k camera accessory isn't his most expensive gear, gets goaded into detailing his priciest gear...and one fateful day on set. by carrotflowerking2 in bestof

[–]abnormal_human 32 points33 points  (0 children)

The higher the dollar value, the more it makes sense for the insurance company to use their own resources/personnel to mitigate or invalidate the claim.

A $100k+ claim might easily justify more than a token amount of effort before it's paid out. Enough that the adjustor would let their supervisor know, since the team is going to be spending more than a couple minutes on it.

Should I avoid these paths on a road bike? (pic in comments) by Carpenter7 in cycling

[–]abnormal_human 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't expect to flat there if everything was set up right.

The tire pressure printed on the tire is generally a maximum. It's not really possible for us to tell you what pressure is optimal without understanding your tire size, rim size, and weight.

60psi is generally considered low for road. Unless you're running something on the wider side or tubeless and are not too heavy. You might have pinch-flatted..but still that curb cut looks pretty tame.

It helps to take some weight off of the seat and use your legs to suspend your body when going over bumps. Remember--most of the mass in the system is you, not the vehicle, so when you decouple yourself from the seat, your momentum is going to want to continue forward while the bike hops up beneath you, greatly reducing the stress on the wheels.

Road bike tires set up properly are sturdy. I ride through bigger road defects on nearly every ride without even thinking about it and see a flat tire less than once per 1000mi. When I do flat, it's always debris--nails or glass. I've never had a pinch flat, and I weigh 220lbs, so I'm the guy who should be seeing pinch flats.

I put 80/90psi into 28c tires at my weight, btw. I used to put a little bit more pressure into 25c tires. That's more than 60, but not like much more.

Chord DAVE by bunnydogwalking in headphones

[–]abnormal_human 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dave and LCD-4 are a great pair. I've spent many hours with those two.

If you want to explore upsampling, do it in software. More flexibility, much lower cost. Upsampling is a data->data transformation. Don't need to do it on $10k hardware with audiophile markup.