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2
Posted by
Robot Overlord
19 hours ago
Stickied postModerator of r/diysound

Got a technical or troubleshooting question but don't want to create a separate post? This is your thread. There is no such thing as a silly question here.

Imaginary bonus points for all great answers, too.

As always, we are built around sharing and helping others. Please be awesome to your fellow DIYers.

2
comment
10

Hi guys I’m brand new to wood working and I just ordered a pair of DIY c note mt bookshelf speakers that I wanted to paint. The speakers come with MDF for the cabinets and I wanted to give the speaker cabinets the look of the Martin Logan XT35. Not entirely sure where to begin, I would like it to have that black cherrywood color so I assume I need some kind of paint for the wood and to get the glossy finish would I use lacquer? My guess would be not to just spray paint a gloss finish over the cabinets. I’ve never worked with wood before and I figured this would be a fun project to start with. For the front of my speakers I planned on doing a high gloss black piano finish so I assume it’s the same process as the rest of the cabinet just with black instead? Any tips and insight is greatly appreciated.

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18 comments
5

So I want to build my very first speakers and I've chosen to start with a 2-way configuration. For this I selected the Dayton Audio DC130B-4 woofer. The specs says it has a frequency range from 50 to 5000 Hz. I later on start using WinISD but in the software the graph shows a completely different frequency range. I don't know what's wrong or if it's even wrong and I hope someone can help me with this. EDIT: A screenshot of what the graph looks like: https://imgur.com/a/FBnFSGh

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3 comments
112

I’ve been building audio for about 50 years, and I still enjoy it

immensely. My first paycheck from audio was in 1972 doing R&D at

ESS, of Heil fame. My first commercial amplifier was the Threshold 800A

in 1975, and the very latest are the XA25 from Pass Labs and the SIT-3

from First Watt. Along the way I designed about thirty products for

Threshold, eight for Adcom, forty for Pass Labs, fifteen for First Watt,

and wrote something like eighty articles, mostly DIY projects.

I’m still not worn out, so go ahead, ask me anything...

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125 comments
43

Imgur album

Paul Carmody's original design

This is made out of 1/2" cherry and finished with mineral oil / beeswax polish. I've pointed the woofer down which decreases the height but increases the depth in order to keep the woofer enclosure at the specified 6 L volume. Overall dimensions are 5 3/4" tall x 15 1/2" wide x 10" deep (compared to 8" t x 14 1/2" w x 6 1/2" d in the original design). I used the Dayton DTA-2.1BT amplifier which is incorporated into the woofer enclosure.

One error I made is not completely sealing the amplifier into the enclosure; it communicates directly with the woofer enclosure, and air can be heard and felt whooshing around the edges of the amplifier. The amp sits pretty snugly inside the cutout in the baffle and I used foam weatherstripping around the edges, but apparently that wasn't enough. I'm going to try to seal it better with caulk or something from the inside, accessing the inside through the woofer cutout in the bottom.

Another small regret is not having a good way to access the back of the DTA-2.1BT, which has two separate aux inputs in addition to bluetooth. That means the only way to feed audio to the boombox is through bluetooth. Not a huge deal for me, but it does limit things a bit. I briefly considered unsoldering the entire back panel of the amplifier and incorporating it directly into the back of the boombox but there are 25+ tiny PCB connections and I elected not to run the risk of frying an $80 amplifier.

Overall, I love the way this sounds. The bass is very impressive for its size and it easily fills a medium-large room and rattles the windows a bit. This is the third design of Mr. Carmody's that I've built (I've also made the Overnight Sensations and Classix II), and I continue to be impressed and amazed. They are all fantastic.

Thanks for looking!

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17 comments
2

I have a pair of old Sony SS-AV55 tower speakers (2 6.5in woofers and 1 1in tweeter per tower) that I have been thinking about building a new enclosure for to turn them into more bookshelf sized speakers. I have never built speakers before so I'm a little lost as to where to start. Could someone point me in the right direction as to where and how to start planning my build? I do have access to a plethora of woodworking tools, so actually building it shouldn't be an issue, I just need help with the design. I have also been toying with the idea of building a new crossover but finding the speaker specs has proven difficult so I may just keep the original. But I guess the most important question is would this be worth the effort?

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4

And by "it comes together" I mean this [http://imgur.com/D2ZZFMO] . Initial tests sound really nice! I feed it with a regulated Psu I built myself which uses the lt1083 for 7A of maximal current. I'm gonna test it out with different supply voltages. By now I only tested 35V and the LM3886 get around 60-70°C even on that beefy PC heasink with loud, but not ear blowing levels of volume. I think 32 or even 30v should do it (I have a 30Vx2 230VA Toroid - > 42V DC) , but then I`ll have the problem of the regulators overheating... And I really don't want to buy a smaller Toroid.

What temperatures are safe with this chip? In the datasheet I've read it can handle up to 85 °C, but a constant high temperature can't be good for this ... I'll update when I've got a case for it.

