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bump the temp up 10 degrees. they layers are too cool to properly fuse. this should smooth the surfaces once you get the plastic to flow right. also, slow down. it will take less time than reprinting a rushed print.

1 point · 53 minutes ago · edited 47 minutes ago

I am a big flashforge fan. my dreamers are work horses. for less a expensive option, my search led me to the anycubic i3 mega. worked so well I get another.

/r/flashforge

1 point · 3 hours ago · edited 56 minutes ago

before you tweak anything else, slow way down. by half.

Couple of sammies over at Philippe's then burn it off on Olvera... buy a leather belt. the smell of the leather stalls..

isolate the feet of the printer from the table/bench with rubber pads. test it with anything you can find.

That’s a conch

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TIL I have a case of the conches.

Moderator of r/gentlemanboners, speaking officially1 point · 9 hours ago

the spool is not empty. time to start that collection

She doesn't stop, just puts her hand out and does a 360

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if she was really pissed, my mom could do a 540. helluva thing to see. right before the stars.

Original Poster1 point · 21 hours ago

I only have a limit switch on one side of the bed ( the side it won’t come close to) the other side doesn’t have a switch or place for one to be

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a more important question, what happens when you home all axis?

Original Poster1 point · 21 hours ago

Homing it seems to work fine and brings the nozzle to the bottom left corner but then the extruded doesn’t go all the way forward

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is the limit switch underneath the back of the build plate clear?

have you had a successful print?

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Original Poster6 points · 21 hours ago

The few remaining issues I figure I can manage! Special thanks to /u/u407 , /u/Urban_Junkie , /u/kodiak931156 , /u/BillieRubenCamGirl , and /u/Annatar27 . It may have just been a few simple suggestions for my noob question but coming home after a long day of school to this print looking this much better than the last really made my day.

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thanks for reporting back. you should put a little message in the thread where these guys helped you so others will know what worked.

The way he tries to slap the bat away 😂😂

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that's a broken wrist flop.

2 points · 1 day ago · edited 1 day ago

voodoo and tea leaves.

you need a measuring device. calipers are dirt cheap. metal rules are cheaper.

which came first the calibration cube or the calipers? you print the cube then measure all 3 axis with calipers.

Original Poster1 point · 1 day ago

totally get this, but my calipers will be around a week (error in the order)
I wanna continue with my projects, but dont wanna have to wait a week before i continue.
I was thinking maybe a print which is designed to be the exact size of a coin, or debit card

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every print is designed to be an exact size. the only way to measure the exact size is with a caliper.

a penny is 19.05 mm in diameter so you could scale a calibration cube to 19.05 in your slicer, print it and compare to a penny on all planes.

what speed? slow down and maybe drop the temp by 5 or so. but slow down.

"Try new Colon Blow Power Crunch. Makes it's own gravy. Eventually."

4 points · 1 day ago · edited 1 day ago

you are going slow enough. based on where it is happening, above that z plane surface change, the filament flow is a little too cool. bump it up 5 or 10 degrees. let us know if it helps. I have found that surface changes like that occur when I am below the ideal flow temp for the filament. that can change on two spools from the same company, same color.

if you cannot find the metadata, make them at least take a selfie so you can see the camera in the picture so they don't send you an image from another camera. they can write the date on a piece of paper

I would rather buy a spool. nothing to learn there.

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