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It could be an issue with the handle OR more likely (in my experience) there is an issue with the locking mechanism that's on the lower part of the rails hidden inside the back of the body of the suitcase. Does it specifically feel like the handle mechanism is broken? If it doesn't then I'd see if you can find the retention pin lower on the handle rails and see if it's stuck in place. If it moves easily THEN I'd think about taking the handle apart. Since the plastic holding the screw is stripped there's no good way to remove the screw other than drilling it out.

Original Poster1 point · 18 days ago

I plan on replacing it with a regular bolt so that's not an issue. So you're saying drilling would be the typical way to remove it rather than cutting off one head? I have a small drill press but the rivet is attached to a whole car seat so I'll have to figure out a way to secure it. I might be able to remove the rail assembly it's attached to.

Appreciate the info, I realize I sound like a noob here but I've only got one shot at this and I don't want to mess it up.

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Per what the other guy said you can drill it out. Start with a smaller bit and work your way up to larger ones so you don't drill out material from the rail too. If you have a stepped drill bit that would be a good option too.

Cool thing! However, you should add radiusses to the bottom of the teeth as the geometry concentrates stresses in corners and adding a bigger radius makes it less likely that the tooth will break off.

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Original Poster2 points · 18 days ago

Thanks and good advice 👍

How much lead would you expect to get into your food from this part?

I mean, we can break that down. How much lead is in a typical brass nozzle, and how much of the nozzle would make it into this part, and how much of this part would you ingest?

Let's do the math:

Brass is typically 2% lead, so for an 85g nozzle, that's 1.7g. Okay, that's substantial. Don't digest your whole nozzle.

Brass nozzles usually last around 30 - 40 kg of filament before they wear out. Let's make an assumption here, that "wearing out" means the nozzle has gone from a .4 mm diameter to .5mm diameter. For a 13 mm length nozzle, that's about 3.7 mm^3 of brass, or 32 milligrams of lead. As that's printed over 30 kg of PLA, that means your PLA is 1.06 mg Pb / 1 kg PLA. This part is what, ~10g? That puts 11 µg of lead in it.

How much would you ingest? That I don't really know. But it doesn't really matter. At 11 µg, if you ingested the whole piece, and somehow digested it all rather than pooped it out, that'd put 11 µg of lead in your 5.5 liters of blood, or 11 µg / 55 dL, or 0.2 µg/dL.

So consider that, and then consider that you're not ingesting the whole piece, likely only milligrams of it, which would make that rather inconsequential, probably on the order of nanograms. Also consider that this whole calculation implies 100% transference of the lead in every stage, which likely isn't the case. You know how PLA smells when it's melted? That's because it aerosolizes when it's melted, which, if your nozzle is leaking into the PLA, would also aerosolize. Etc.

While no levels of lead have been found safe, if you're concerned about that level of lead, you really need to look at your entire environment, and consider that you probably don't know what types of metals are manufacturing everything else you put in your mouth. We're currently getting an average of 1 µg/dL according to OSHA.

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Original Poster1 point · 18 days ago

Good explanation Scott! That's generally been my approach to figuring out risks too; break it down.

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2 points · 1 month ago

ok. wrap it in cloth then clamp the F**ker?

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Original Poster1 point · 1 month ago

That was a great idea. Unfortunately, it still managed to slip out several times -_- and I clamped the hell out of it.

can you heat the nut?

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Original Poster1 point · 1 month ago

Yeah I'll give that try plus jamming some plastic in the gears

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2 points · 1 month ago · edited 18 days ago

That's awesome I had the same clock as a kid so that thing must be like 20+ years old. The first thing I would do it check the specific wires that run from the button to the circuit board to make sure the soldering hasn't obviously cracked or come loose. The second thing would be to test with a voltmeter to see whether or not there is current. If the button's input wire is receiving current but when you push the button the output isn't sending it then the mechanical switch in the button is probably broken (they don't last forever and 20+ years isn't bad). If it's none of those things and it's legitimately an issue with the circuit board that is a way bigger problem and may be a huge pain to fix.

Original Poster1 point · 2 months ago

It looks like it's may be some type of bacterial infection but can anyone confirm or deny?

Leaf miners. They can be killed in the leaf by squishing the active end of the trail. As there are several different types of insects that have leaf mining larva, you can place an infected leaf in a ziplock and check back every day to discover the adult insect behind your outbreak. Some types require to drop to the soil to finish developing into an adult. Best way to deal with those ones is by using bed covers to prevent adults from emerging from the soil, and larvae from reaching the soil to finish development.

