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crua9 commented on a post in r/freemasonry
crua9 1 point

Just to add on to what others have said. Do your home work on the lodges. There is something we call clandestine lodges. Not all of them are bad, but more than less they are looked as fakes. Also there is some that will scam you. Make sure the grand lodge in the state recognize the lodge. More than not, if the grand lodge is on this list and the GL recognizes the local lodge. Then it's safe to say it's legit https://www.ugle.org.uk/about/foreign-grand-lodges

The part that is bugging me is the

They both said they knew several people who would sign it

While this isn't unheard of, this is highly looked down on. The people who sign it should know you're a good person. More than less it's a way to make sure you're not a nut job or doing something stupid like dealing drugs on the side.

As far as your event, without knowing more I can't say 1 way or the other. But giving you don't have a federal record from it, then we all know accidents happen.

As far as the main question if they are recruiting you. For the most part everywhere there is rules of ask 1 to be 1. Because this is kinda stupid since most won't know if someone is a mason to start with. In many areas the rules are being relaxed to allow people to hint/ask you. Many times they can only ask you 1 time and that's it. That rule is in place within many areas since most don't know the limit of being annoying.

Now the why they are asking. Giving they know you, then it could be because of that. Otherwise I suspect the WM asked people to fill some chairs (I kinda doubt it's that).

My advice, see if the lodge has some public get together. Maybe a breakfast, a lunch, or some other public hang out. While not everyone will come, you will be able to get a feel for the lodge. You have to keep in mind each lodge can have their own personality. If you're still on the fence then simply ask to have a tour of the lodge.

What can being a mason get you. I found many will say it helps you become a better person. I kinda found this is BS since most walking in the door tends to be good to start with. What it actually gives you is a good group to hang around at the end of the day. Yes there is things you can learn, but most of that is on the internet to start with. So again, make sure you fit well with the overall group before you jump in.

aggriify 1 point

No painting, no sanding done depending on the size maybe 3-5$. Thats sold locally as shipping cost wouldn't be reasonable at these prices. I wouldn't put too much hopes into it. Buy the printer for yourself, to have fun exploring, to enjoy well finished prints, it's not a profit machine.

crua9 1 point

Well the thing is, the printer is $800, the multi material is $300, and so on. I'm not worried much about the filament. But the cost of just these things is a bit. I would like for the printer to pay for itself and everything around it within a good year or 2. So I'm aiming for somewhere in the $1,500 within that time. So it would need to make $62.50 a month for the 2 year time frame.

I feel that's a reasonable goal based on how much some parts sell

aggriify 1 point

That does sound reasonable and as long as you don't have outrageous expectations you won't get disappointed. Guess it would be way better to have colored printouts. The additional money's worth obviously is based on a lot of work. Maybe you find some dnd players looking to paint themselves anyways :)

crua9 1 point

Maybe you find some dnd players looking to paint themselves anyways

That's what I was thinking. My thought process was people like painting models anyways. That and I'm not really that good at it and don't have the setup for it to start with.

Giving I can get those models to actually work, I was thinking somewhere between $50 and $100 depending on things. With the head, there isn't really anything to paint since it's meant to be black anyways.

But in general, I'm aiming to making things that really wouldn't be painted to start with. I doubt I will make too many models like this.

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elint 1 point

No clue. I'm printing lack enclosure brackets and am just gonna run without sides 'til I get my mmu and tweak the build.

crua9 2 points

I looked over it again, and I'm not sure if the part on top moves. So there is only 1 line going down and I would just need to feed the unit itself.

I would have to do a bit more research, but this means I would just need to factor how big the unit is, how to plug it into the printer, and where to put the hole. I feel I'm going to have to 3D print some stands for lines going into the unit.

elint 2 points

I don't think you NEED to mount it on the printer, either. I wanna get my hands on it and see if I can just mount it somehow on top of my enclosure and cut one hole for the control/power cables and another hole for the filament tube. Then enclosure size won't be any different than the general Lack enclosure I'm planning on putting together.

crua9 2 points

I'm trying to get the size of the unit so I know where to plan on putting the unit and hole.

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crua9 commented on a post in r/GoogleWiFi
porksteaks 2 points

Same as what others are saying. I'm in IT and like to keep it simple at home, so have Google Wifi. I do have an Android app that tells me which of my three APs I am connected to at any point.

It works well with my 200 Mbps connection. Only thing is I wish the AT&T WiFi Calling bug would get fixed.

crua9 1 point

I do have an Android app that tells me which of my three APs I am connected to at any point.

What app is that?

One of the problems I'm having lately is trying to figure out which of the AP my security cameras are on.

porksteaks 1 point

Wifi Analyzer by Kevin Yuan

crua9 1 point
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matthew5025 2 points

/u/crua9 This is a Pricer Transceiver 40; you're right, it's used to update the Electronic Shelf Label (ESL) using IR.

You can see an example here.

crua9 1 point

Thanks. That would explain why I never seen one of these in my training before.

