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6 points · 1 day ago

I don’t even speak to my accountant in person. Most stuff gets discussed over the phone and files get shared via Dropbox.

I’d find an accountant that comes highly recommended in any city and call them up.

Definitely doesn’t need to be done in person.

Original Poster1 point · 1 day ago

Likely sell the house at a loss or close to the same. Townhouse prices dont change much. Whats the rule about cgt and best to sell within 6 years of renting?

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9 points · 1 day ago

Townhouse prices don’t change much and you’re losing 20k a year on it before tax.

What’s your goal with it?

Original Poster1 point · 1 day ago

Claim on tax on losses at the moment. Calculating with accountant now if still worth it.

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3 points · 1 day ago

I’m as much of a property lover as the next guy, but if there’s no long term growth expected, you really need to evaluate the situation.

I’d rather 20k in my pocket each year instead of a 7k tax deduction.

I got Evan engram for 5%

should I cash out early?

Right now, the stock market is going pretty well, so count yourself lucky that a downturn hasn't already happened and caught you by surprise.

Nobody knows what will happen in the next 2 years, or even if they know there will be a crash, when that crash will be.

Given that you plan to use the cash in the next 2-5 years, then the easiest way to hedge your bets would be to do reverse dollar-cost averaging.

So, sell a quarter of your shares now, then the remaining 3/4 over the next 3 years. If the market goes up, you'll get some of the gains. If the market goes down, you'll only wear some of the losses.

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15 points · 3 days ago

Solid advice.

Personally, I’ve been mad at myself for not pulling out of a stock and it’s ended up going pear shaped. On the flip side, I’ve never been mad at myself for getting out early with healthy profits.

7 points · 3 days ago · edited 3 days ago

I use trailing stops for this purpose.

I define what percentage I'm willing/can afford to lose, and set my stop at that percentage below the current price. That way, if the price increases, my stop price increases as well, but I also get some of the upside if it continues to rise.

I sold google at 560, Amazon at 600, BHP at 12, bitcoin at 300 and CSL at 35. All at a profit, but in every case I regret selling.

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I’ve been bitten before by trailing stops... momentary flash crashes that trigger sells... hasn’t happened often but twice is enough for me to avoid them. You could argue the stop was too tight, but I watch it daily anyways so I just act accordingly.


I'm in the middle of putting a proposal together to redo our current ELB architecture and migrate to ALBs to save on money / simplify requests. At the same time, security wants us to introduce WAF as we currently have nothing protecting our AWS apps at an app level (we use F5 APM on-prem).

2 question I have are:

1) With ALB, is it right to assume I can migrate all of our ELBs to a single ALB? Currently, we have,, etc. all with separate ELBs with different code running behind in each. Ideally, I'd use host based routing with different target groups behind the scenes to effectively have a single ALB to handle it all. ALB also supports SNI, so I can still use the same ALB even if there's different domains involved (which there may be). Are there any downsides to this approach or anything I'm overlooking?

2) With WAF, I can't quite wrap my head around the pricing and how it comes into effect with resources. I know it's based on web ACLs and per rule pricing, but is that multiplied by the number of ALBs its protecting or is it just based on web requests at that point? It makes sense if there's 1 ALB and only 1 set of ACL/rules, but if we needed to go the multiple ALB route, do the WAF costs increase in a linear fashion or does it only increase do to the increased web requests? I know multiple ALBs can be assigned to a web ACL, but wasn't sure how that worked in terms of pricing.



Keep in mind: ALB does not support plain TCP, just HTTP+SSL

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Original Poster1 point · 3 days ago

I think that’d be fine for us. I’ll keep that in mind though, thanks for pointing it out.

2 points · 3 days ago

AWS WAF isn't the only option. There are now a few vendors' virtual appliances available in the marketplace too

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Original Poster1 point · 3 days ago

I've seen some of those virtual appliances. I'm not sure if it's all of them, but they all seem to run in the $1+ / hour range. WAF is $15 a month based on the rule set and traffic we plan to run through it.

It may not be as fully featured, but we're going from nothing to something, we'll start there and then expand out if we feel its necessary. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

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6 points · 4 days ago

How is this even legal? So if the developer wanted to push up the prices in a development, I’d sign a back end deal with the developer for the developer to pay me a chunk of my money back? Win for me and win for developer, but prices are artificially inflated?

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Pretty much exactly that.

I find it odd because only last week did the price go up on the ED. so unless you worked in eastgardens, port botany or surrounding suburbs this wouldn't be common knowledge to you. I could be wrong. You could find a interest in toll prices and memories them all just like how you find interest in shutting people down who ask a simple question as "why is it closing"

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I agree with your premise that not everyone would know about the northwest link if they don’t live in the area, but your analogy is a bit off. Knowing about a major metro is one thing, knowing about the price of one specific toll is another thing.