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Original Poster1 point · 2 months ago

Wow thanks lonelytax, looks like you're right. I'll try some of that stuff. My zucchini plant right next to the beets has a similar problem (but only on the edges of the leaves) I wonder if it's related.

Original Poster2 points · 3 months ago

While digging up a planting bed near my fir trees I found a few of these. They don't have a thick skin like some of the false truffle descriptions but some of them were semi liquid inside and smelled off. I'm guess the smell is a pretty clear indication but figured I would see what you guys thought.

If it was near a fir tree I'd disagree with the people IDing as Melanogaster sp.- Maybe Elaphomyces granulatus? I'm just a sophomore mycologist so take it with a grain of salt but that genus tends to be directly affiliated with conifers...

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Original Poster1 point · 3 months ago

Seems like a good guess too but I think the rind on the elaphomyces granulatus is noticeably thicker than the one I found.

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I know this is an old question but the answer is no. Zpool doesn't currently support mining with the Blake2b mining algorithm which is what the A3 is setup to mine.

TheRantis commented on
r/siacoinPosted by

I'm having the same issue. I've filed 3 support tickets and the response is a canned piece of crap: "Sorry for your issue. Our engineers are currently working to resolve the issue."

Just like OP my SC deposit has been in limbo for a month.

Funny! I just found some growing in my backyard this year in north Seattle this year too.

That looks like it may be one of the Amaurobiidae.

Comparison pictures one, two, three, four

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Original Poster1 point · 3 months ago

Yep seems like a likely fit. Thanks for finding! I've never seen one of these in western Washington before.

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Looking to build a mineral oil PC for fun but mineral oil seems like it can vary wildly in price. Does anyone know a place either local to Seattle on the internet that has good prices on mineral oil?

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like this one? I didn’t even know they existed so I don’t know. I don’t know what a reasonable price for mineral oil would be but heres 5 gallons of it

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Original Poster1 point · 4 months ago

Similar yes. Puget stopped selling that though due to some patent trolls.

$18/gallon send pretty expensive but I'm guess a lot of that is shipping cost for the weight embedded in the price. That's part of the reason I'd prefer local.

Good find! What state are you in?

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Original Poster3 points · 4 months ago

Washington; near Seattle

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Started a print and came back to find the nozzle had stopped mid-print and there was an error on the screen that said "stopped - heater error". I'm trying to diagnose the issue but I need some help.

Here's what I've checked so far:

  • Thermistor works because temperature is being read correctly
  • Heating cartridge shows 10 ohms resistance
  • Pins from the extruder board to the heating cartridge read 1.3 volts and 0.9 amps (this seems low to me but I don't know what it's supposed to be)
  • All connections to the extruder board seem well connected

What other steps should I take and does anyone have any advice?

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3 points · 4 months ago

On that printer, I'd say the ribbon cable connection to the hot end came a little loose during the print.

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Original Poster1 point · 4 months ago

Thanks I'll give it a look

Did you try turning it off and on again?

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Original Poster1 point · 4 months ago

Yes :) I also tried talking at it nicely and when that didn't work I tried shouting at it.

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So I'm currently running Awesome Miner with my GTX 1080 and it seemed to fine on all of the benchmarks other than X17. However, when the miner switches to some random (but consistent) algorithms like Tribus the mining will run for a period of time and then then computer will spontaneously restart; no blue screen, no error, just as if I'd manually hit the external reset button. As far as I can tell it's not a heat issue; the GPU stays at about 68C and the CPU at 60C. I'm running on a Corsair HX750 which theoretically should be more than enough to drive a single card. I did end up getting a second card (same make and model) so I could mine more and that seems to have made the issue worse and bleed into previously safe algorithms. I would think that maybe it's a power issue with two cards but it doesn't make sense that it would be a power issue with just the one card. I'm really baffled by the crashing and I'm not sure what additional debugging steps I should take. Any suggestions?

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Check the event viewer if you're using windows. It should show some errors before the crash and that may help you start to narrow it down.

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Original Poster1 point · 6 months ago · edited 6 months ago

I'll give it a look when tonight. Thanks for thanks for the suggestion!

Update: I just took a look and saw this Kernel-Power >> The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.