Every time I seen it I thought that was a funny looking AP. But after seeing an actual AP on the wall on another part of the store. I figure it was worth asking.

da_kink 1 point

Te 0 might just be a battery indicator.

crua9 1 point

Maybe. I wonder if it could be looking for co2

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onastyinc 1 point

Google WiFi will choose the optimal path.

4-3-2-1 is likely worse than 4-1. this depends on which radio is used for backhaul, availability/airtime, reachablity, on the radios etc etc.

I'd suggest looking into using Ethernet, MoCA, G.hn, for backhaul.

crua9 1 point

The problem is, I don't have an ability to run cables like that in this place.

And I understand it picks the "optimal" path. But as someone with a background in this stuff, it doesn't. Like it does if your number is below 6 or 7 AP. But when you start getting into those numbers or higher it 100% doesn't. It bottle necks all on the nearest AP to the base or the base itself. Keep in mind we are only dealing with a 2x2 MIMO, so it can easily start bottle necking depending on the layout.

crua9 commented on a post in r/3Dprinting
Shippu7 1 point

I am swapping filaments from TPU(flex) to wood fill. There are some extra steps to improve adhesion between foreign filaments, but that's a secret. Flex filaments are strange filaments that take a while to tweak though, so be prepared to run several tests at first. I recommend blue tape for adhesion, glues can be too uneven. Still not printing right? Don't be afraid to turn up the temperature.

Lastly and perhaps most importantly, if you want to print flex have a Bowden delta, like me, welcome to calibration hell: clogging edition.

crua9 1 point

I recommend blue tape for adhesion

Even for the powder coated plate for the MK3?

Shippu7 1 point

Haven't tried on powder coating yet, but I do know blue tape works, so if the powder coat doesn't, try that.

crua9 1 point

Thanks, I will have to keep that in mind.

One thing I'm going to do is try to make a bunch of test samples when I get new filament that I'm about to use. I'm not sure how to do it yet, but I seen where some of the samples you can get test the temp, speed, and so on in 1 go.So hopefully that will help

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ubermeisters 2 points

/r/3dscanning

http://goedhartvoordieren.nl/?page=r/3DScanning/comments/4r00on/request_atlas_scanner_review/

I'l save you some digging though, nothing a normal consumer can afford is worth it for scanners. Photogrammetry is way more reliable. even my old Galaxy S6 Edge camera, with AGI Photoscan ($150) made better looking, easier, and more accurate scans than any sub $10,000 scanner i've seen.

crua9 1 point

Thanks for the heads up. My sister had a kid and they made a plaster mold of the kid's hand. I wanted to make a 3D model of it so I can fix up the problems the plaster had. That and it would be much easier on everyone if I can print off a few copies for everyone. I most likely will end up doing what you said and just going with photo.

4
midnightsmith 2 points

Hey! I printed it out! Took a few pics and a video. You can see it here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t6rxq4wkphzz5wz/AAAQVMmMYrCQmllY16Bz6Fiwa?dl=0

Took around 3 hours with my settings.

Speed 60mm/s

Layer height 0.2

Wall speed 50%

Initial layer 90%

Infill 20% (any lower and that wall looks flimsy)

Fill pattern rectilinear

All using simplify3D as the slicer.

crua9 1 point

I forgot to ask, did you use supports at all?

crua9 2 points

Thanks. This made my day :D

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Phyber05 2 points

Beekeeper here: if you have PLA outside of water and UV contact, no worries about degredation. The propolis is indeed tacky, but not strong. It won't mess with you print....cover it, sure, but won't compromise it. Plus, propolis is antibacterial!

crua9 1 point

Plus, propolis is antibacterial!

That's what made me not really care about getting it smooth. My biggest worry was if it would have some negative effect with the bees, honey, or anything else. From my guess it won't, but you can't be too safe.

3dPrintedLife 1 point

It's worth noting that PLA will begin to deform around 45*C, not sure how hot the beehive can get but usually a car dashboard in the summer get plenty hot enough to deform PLA, so an enclosed beehive may get warm enough as well. PETG would be my recommendation, definitely safe enough, easy to print, and outdoor durability is no problem.

crua9 1 point

100 f at most. The highest I ever seen mine is 95 f. By 95 the bees are doing everything that they can to bring the temp down

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crua9 commented on a post in r/prusa3d
9
Saint_Clair 3 points

Textured sheets still arent available, pretty bummed out I bothered waiting for them and the second batch was bad too

[edit] spelling

crua9 2 points

Teztured sheets still arent available

I honestly can't understand this. If they are having problems with suppliers, then why not switch? That or why not add other suppliers

Are there just not that many there or something like that? Did they screw up on the contract and didn't include a mandatory amount? Like with the USA gov all the time in their contracts they have requirements. If the company doesn't follow the requirement, then the company actually has to pay back the gov some amount. And the gov at any time and for any reason can kill the contract with no financial backlash

Saint_Clair 1 point

The reason the US gov gets away with that is the contracts are often in the hundreds of millions, a 100K fine on a 300mil contract isnt too bad for most manufacturers

crua9 1 point

Apple and others do it too. Idk how big their fines are

morganz99 2 points

Welcome to the SmartThings ecosystem! I'm sure you'll grow to love SmartThings as I have.