I couldn’t tell you the price of the toll (only use it really when going to the airport), but I know there is a toll.

66 points · 5 days ago · edited 5 days ago

yeah fuck you too Gladys.

edit: "Defqon.1 is an annual music festival playing mostly hardcore techno, house and trance music."


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That comment was made by the article writer, not the premier... who are you saying is clueless?

Yes that is true, but only if your sql server instances are running on a dedicated host of yours (not dedicated instance). More information on the weird intricacies of Windows licensing can be found here:

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You just need to have SA and license mobility and you can use EC2 with default tenancy. Having dedicated alleviates the need for SA/LM and you can deploy as is.

Actually it’s pretty likely I’m reading it wrong. I’m going to follow up with our aws resources. Thanks for the discussion.

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Here is the relevant line that makes it pretty clear:

License Mobility allows customers to move eligible Microsoft software to third party cloud providers such as AWS for use on EC2 instances with default tenancy

I’d be curious if your account manager confirms.

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13 points · 4 days ago

Hawaii here. 7am football ftw. Though waivers are quite good since it clears at like 9pm.

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Australia checking in... gotta watch my 3 AM Giants games.

Just putting it out there - consider taking this opportunity to re-architecture to better fit the cloud model. Obviously, that will be a lot of work, so also consider building new EC2 instances and migrating data / applications to them.

You can use this to upgrade to new OS versions if on-prem was a bit older.

Mortgage interest is calculated the same way between the US and here. The big difference is the 15/30 year fixed mortgages available in the US vs. the handful of years in Australia for fixed, with most people going variable.

A huge differentiating factor however is the luxury of an offset. The US has no such concept, so having an offset really pays dividends when paying down a mortgage, and it will help to pay it off faster (even in those first 5 years if you have a healthy enough offset balance).

One thing to keep in mind is stamp duty. The US only has some minor closing costs (equivalent of council rates, lawyer fees, etc.) that doesn't really top $5,000. In Australia, you'll have lawyer fees, plus stamp duty dependent on the situation, which really adds up. That makes it even more prohibitive to buy/sell/buy in quick periods.

Another difference is in the US interest on the loan for your PPoR is tax deductible.

Also, I don't see why having an offset account would make a difference. In terms of calculating interest it's the same effect as if you made extra payments off your homeloan with the balance you held in the offset account .

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Flexibility. Once the money is in your mortgage, it becomes a huge pain in the ass. Sure there’s redraws, but that doesn’t really exist in the US except for home equity line of credits.

Also, if the place ever gets turned into an IP, having money in an offset will allow all of the interest rate to be tax deductible in the future, whereas with paying extra, that portion can no longer be considered a tax deduction when switched over.

Good question for an accountant!

On the 20K small business thing, it wouldn't be depreciated as such, it would be claimed in whole the first year.

If you want to spend $2,000 for the subscription, it's claimable assuming it's used to generate the income (which I assume it is).

30 points · 6 days ago

Did your parent have any life insurance? Possibly through super they were unaware of?

Electricity strikes me as the highest expense. That’s nearly $1000 quarter on who knows what. Try and figure out how you’re using that much and cut it down.

Mobile phones are next and shouldn’t be more than $75-80 a month combined.

Internet you can’t do much with, you’ll save maybe $20 a month switching.

Best of luck to you. I can’t imagine everything you’re going through, but I hope everything works out.

3 points · 7 days ago

You guys save 30k a year on 300k shared income... Jeez. No early retirement goals?

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14 points · 7 days ago

I feel like people aren't really reading. 300K is what we were making prior to her being made redundant. If she got a job that was lesser paying, then we'd be saving $30K a year. We were saving more than that (probably $60K a year) when she was at her previous job.

We have over $500K combined in our super/IRAs and we're both under 40. I think we're doing OK.

3 points · 7 days ago

Sorry, the 'still' threw me off. I thought you meant 'things haven't changed since she was made redundant' not 'we're still saving lots' :) my bad!

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Ha, no worries. She got a nice payout, so technically we're "still" saving lots as she was paid about 8-9 months worth of salary.

She's got an interview Monday - fingers crossed she gets it - pay isn't far off from what she was making, and that'd be 1 month off work against a 9 month payout. That would extremely accelerate our savings rate for the next 8 months, essentially earning 3 salaries during that period.

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I just ran NABs again and I think it might’ve gone up a bit - can’t remember the exact figures when I ran it years ago, but it seems higher (no way I’d buy something that much).

We borrowed about 70% of what that number was.

Ahead of schedule. This administration keeps on winning!


But if, instead of leaving it all in the offset accounts, OP paid the loans down to less than 250k, then they wouldn't lose anything?