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14 comments
3

Im wondering if there is any merit to building a two woofer, one Tweeter tower where the two woofers (4ohm) are wired in series for 8 ohm, and one woofer is sealed and the other is ported. Is this a stupid idea? I thought it would be neat to have one go a little deeper and one "punchier" so to speak. Tell me why this is a bad idea and what would be better.

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8 comments
13

Hey everyone, I'm repurposing a old and broken stereo players' speakers to make a boombox Bluetooth speaker. I have all of the tech ready all I need help with is figuring out the best volume for the box I need to make for them. I'm trying to use this website https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/ But I don't know my speakers' Equivalent Volume (Vas), Free Air Resonance (Fs), Total Q (Qts), and Resonance Frequency (Fb).

The only information I could find on the speakers is the part number: the service manual of where they came from http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/audio/CFD-S300%20sm.pdf, and this info (Frequency Response: 89Hz-20.5KHz, Full-range speaker diameter: 103mm, Impedance: 3.2 Ohms) on some guy selling the repurposed version of them on ali express.

This is exactly what they look like

https://www.dhresource.com/0x0/f2/albu/g5/M01/9E/25/rBVaI1g37s-AD8ZrAAGZFs4AmcU439.jpg https://i.gyazo.com/818485e96c65f4eaf5b4ca748590b875.png https://i.gyazo.com/307ab96f0f40809c2325962a38bc7390.png

Sorry for the bad quality pics, they're the only ones I could find.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

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8 comments
0

Sounds are to represent an instrument's range, so I don't need anything complex. Any suggestions?

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3 comments
10

EDIT: I've just been an idiot discharging the smaller capacitor (which is simulating the long button press) by pressing the button and shorting it by doing that. Apparently, that was the problem (and a dumb idea in general)

I bought a bluetooth audio dongle (here) for my speaker project and was looking for a work-around for turning it on since it should turn on when power is provided. I followed this guide and eventually got it to work (Capacitors: 10V 220µF, 10V 1000µF) but now every time I pair it with a device and then cut the power to turn it on again it can't establish a connection with the dongle, the only way to connect again is to remove the pairing and pair again. My guess is that it has some sort of ID stored which would have been saved by the power provided by the battery but will now be lost when power is cut. Is there anything I could do or is this just a lost hope?

Another question: The mic seems to not work with Windows 10 or my Android device, I do not know whether it is just a setting blocking this or the dongle itself.

https://i.redd.it/qxn886t1uca11.jpg

https://i.redd.it/sack8ts3uca11.jpg

PS: I actually don't know if this belongs here or in /r/AskElectronics so it might be off-topic

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4 comments
9

How difficult is this to do?

Can you drill into a ceramic jar?

Looking at turning a ceramic jar with the wooden top and silicone seal to make a speaker from it. Can you drill a hole into that for the wires?

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8 comments
1

Does anybody have experience with using existing surround sound receivers (ubiquitous in home movie theaters) as external sound arrays for installations and the sort? I figure that the sound equipment is everywhere and armed with the right tools it could be a great way of doing multichannel stuff.

I am interested in any resources considering the following:

  • real time open source AC3 or DTS encoding tools -- this would be used for sending encoded 5.1/7.1 streams to an external decoder on the surround reciever
  • working with S/PDIF as a digital output for 5.1 (there is one on my soundcard--komplete audio 6--that seems to only want to send stereo PCM)
  • HDMI audio as a sound output for multichannel PCM within an OSX framework
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6 comments
3

I got the NS-590 speakers from midwest audiofest for $50 on a whim. All of the drivers work except this one tweeter. From what I've seen the tweeters are beryllium, which makes them pretty coveted. Is there any way that I could repair it without destroying it? One of the wires looks like it burnt up, and it came off with a slight tug while I was trying to reposition it. I'm a novice at soldering, but I would like to get these speakers working.

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Hi!

I'm starting the design of my DAC/AMP based on the PCM2903C (for the dac), and the amp part based in the Objective 2. I'm doing this more with the purpose of learning than actually getting a super good dac/amp.

I'm not an expert so I thought that a good place to start would be a product made by, well, experts. So I download the datasheet of the PCM2903C evaluation board and saw that they placed an OPA2353 active low pass filter in the output.

While wandering around in the TI website I saw a equivalent model to the OPA2353, that seems to be better spec'd, while costing the same in Mouser, the OPA2365.

Questions were raised when I noticed that the OPA2353 datasheet stated that it is unity-gain stable, leading me to the thought that it makes some sense, since the active filters should be (inside a desired range of Hz) unity gain stable, right?

On the other hand, the OPA2365 does not claim such a thing, and furthermore, it recommends having a pulldown resistor in the output, connected to an additional negative supply when operating as a buffer, even though, said resistor is not included when the OPA2365 is acting as an active filter.

Here's the schematic

My questions is then, can the OPA2365 act as a LPF without the pulldown resistor without deteriorating the performance of my DAC? It seems to be an direct improvement of the OPA2353, while costing the same.

Or should I be using an different op amp as a LPF? Do you guys recommend any?

Thank you for your time! :D

PS: I posted this exact post in the diyAudio forums. If you are seeing this for the second time, I apologize. It's not my intent to waste your time.

