I was selling a Starrett Athol vise I was restoring when I was contacted by a guy who hauls scrap for people. He said he had a vise for sale and was wondering if I was interested. It was a 1970 6” Wiltomatic! Long story short and $50 later it was mine. All 146 lbs of it!
A little history:
The trademark for “wiltomatic” was filed in 1953 and granted in 1954. The same year as the patent.
This was a vise geared toward manufacturing. It acts just like a normal Wilton Bullet Vise except it has a hydraulic cylinder on the tail section. This hydraulic cylinder when activated pulls on the nut of the vise and can clamp up to 6900 lbs (6” model). What you do is manually set the clearance of the jaws to about 1/8” and then to clamp you activate a pneumatic pedal. This pedal sends air pressure to a hydraulic booster pump that increased pressure to about 1600 psi! Total stroke of the unit is 1/2”. Let go of the pedal and it releases the part.
And the best part video of it in action using just air:
I’m currently looking for the pump (part number 4745-1 or 4745-2) and the pedal, so if you have one or know someone with one, let me know.
I chemically induced a blackish patina on a copper necklace- but it rubs off super fast, mostly onto my neck, and so any ideas on how to keep my neck from turning black would be great. I’ve already tried beeswax and all that did was make it hella sticky. Thanks guys
I'm referring to the ubiquitous schlage house keys in the USA, nothing high-security. I extracted the key code with calipers and I have a DRO so I'm fairly sure I can hit all the dimensions close enough, but I'm wondering what kind of tooling would be easiest for getting the angles?
Would you mount the blank vertically in the vise and then use some kind of triangular side cutter with the proper angle?
This might be the totally wrong subreddit to poke my head into, as I'm not a metal worker myself. I am in need of one, though.
I'm looking to get a surround created for my fireplace. Do I just google around for metal shops in the area and ask them what ideas they have to help me fit a surround to help the fireplace look flush? I don't know if there are any shops that sometimes specialize in metal working for homes/home decoration.
Got some stainless steel laser cut with varying designs and it has dross that is very hard to grind as some pieces are hard to get at. It also just seems to be a very hard material along the edge of the cut. Is there a easy way to deburr the edges without taking fine points off.
Is there a list of bend radius for material thickness width, bits were cut from 2mm (way too thick) and had one break and another twist rather than bend. Parts at bending area are twice 3-4mm wide.
I have 20 or so empty LPG cylinders I’m going to be making into bbqs, smokers etc.
I’ll be purging them by filling with water, but wondering what’s the best way to rid them of the residual Mercaptan?
Should I just burn it out?
I'm currently doing my A levels in the UK (16-18) and I am doing Product Design. My project is a metalworking station with storage underneath and working surface on top.
One thing I need for the research and development of this project is to interview 2 people about the need for this project. One of which needs to be a user of a large scale hobbyist workshop, and the other of a small scale professional workshop.
It would only take 5 minutes and I would just send a list of about 10 questions to you to find out your views. A few photos of your workshop and a couple of sentences on your situation would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance, any replies are welcome :)
I would like to know how I would go about casting small gears. I looked up some videos, but most of them show either half the process, with the gears already made, or they aren't made of metal, it's silicon. When I say 'small' I mean something between one to two inches (something like this), they will be used in servo motors.
My setup is a clay bloomery, with a japanese box bellows for airflow and charcoal as fuel. The metal would be aluminum.
Long story I have a 1 inch round 2.8 inch long 7075 round stock I have that I wand a hole drilled through the center but any time I’ve tried the bit walked. Is there any way of making a jig or something to do this? I think it may be important to note I do not have access to a lathe unfortunately.
Edit: it might be helpful to note that I’m trying to drill through the face not the round part
Edit2: my concern isn’t it walking on the face but rather it walking whilst drilling. It keeps drilling center on the entrance face but off center on the exit.
The shop I work at has a big hydraulic shear, a bandsaw, and a hand operated cold saw but I was wondering if titanium would wreck or seriously dull any of the blades. I don't really care too much about the band saw or cold saw, we have a huge stockpile of extra blades for them. But I am worried about dulling the shear. Am i just being paranoid?