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In theory, the mortgage outstanding would reflect the extra 350k, so if it were sold to another creditor, it would be less the 350k.

I'm not sure if that would be the case if the money was in an offset account. The loan and the offset are separate accounts. If OP had paid down the actual loan account then there would be no loan to sell.

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I was replying to Serpentine who’s question was if he had paid down the loan instead of keeping it in the offset...

15 points · 8 days ago

I have no first hand knowledge, but I think you’ll run into some people who can afford the increase and can’t be bothered moving. They’ll see the increase as a negligible inconvenience compared to the potential time and money of moving and not bother.

10 points · 8 days ago

IISCrypto is usually my go to tool. Not sure if it supports 2016, but I’d start there.

The tax free threshold of a redundancy payout is $10,399 base + $5,200 for every year of service. At 10+ years of service, that's at least $62,000 in tax free money. I don't know your salary, but let's say it's $100K.

Your gross salary is roughly $8,300 per month. At a minimum, you'll be entitled to * either 1 month notice or 1 month of pay in lieu of notice (let's assume PILO)

  • at least 12 weeks of pay for the redundancy portion
  • your long service leave paid out (at least 2 months)
  • any accrued holiday pay that you haven't taken

At a minimum, that's 24 weeks of pay, more or less (plus holiday accrual on top) at essentially tax free rates. That'll put your payout at approx $50K (on a $100K salary). Since normal pay is taxed, that payout equates to roughly 8 months worth of salary (and again, likely more if you factor in holiday time, which is taxed at a concessional rate).

In my mind, that payout is way too big to skip out on. Be realistic with yourself, and estimate how long it'd take you to get a new / equivalent job. If you think it'll take 8 months or longer, than consider finding work now.

The other option is to ask for the redundancy. Do your job search and try and negotiate it at the same time. It gives you a head start on the search and gives you your own time table to work with.

Original Poster1 point · 9 days ago

Thank you for taking the time to look at the practical aspects of this, it is very much appreciated! The figures quoted are somewhat close to my situation so it will help me to unpack what it would mean for me, and give me some potential leverage with the business when the time comes.

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My wife just went through this about a month ago. Granted I earn more, it’s still always a shock and we’ll be in negative monthly cash flow once the redundancy payout runs out (about 9 months worth of pay, similar to you).

She’s confident she can find a job in that timeframe, but it’s one of those things - it may take longer and it likely more less pay, but you do what you can.

The first thing I did once it happened was to go through every single line item of our budget and reduce every where we could. Phone bills were renewed for 12 months and changed to a much cheaper plan, we updated our child care subsidy percentage and got our day care fees reduced. We updated our rebate percentage with private health insurance and dropped coverage a bit lower. I re-negotiated rates with our electricity and gas provider and lastly, dropped the speed boost on our NBN package (this last one, the agent was kind enough to drop it from our bill but let us keep it at no cost for the remainder of our contract so we didn’t experience any degradation of service).

Probably things we should’ve done even before redundancy (some things we couldn’t), but it’ll help stretch those dollars a little bit further.

The Australian government guarantees up to $250,000 per person per institution. If you have more than 250k, a joint account increases it to 500k and if you have more than that, you can split it between CBA, ING, NAB, Westpac, etc and you’ll be covered.

I believe I read somewhere though the government only gaurentees up to a payout of like 20 billion. Which could be enough if one bank fails, but not enough if multiple banks fail.

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20bn per failed bank.

I think there’s close to 1T on deposit now in Australia. The big banks are likely too big to fail (where have I heard that before?), so in theory, it’d be the smaller banks covered. The big 4 make up a majority of the deposits with smaller institutions making up the rest and likely not hitting the 20bn cap.

We pay off monthly in full. Can’t understand people who don’t, but I’m sure there’s situations that arise that people have the intention of doing it but something comes up.

Our credit limits are super high - about 5x our monthly salaries (half of that is in AU cards the other half in US credit cards), but we’ve never accrued a penny of interest.

There may be a month where we spend more than we’ve earned and we’ve dipped into savings to cover it (e.g. pre booking a big holiday on top of normal expenses), but that’s a one off and we live within our means the rest of the time.

It’s purely for points and the float of keeping our money in our offset longer. If those 2 benefits didn’t exist, the last remaining reason would be fraud protection, which is getting fairly comparable on debit cards - I just prefer the old fashion debit cards are my actual money, so if there’s a problem, I’m out that until it’s resolved. Whereas with credit cards, I’m not on the hook unless I’m ruled against, which should be rare if it’s legitimate fraud.

32 points · 11 days ago

It is absolutely certain to be worth more or less in 30 days time.

I guarantee it.

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What do I get if they're equal?

3 points · 10 days ago

My astonishment.

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