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4 comments
5
Posted by
Robot Overlord
7 days ago
Moderator of r/diysound

Got a technical or troubleshooting question but don't want to create a separate post? This is your thread. There is no such thing as a silly question here.

Imaginary bonus points for all great answers, too.

As always, we are built around sharing and helping others. Please be awesome to your fellow DIYers.

5
9 comments
72
Posted by
and woodworking disasters
8 days ago
72
5 comments
5

According to CSS, it’s basically ruler flat to 55Hz, and /u/strategicdeceiver did an awesome review that basically confirmed those measurements. However, this post has measurements at the end of the imgur album and the graph is somewhat alarming.

The kit used by CSS / sent out for reviews/demos has the “superior crossover components” whereas the kit used in the post reference above uses the standard crossover components. Do you think the “superior” crossover would have such a dramatic difference in measurements? Or is it likely a measurement issue?

Want to make sure these are really solid kits before I drop cash on 3 sets. Thanks for any insight!

5
3 comments
1

Hello guys,

First, I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to ask for help on this subject. It's just that I've been lurking here for a long long time and I think this might be the perfect place to find help.

So, my car turns off my player when I turn on the ignition. Usually it's not a problem since I'm still starting th e car up and haven't decided on songs, etc. The problem is that I drive a manual transmission car and sometimes I let the engine die and need to turn it back on. When I do it, it takes a long time for my bluetooth to pair back and the music to start playing again. I can't just stop paying attention to traffic so it is quite a pain in the end.

I was thinking about some kind of circuit that would disconnect the speakers and just have a simple big-ass capacitor to continue power supply to the head unit while I'm turning the car back on.

I used to know a little (very little) electronics almost a decade ago but now I've forgotten pretty much everything. Any help you guys can come with will be much appreciated.

The car I drive is a Toyota Etios and my head unit is a Pioneer DEH-4450BT.

Thank you very much!

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6 comments
22

I just finished my first build of the DIYSG S2000 MTMs. Unfortunately, when I went to give them a demo, it sounded really muddy as if it was underwater. Here is a little clip that simulates what I'm hearing (didn't take an actual recording, but it's pretty close.) I'm running them through a Denon AVR-S710W. I built the cabinets to the specs defined on the website (port length, size, etc). Spoken word (male news cast) was completely indecipherable... sounded like alien gibberish. Music sounded like it was underwater. I think the trouble is coming from the woofers. The tweeter seems to be clear and crisp. The same performance was coming from both the left and right channels. During my test, I unplugged my old center channel and subwoofer.

Since it's my first build, I wouldn't be surprised if I screwed up the crossover. However, since the tweeter seems to work correctly and the woofers are trying to play the lower frequencies as expected, I'm not sure.

Any help in diagnosing the problem would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Updated SoundCloud link.

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22 comments
5

I am looking to make a stereo for work that I would be able to change parts out when they die/wear out. In the past I’ve had to throw out boom boxes and stereos entirely because one component would get damaged beyond repair. I hope this idea has at least a little validity, but I need some guidance.

So far I have looked up:

Pyle Amp

Two 10” Speakers 60w RMS 8 ohm

In wall speaker wire

qpower 8” dual sub box

I’m unsure of what other small components I’d need for wiring, but I hope this could work. Any help I could get is appreciated.

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10 comments
2

Like the title says I need a battery pack to complete my build.

Qualifications

So if you guys have any product recommendations or general advice on how to got about this like: Is there a single product that can meet all my qualifications? Would I be better off buying batteries and creating my own battery pack? Do I need to build a charging circuit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated (as I am fairly clueless). Thanks!

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4 comments
2

Hi! I'm planning on making a DAC/Amp combo, mostly as a learning project. I'm still relatively new to this, so the PCM USB converters line from TI looks super attractive, since I don't need to have USB-to-I2S chips etc.

While comparing the different chips, I noticed that, usually, the 3.3 V (i.e PCM2903C) line has better THD/SNR/DR values on the DAC compared to the 5V (i.e PCM2912A) line. My question is if the better values on the 3.3V group is due to simply the voltage difference (which would mean that the different chips would perform the same if they ran at the same voltage) or if they simply perform better. I couldn't really find an satisfying answer doing a search in Google so I came here to ask you guys.

Thanks in advance!

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13 comments
2

Alright, so one of my father's coworkers was upgrading his speakers and knew that I was into music, so he sent me the old ones. According to him they work fine he just wanted to upgrade. They look a little old but in fine condition, no holes in the cone or dust cover, just a little dusty. He packaged them very nicely even though they were delivered by hand.

I recieved two 12in, 250 watt, 16 Ohm, speakers. I plan to build a box for them and hook them up to my PC if possible. I know I will have to buy wood to build a box, I know I will need a driver of some sort, and I know I will need to do a little wiring at some point. This is where my knowledge ends so I came here for direction.

What kind of driver would I need to purchase? What kind of wood would I need to buy? Are there and guides or resourses that you could recommend?

Any and all feedback is appreciated!

EDIT: Pictures - https://imgur.com/gallery/ZldM58j

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8 comments
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