I'm guessing my PSU is faulty; thanks for the event log suggestion.

I'm going to guess that your OC settings (if you have them) might be a bit too much for those particular algos.

Mine run all day on equihash with +200/+700 but the miners will crash when they encounter more core-specific algos. I have to back the core down a bit to keep them stable.

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Original Poster1 point · 6 months ago

Sadly the crash happens without OC :(

2 points · 1 year ago

Yes, and I absolutely love them. They are hard to grow from scratch, so you are one lucky Redditor!

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Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

Doh! I assumed they grew as readily as blackberries. I pulled all but the strongest cluster of canes. If you happen to be near Seattle you're welcome to have the others as transplants ;)

Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

Awesome, thank you!

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A friend and I are trying to figure out the feasibility of a product in the digital audio space-- we have a well-defined concept, a few sketches we've made ourselves, but neither of us have experience with actually creating electronics products.

To make things difficult, most people who do have experience creating electronics products don't have experience with things like decoding S/PDIF, digital to analog conversion, etc. (Stuff more complicated than wiring up a guitar pedal effect, or an analog amp.)

This is a product that we're sure has decent demand but (as of right now) does not currently exist.

Do any of you have experience in this area and would be willing to talk to us about it? Or know of good way to find someone with the above experience?

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[deleted]
2 points · 1 year ago · edited 1 year ago

There are professors that you can contact who will design for a consulting fee. I can direct you to one if you'd like. Designing anything from scratch is pretty hard and takes quite a bit of knowledge.

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Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

Define expensive :)

yeast can opportunistically colonize your intestines

That sounds really weird. I've never heard of this buy I don't see why not. What happens? The runs? Will the gut microbes eventually recover?

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It's a condition called Auto-brewery syndrome or if you prefer Brewer's Gut. Basically when the yeast sets up shop it converts sugar you eat into alcohol in your intestines so get unintentionally drunk or buzzed from eating high sugar foods.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-brewery_syndrome

Why does your picture look like it has an instagram filter on it?

Aside from that the one on the right looks pretty decent. You might consider increasing you retraction a bit since it looks like there's a bit of stringing inside the cabin.

Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

Designed this new fan shroud in OnShape and exported to STL. The model's geometry looks solid both in OnShape and the normal placement in S3D. Any ideas why the print plan is generating this hole? There are actually a few holes like this all over the object.

Is it one part, or multiple parts in OnShape?

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Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

I think you can only export one part at a time from Onshape

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Recently got my printer and it worked fine the first couple prints doing PLA then PETG, but now it has started doing an odd behavior printing PETG. It'll home to the corner, prime the filament, extrude a bunch of coiled filament (seems normal), then when it goes to print it basically won't push any filament out of the hot end, or will do so at at such a low flow rate that it only lays down wisps. The hot end is supposedly at 230c, 0.100mm layer height, and the extrusion multiplier is a 100%. Any thoughts on what's going on?

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i've seen the small beads but it usually starts extruding a few cm into the skirt, try letting it run a little longer if you're cutting the print immediately

it's not the opposite problem, where you're too close right?

i also second trying a bit of a larger first layer height to try to get it to stick, maybe move your z axis up until you extrude but don't stick, then slowly move it down until it sticks

disclaimer is i'm using a .8 nozzle on my taz5 so my first layer height is like a full .5 millimeters lol

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Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

If it's starting a few cm into the print is it a heat problem or maybe an extrusion gear grip problem? Maybe I'll try making the skirt have a few more rings to see if that fixes the issue. It's strange that it just spontaneously started happening. Would moist filament cause an issue? I realized that I had left a nearby window open on accident which could have allowed more moisture in the air to get to the filament.

i'm not sure to be honest, i see the same thing as you do: extrude some filament manually or via computer instruction start printing the skirt skirt doesn't start off printing, but will start after moving a few cm along it (usually i have to remove a string / blob of petg)

i think i read somewhere that it might be due to pressure (or lack thereof?) on the filament being extruded but i mean ... your guess is as good as mine

this is also something that isn't just a petg issue for me, my PLA also takes a couple cm of not extruding the skirt to kick in too, but works fine when the print gets past that point

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Original Poster1 point · 1 year ago

Played with settings last night and let it run a bit longer around the skirt and it worked out great; had a fairly successful benchy and printed a new fan shroud for the printer. Thanks for the input guys!

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