To make your First Alert 2-in-1 Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm turn off your switch, follow the instructions below:

If you are using the SmartThings Classic app, the Smart Lights SmartApp would do exactly as you want. To set this up, open the app and click the "Automation" button at the bottom of the app. The click the "SmartApps" tab. Click "add a SmartApp", "SmartThings Recommends", then Smart Lights.

Also, do the same as above again, but set the trigger as "Carbon Monoxide".

Select the switch you would like to turn off, set it to "Turn Off", and select the trigger as "Smoke".

I believe the same can be done with the new SmartThings app.

crua9 2 points

Thanks a lot. That worked.

I was just about to start learning how to write something for the webcore app to do this 1 thing.

morganz99 1 point

I'm not familiar with webCoRE, but from what I've heard, it can be very useful with more involved setups, such as triggering something only if multiple conditions are net. One app you may like is the "If this, then that" app, also known as IFTTT. It allows for simpler configuration using the if this then that method. For your situation, you would put if smoke alarm triggered, then turn off x switch. However, I usually like to find SmartApps for SmartThings first, as you can also write your own or find many custom ones available online.

However, IFTTT apps do not run offline on the hub, if the internet is unavailable. I do not know if you are using the Hub V2, but if you are and have a power outage (and no internet), using native SmartThings apps usually still function, and you could make a battery powered siren to alert you, for example.

https://ifttt.com/

crua9 1 point

Yeah, it looks useful but it is a bit overkill for what I need. Basically I have a 3D printer coming in sometime in July. And I got a wireless fire alarm because 3D printers can get very hot. I figured if the alarm goes off then it can trigger event which shuts the power off from the printer. And while this probably won't stop the fire or the printer from messing up. It will hopefully keep it from getting worse. And if I'm lucky, if it's something like a electrical thing then there should be smoke before fire.

From my understanding this will be a bit overkill. However anyone who's dealt with fires can tell you that things can get out of hand less than a second.

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scryharder 1 point

Nice little tool. I think it would see better reception and use if named/used a bit more as a tracking tool of more than just ROI. Just because you've included so much in it.

I appreciate why you built it, I think far too many people overestimate their ROI and ignore costs, including the most expensive part of 3d printing: price of their time to design anything.

crua9 1 point

Ya this is more of a all in 1. For me I care more about ROI since I just want the printer to pay for itself and anything around it. But I don't know what I would call the tool.

I agree about the time to design things. Something like that could easily be added. Like in the item list I could add time it took to develop a model and to test it. Then have on the same sheet do a little math to figure how much $ wise it cost.

I don't get into that right now since I'm not aiming for my deal to become a full on business. Again I just want my printer to pay for itself and anything to deal with it. If it does become a business, then cool. But hopefully by half a year to a year the thing would pay for itself.

nuffced 1 point

Slic3r comes with dialed in filament profiles for the Prusa. That's a good place to start, then adjust your results to reflex your actual findings. Of course you must download it from their site.

crua9 1 point

Thanks for the heads up. I'm doing it for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT1Mnlq09oQ

nuffced 1 point

Very cool. You're going to love your Prusa!

crua9 1 point

Ya my biggest want is to make sure I'm spending as little time as possible fixing mistakes and have the printer pay for itself quickly as possible

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crua9 commented on a post in r/videos
crua9 1 point

He doesn't even have to have the proper paper work. Just with the owner giving permission legally allows him to do whatever. Like if the owner is cool with him living in the house for free, she can't do anything about it.

Unless there is some special laws in that given area. Other than the statement from the owner saying he can be there. All the other paper work only validates his story but not his legal right.

I like how this guy didn't take the road of telling you she is racist, and allowed viewers to put 2 and 2 together on their own. I wish more people did it like that.

gryzon 1 point

You can get a plug-in for Octoprint called "Firmware Updater" to flash directly from the Pi, though you might need to ssh in and manually install avrdude to use it. The settings should be atmega2560 and stk500v2

crua9 1 point

Thanks

spamshield 1 point

That feeling when you put the pi into the case you printed is amazing. Sure, it took some time to print, but buying a case would have set you back more.

crua9 1 point

I'm looking at cost savings. I'm finding the case to be $10 at most places. I'm sure making it is around $0.50

Im going to make my case out of transparent blue

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mrwobling 2 points

You won't need a fan, but you will need a good quality PSU capable of supplying more current than PSUs you might have previously used to run Raspberry Pis. I had some issues with the Pi becoming unresponsive until I upgrade from a 0.7A USB supply to using a 12W iPad charger. The 0.7A supply used to be adequate for other applications of older Raspberry Pis.

crua9 1 point

I never had a Pi before. I'm thinking about getting the first option here https://chicagodist.com/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-kits?variant=12184041226319

Is that not enough?

Raider1284 3 points

no you def dont need a fan for an rpi running octoprint. Normal heatsinks should work just fine.

crua9 1 point

Is that really needed?

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